The reviews have the Avids as a top notch brake. Wondering if for Heavy DH use users find thay have to adjust there brakes a lot ? I currently have Hayes HMX -1's w/ Sintered pads and find I need to fiddle with the brake adjustment after a few runs. Thanx
Avid mechanicals for DH ?
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not the greatest brake, but worlds above the hayes mechanical! if you are on a budget, the avid calipers are the way to go. you won't even need new wheels or levers. do a nice new set of cables and housing though-full housing to the rear.keen said:
Not on a budget but like the simplicity of mechanicals. I actually have a set of Juicy 7's and BB7's in the boxes. I purchased the Hydro's because I grew tired of the constant pad adjustments on the Hayes. I am not into big power i'd prefer superior modulation. The Hayes offered great modulation as they have little power output. Decided to go BB7's after I found out the hoses were not the correct length on the Juicys.scrublover said:
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Money is not an issue for me, and I choose the mech's on all 8 of our bikes.
Best example is: wife and I did a 12 hour downhill race, both of us used mech's. Wife did 11 runs (about 14 min downhill each time) and I did 12 (about 12 minutes) each time. We both used mech's. Neither of our hands got tired. Neither of our brakes failed.
Best example is: wife and I did a 12 hour downhill race, both of us used mech's. Wife did 11 runs (about 14 min downhill each time) and I did 12 (about 12 minutes) each time. We both used mech's. Neither of our hands got tired. Neither of our brakes failed.
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why not get some used mags...?
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oh, to be sure, i have no beef with the mechs. i loved mine, and still think they are fine and wonderful things. however, i'm liking the juicys more. i never really had any significant problems with my mechs, and i've had them on 3 bikes for several years now. just thought i'd give the hydros a try. no previous hydro experience at all.Padre said:
setup with the CPS was as usual, stupid easy. and the cutting and bleeding nearly as much so. done. used one set for a week straight on the big bike in sedona with no problems whatsoever, other than tweaking my reach adjustments.
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cost? i scored my mags for $100.. all they needed was pads and a bleed.. they looked almost new after i cleaned them up.. you can def find mags for less than $150. just gotta be patient.Padre said:'cause their cost isn't worth any performance increase
"modulation" is an urban myth..
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Try the Galfer pads i found they worked best of all. As for adjusting sounds a bit excessive, but who is to say, these thing are different between each rider.
http://www.galferusa.com/
http://www.galferusa.com/
Personally I like to adjust my lever contact point which Haye' does not have.fiddy_ryder said:
cost? i scored my mags for $100.. all they needed was pads and a bleed.. they looked almost new after i cleaned them up.. you can def find mags for less than $150. just gotta be patient.
Used is used I buy used parts all the time - brakes on the other hand can see some heavy abuse - if I buy brakes they better look like new but then they sell for $150 plus. Most Mags below $150 have worn pads, loose pivot pins and look plain beat.
Ok, I will say it.
You guys are crazy. Hydraulic brakes work wonders over Avid Mech. I have both and the hyd brakes work better. If you are short on cash, then get the Avids, they do work well, but not near as well as hydro brakes. Look around at the dh course next time, you will see mostly hydraulics, for a reason, they work better.
You guys are crazy. Hydraulic brakes work wonders over Avid Mech. I have both and the hyd brakes work better. If you are short on cash, then get the Avids, they do work well, but not near as well as hydro brakes. Look around at the dh course next time, you will see mostly hydraulics, for a reason, they work better.
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My trailbike has avid mechs and they are good for what they are, they arwen't for full on dh, use the juicy they are great for that purpose.
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Try some shimano hyrdros or the newer high end maguras.Padre said:"modulation" is an urban myth..
I agree people often confuse modulation with power (hope) but those two designs have the power to lock your front wheel while still having some lever pull between engagement and lockup without having to apply too much more force at the lever.
I agree with mr dirt. Avids cables work but have nowhere near the performance of any big name hydraulic. Yeah I've ridden them.........lots. They still feel like cables.
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As long as you match the Avids with the proper size disc (read "pizza-size") and change cables and wires often you should be fine. But there are some inherent characteristics that you can never get away from when compare hydraulics versus cable-discs. But you should be good to go.
I've ridden DH for two seasons with Avid mechanicals on my Bullit. They are FAR better than the HMX I had on my trailbike in terms of power, adjustment, etc. I have been pleased with the performance, but make no mistake, they are not the same as the "one finger on the lever" feel of modulation and power you get with hydraulics. It does depend on setup, 8" rotors are a must, and good cables, pads and levers will improve performance, but they are just not as powerful or as dependable as a good hydro. For the price, they are hard to beat, and work very well. Mine are going over to my new SS, and will be replaced by some Juicy 7s. It really depends on what you are looking for. If you freeride and plan to ride occasional DH, then go for it. People can (and do) race with them, but if you are planning on competitively racing or riding a lot of DH, hydraulic is the best way to go.
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if i was going to buy mechanicals then I would choose Avids over Hayes. The Avids are very nice and some people love them. I think EIO has them on his DH bike and loves them...They will be more than fine for you
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no way
I've been riding with BB7 six inch for the past two seasons, and I'm finally going to scrounge some money to get proper FR brakes. They are great for trail riding, but they have horrible modulation. You need two or three fingers on super steep stuff, but you'll lock up with one finger elsewhere. And there is really a fine line between actually braking and locking it up. Also, the Avid levers are made out of bubble gum. I've had to bend the things back several times after only minor crashes. To put it another way, this brake package is not meant for FR/DH. It can serve in a pinch, but why go out of your way to buy these over some decent hydros?
I've been riding with BB7 six inch for the past two seasons, and I'm finally going to scrounge some money to get proper FR brakes. They are great for trail riding, but they have horrible modulation. You need two or three fingers on super steep stuff, but you'll lock up with one finger elsewhere. And there is really a fine line between actually braking and locking it up. Also, the Avid levers are made out of bubble gum. I've had to bend the things back several times after only minor crashes. To put it another way, this brake package is not meant for FR/DH. It can serve in a pinch, but why go out of your way to buy these over some decent hydros?
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contact point meaning how much lever you need to pull before you get pad contact? i know there is reach adjustment on hayes..keen said:
BB7's , Haye's mechanicals & Juicys allow for pad contact adjustment along with lever reach. I have never extensivly ridden on Hydro's so I don't know what I am missing or possibly not. I did notice my last 160 Avid's BB7's have a sort of either on or off feeling. My Hayes are pretty smooth but lack power - I couldn't lock a 6" rear under full braking. My main reason for looking @ Hydro's was not having to adjust the brakes constantly during heavy DH use. Power is not my main concern - for whatever reason I have had more problems with more brake than less.fiddy_ryder said:
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