[expatrider]

I am having a major problem with the brake. The pads are engaging to the point where they are completely clamped down on the rotor. Wheel won't spin at all. I have taken off the caliper, retracted the pads all the way back, and replaced. As soon as the brake is applied, it is clamped down again. So when I release the brake lever, the pads do not back out at all. I have bled the brakes to see if it will make a diff. It does not. Any thoughts before I try to get them warrantied?

 

[fixbikeguy]

Have you tired bleeding them with the pad spacer in place? The rotor is thinner than this and if bled with just the rotor in place you could overfill the system. It sounds like they are overfilled or you need to clean the pistons. How old are the brakes? Have they done this from day one?

 

[expatrider]

Yes - they were bled w/ pad spacer. Brakes are about 4 months old. They did it when new, but when the pads wore a little, it was fine. When I put new pads in, again, there was a lot of drag, but it got better. However, right now, pad wear is about 50%, and they are clamping down so tight wheel won't move. Really bizarre. I could try bleeding again but it's one of my least favorite maintenance chores . . . .

 

[Pedalphile]

It still sounds as though there is too much fluid in the system. Instead of the full bleed, I would try just pulling some fluid out of the lever to see if that gets you where you need to be. You can even do this without the bleed syringes - just open the bleed port to let some fluid weep out (you'll obviously want a rag or paper towel to absorb the fluid so it doesn't get on other parts of the bike).

-Pete

 

[expatrider]

Alright - I'll give it a go. Should the pistons be retracted back before or after I let some fluid out?

 

[Pedalphile]

Alright - I'll give it a go. Should the pistons be retracted back before or after I let some fluid out?

Yes.

I'm anticipating that if you remove the pads and shove the bleed block in, fluid will spill out on its own when you open the lever bleed screw. If fluid doesn't seem to want to come out, it's possible you have a different problem, but I bet if you remove some fluid you will be in a better position.

 

[shopcat_cycles]

I would open the port(lever), push the pistons back, close the port - instead of the other way.

I hear ya on putting off the disc brake bleeding - especially when DOT fluid is involved. I've had my elixir cr's waiting to be worked on for a few days now - maybe I will get to them today.

 

[JakeS]

Sounds like yer contact adjustment is in too far.

 

[frdfandc]

The way to reset the pads is this.

Before pushing the pads back into the caliper, turn the pad contact adjustment all the out. Then push the pads back in.

I had a similar problem with my Juicy 7's and this is the procedure that was given to me by Avid.

 

[dwyooaj]

Sounds like a problem with the piston spring in the master cyliner, possibly.

 

[expatrider]

Thanks for the responses. I tried letting some fluid out of the lever. Did not help. I then re-bled the system. Did not help. Pistons just are not retracting like they should. I think this must be an issue for warranty? I know if I spend any more time on these brakes my blood pressure is going to kill me. . . .

 

[DerrickT]

Hi,

If you have another pair that is working, swap the calibers and that should isolate the problem. Most likely it's not the master cylinder but the calibers and sticky pistons. If it's the calibers, rebuild it and make sure the piston's grove is parallel to the caliber body when reinserting them. This is outline in SRAM's technical document.

I feel your pain.

 

[expatrider]

After trying everything to fix this issue, I took them into my local Avid dealer. They got in contact with Avid, who are going to warranty it, and send a new caliper. Thanks Avid . . . I think.

 

[turnerth]

I am so fed up with my CRs rubbing and pita adjustment process... thinking I may bin them and buy Magura Marta SL.

I can get the CRs to work fairly well with almost no rubbing (just the faintest sound) and for the most part they are tight at the lever.. but the time to get there is fn redonkulous. Not to mention the joys of working with toxic 5.1.

 

[sankaman]

It took awhile to get my elixirs set-up properly, but now that they are, they have been great.

Except for the fact that when bleeding my front caliper the other night, I got a sucking sound coming out of my lever. Also, when I bled the hose, a tiny black bit of something flowed out into the syringe. Is this something I should be concerned about?

 

[AMCAT]

Love my elixirs !!!

 

[Crosstown Stew]

Also, when I bled the hose, a tiny black bit of something flowed out into the syringe. Is this something I should be concerned about?

You mean the fluid was dirty? I bought a pair of cr's used off CL and I don't think they were ever bled, when I went to bled them the fluid that came out was almost black from dust and small particles that I guess worked themselves into the fluid over time. They work fine after I bled them and lubed the pistons.

 

[onegymrat]

Except for the fact that when bleeding my front caliper the other night, I got a sucking sound coming out of my lever. Also, when I bled the hose, a tiny black bit of something flowed out into the syringe. Is this something I should be concerned about?

It was most likely a tiny piece of o-ring rubber from the Bleed Kit.