[SteveM]

Howdy troops, I'm sure one of you out there will be able to help...

Just purchased a VooDoo Aizan to use for commuting/training on and am running Salsa bell lap bars with Diatech levers on Avid mechanicals

now I know that you can get Avids specifically designed for road levers but I already have a set of BB7's and was wondering if there was a better combination ?

the front is sweet, nice and solid feel, plenty of stopping power...however the back is squidgy and resentful, I figure its the length of the cable and all the bends it has to accomadate through being tucked inside the bar tape (which by the way is Brooks leather bar tape - fantastc stuff) there's no way around the bend issue but is there a better choice of cable and/or outer ? (I'm running standard cables at the mo)

I've had success with a short run of Nokon under the bar tape on my cross bike and reckon on trying this but would be ever so grateful for your ideas/thoughts/experiences

cheers

Steve

 

[ionsmuse]

I use a midge, Shimano lever, road BB7 combo on my 29er, and don't tuck the cables under the tape at all. The run is cleaner, and it doesn't interfere with any hand positions.

 

[Fillet-brazed]

Here's a mod you can do to the standard BB7s to decrease the leverage so they'll work with drop bar levers. You can go back to the standard cable mounting method if you end up using these brakes with mtb levers...

https://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/tinc50/DSC095231.jpg

 

[shiggy]

Howdy troops, I'm sure one of you out there will be able to help...

Just purchased a VooDoo Aizan to use for commuting/training on and am running Salsa bell lap bars with Diatech levers on Avid mechanicals

now I know that you can get Avids specifically designed for road levers but I already have a set of BB7's and was wondering if there was a better combination ?

the front is sweet, nice and solid feel, plenty of stopping power...however the back is squidgy and resentful, I figure its the length of the cable and all the bends it has to accomadate through being tucked inside the bar tape (which by the way is Brooks leather bar tape - fantastc stuff) there's no way around the bend issue but is there a better choice of cable and/or outer ? (I'm running standard cables at the mo)

I've had success with a short run of Nokon under the bar tape on my cross bike and reckon on trying this but would be ever so grateful for your ideas/thoughts/experiences

cheers

Steve

The 287-V is the best lever I have used for the mtn BB-7.

Best if used without the noodle at the lever (adds a huge amount of friction) and without wrapping the housing under the bar tape. That, full length housing and bypassing the cable guides (if needed) to reduce the bends does wonders. Also if this is a brand new setup the brake feel improve drastically after the brakes bed in.

 

[WillitsBrand.com]

Hey SteveM, I'm also SteveM. I'm also running the setup you speak of. The Dia Compe levers Shiggy spoke of with mtb BB7s.

I can tell the braking would be much smoother with an unwrapped solution.

 

[SteveM]

cheers chaps

after riding for an hour or so today the rear has loosened up sligthly, its very useable now and will stay put for the time being

and I really can't reccomend the brooks bar tape high enough, have put some bar phat under there this evening and the feel is even nicer

BTW the bike rocks, I really dig this set up and for anyone intersted some pics are on my Flickr site here

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

 

[shiggy]

after riding for an hour or so today the rear has loosened up sligthly, its very useable now and will stay put for the time being

and I really can't reccomend the brooks bar tape high enough, have put some bar phat under there this evening and the feel is even nicer

BTW the bike rocks, I really dig this set up and for anyone intersted some pics are on my Flickr site here

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

Get rid of the cable bends from the TT to the rear caliper! Totally unnecessary. It can be a straight shot and will reduce the friction tremendously.

 

[big & single]

That is some serious saddle to bar drop you've got going there! Can you reach the drops at all?

I love the Brooks tape as well, though have been less than impressed with how well the finish has held up over time - particularly on the honey colour - antique brown was better.

Along with Shiggy also recommend 287Vs and as straight a cable run as possible. I use mine under the tape though and the brake action is good.

Sam

 

[SteveM]

cheers for the tips guys

will do as Shiggy suggests with the cable run

the drops are reachable but I wouldnt want to be down there for too long ;-)

a few more tweaks last night, bar phat fitted, seat height dropped a half inch, chain retensioned and it flew into work this morning, am gagging for an offroad excursion this coming weekend, have a trip out to the coast planned (near to Liverpool, home of the Beatles)

 

[cubeman]

Not that hard!

A bike of another (Dutch) forum I visit:

 

[Feldybikes]

Here's a mod you can do to the standard BB7s to decrease the leverage so they'll work with drop bar levers. You can go back to the standard cable mounting method if you end up using these brakes with mtb levers...

https://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/tinc50/DSC095231.jpg

I've tried that and I was dissappointed to find that it works terribly. I'm using Campy Centaur Ergo levers which may be the problem. I'm also using sorta old calipers/pads, so maybe that's an issue, too, but really it's just that I pull the lever and don't stop nearly as fast as I'd like. Any personal experience with this mod, anyone?