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bi-winning
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I have BB7s, and have demoed the XTs. The Xt are a little bit better, and lighter too. I am cheap, and would never pay the difference between the two, but if money is no issue, i think you would probably like the XTs better.
 

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Space for rent...
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Avid.......hands down.

I have run the XT's for three years and never liked them. Hours of wasted time, and I still can't get them to run drag free. My shop tried four times to eliminate it and failed. Shimano Canada tried twice (even replaced the rear assembly) and failed. I have given up, and just accept it. Do a search, as I have seen this problem discussed many times.

I installed the Avids on a SS build this winter. I was blown away by the simplicity and performance. One-finger braking and great modulation. Other than taking the pads out once to clean, I have NEVER worked on them (1,200+ km's).
 

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I vote for BB7s

Maybe the XTs offer "better" modulation but knowing, absolutely knowing that I can dial out any pad rub on my BB7s in about 5 seconds on the trails makes me smile everytime I take out my BB7 bikes. Got a Hayes 9 bike, too, and cross my fingers that, please God, this ride, please let me ride rub-free! BB7s? Rub-free every ride AND great braking. It's amazing that Avid got it so right the first time.
 

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hey, xcguy...

xcguy said:
Maybe the XTs offer "better" modulation but knowing, absolutely knowing that I can dial out any pad rub on my BB7s in about 5 seconds on the trails makes me smile everytime I take out my BB7 bikes. Got a Hayes 9 bike, too, and cross my fingers that, please God, this ride, please let me ride rub-free! BB7s? Rub-free every ride AND great braking. It's amazing that Avid got it so right the first time.
How often do you actually have to adjust your BB7s to keep them rub-free, and to account for pad wear? Is it every ride, every 10 rides? I have Hayes 9s, which as you know, automatically adjust for pad wear, and any other reason they feel like adjusting! After a long downhill, or at the end of a couple hour ride, would you say your hands feel better using the bb7s or the Hayes 9s(when they are in a good mood)? Thanks.
 

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ride hard take risks
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dumper said:
How often do you actually have to adjust your BB7s to keep them rub-free, and to account for pad wear? Is it every ride, every 10 rides? I have Hayes 9s, which as you know, automatically adjust for pad wear, and any other reason they feel like adjusting! After a long downhill, or at the end of a couple hour ride, would you say your hands feel better using the bb7s or the Hayes 9s(when they are in a good mood)? Thanks.
Give your 9 masters away & upgrade to the Mag masters, huge differance & a dramatic change in the grinn factor. :D
 

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I use the Shimano Saint disc brakes which are essentially the same as the Deore XT disc Brakes, and I love em, they replaced a set of Hayes Comps that I used to have. Although I've had a few issues with them, mainly because I think my calipers are first stringer calipers that had come out, but I've since not had problems after I figure how to get around the problem. With that they perform really well, not problems at all, I'd go with these over the BB7s.
 

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adjusting the bb7s

dumper said:
How often do you actually have to adjust your BB7s to keep them rub-free, and to account for pad wear? Is it every ride, every 10 rides? I have Hayes 9s, which as you know, automatically adjust for pad wear, and any other reason they feel like adjusting! After a long downhill, or at the end of a couple hour ride, would you say your hands feel better using the bb7s or the Hayes 9s(when they are in a good mood)? Thanks.
When I take the front wheel off my Hayes bike (for transporting) then put it on, I cross my fingers while looking down there to check the pad clearance. Sometimes I'll rock it side to side to push the pads away (before tightening the skewers). Then, for a million reasons, either the pads will clear both sides or will rub--and I'm just talking about in the parking lot before riding! Then on the trail--well, if they want to rub there's not a dang thing I can do about it.

With the BB7s--no need to rock the wheel side to side. I just look down there, see which side might need adjusting, turn the red inside or outside knob a click or two, squeeze the lever to check it out and I'm off riding. On the trail, if for some reason I get rubbage (usually don't) I'll turn whichever knob is required to dial the pad out. It might be frame or fork flexing the calipers one way or another, but it's just a 5 second job. I don't have to adjust mid-ride very often at all but if I do it's like wiping off the sweat off the inside of my riding glasses--5 seconds. My BIG point here is that you CAN adjust the BB7s--how many of you can dial out the pad rub on your hydros on command?

I'm probably more sensitive to pad rub than the rest of you. I won't stand for it. Speaking of how my hands feel after long long downhills--I have to admit I like the Hayes better--my fingers don't tire out quite as much and I can modulate my stopping power easier. Of course, I'm not going nuts if the pads are rubbing while going downhill, so I can just concentrate on the stopping power. But the tradeoff is that when I start back uphill (climbing is what I like best) the Hayes will instantly start driving me nuts again. With the BB7s, they stop just fine and never rub. I guess most hydro owners put up with the pad rub for the better lever feel--hey, I like the better lever feel of a hydro--but the BB7s are my choice. I sound like I work for Avid.

One last note: for 2006 the BB7s have what they call the Roundagon rotor. I'm still not sold on them. I like the Clean Sweep rotors (2005 on back) better. They break in quicker and seem to have more bite once they're seasoned. And I don't know why.
 

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xcguy - What exactly are the 2006 rotors supposed to accomplish? Why the change from the pre-2006 rotors? Are there any other differences between the two years, like in the caliper, or the caliper mounting?

One of these days, I'm finally going to buy a new disc capable wheelset, and will be getting BB7's when I do. I just need to figure out the differences between the 2005's and 2006's.
 

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2005 vs 2006

royta said:
xcguy - What exactly are the 2006 rotors supposed to accomplish? Why the change from the pre-2006 rotors? Are there any other differences between the two years, like in the caliper, or the caliper mounting?

One of these days, I'm finally going to buy a new disc capable wheelset, and will be getting BB7's when I do. I just need to figure out the differences between the 2005's and 2006's.
I really can't say. I posted on this forum awhile back asking about roundagon rotors but never got an answer to why Avid felt they needed to change the design or if they were of a different material. Alls I can say is, when you do buy BB7s just make sure they're 2005 or earlier and have Clean Sweep rotors. All the big internet stores have BB7s for sale as well as ebay, just ask if they have the CS rotors. If some roundagon lover wants to post back here and tell me I'm full of sh!t and here's why I'm all ears. I actually saw BB7s on sale for $65 a wheel a few weeks ago. I've always paid about $70-80 a wheel. I believe the calipers have remained unchanged since 2002. They got that part right the first time. So it's not like if you get 2006 calipers you get some big upgrade over 2002--as far as I can tell they're the same.

If you're not gonna be a weight weenie the first time I'm sure you can pick up a disc hub wheelset for cheap right now, plus BB7s--total cost something around $300 to go disc brakes. If that doesn't seem like too much start researching now, make the plunge and ride discs the rest of this season. Good luck.

I rode Hall Ranch yesterday on a BB7 bike and tried hard to not like something about the brakes. In the parking lot I turned one red knob once and was off. On the way back down I tried to feel like the brakes weren't stopping me fast enough or the levers had some funky feel but I arrived back at my truck lovin' the BB7s as much as ever.
 
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