Attn. King SS disc hub owners....
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You.........
Must be an Engineer! You did good on Your tool designs. I found a way to adjust my pre-load by just putting about a 45 degree bend in the straight part of an allen wrench.It takes a bit of finesse(sp?) It is a whole lot easier, (faster) and much more portable. But You do have to remove that thing to rebuild the wheel so I will remember that idea.
Must be an Engineer! You did good on Your tool designs. I found a way to adjust my pre-load by just putting about a 45 degree bend in the straight part of an allen wrench.It takes a bit of finesse(sp?) It is a whole lot easier, (faster) and much more portable. But You do have to remove that thing to rebuild the wheel so I will remember that idea.
Hmmm... I'm sure it does exactly what you say it does, simply, effectively and inexpensively. But being occasionally challenged as I am, I'm not sure I understand just how you employ the tool, even after seeing pictures & reading your blog describing its use. Guess in this case I'd need to see a video.unit said:
Lucky for me I've found that an allen wrench can be bent slightly to allow adjustment of the bearing preload ring witout removal of the rotor adapter.
I don't claim one way is superior to the other, I'm just sayin'...
--Sparty
Edit: Okay, I went back and reread your instructions. Yeah, that's a cool gizmo and even if I don't need to pull my rotor adapter to adjust hub bearing preload, I may someday wish to pull the adapter off the hub for one reason or another. Nice going. Do I score the exhaust hanger at an auto parts store?
In a previous life/job
I tried modifying an allen wrench, but couldn't make it work...especially when the dirt caked up.
Glad you like what you see...I hope more people post up some good home-brews.
There are a few great ideas in this thread....
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=260935
I tried modifying an allen wrench, but couldn't make it work...especially when the dirt caked up.
Glad you like what you see...I hope more people post up some good home-brews.
There are a few great ideas in this thread....
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=260935
Here is a Picture...
I would say both have their place...I just could not get a wrench in there...even after modified to the hilt...guess I am the one who is challenged.Sparticus said:Hmmm... I'm sure it does exactly what you say it does, simply, effectively and inexpensively. But being occasionally challenged as I am, I'm not sure I understand just how you employ the tool, even after seeing pictures & reading your blog describing its use. Guess in this case I'd need to see a video.
Lucky for me I've found that an allen wrench can be bent slightly to allow adjustment of the bearing preload ring witout removal of the rotor adapter.
I don't claim one way is superior to the other, I'm just sayin'...
--Sparty
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I used to struggle with this set-up too, but I was willing to live with the difficulties when I decided to buy another King SS disc for my next build. I built the wheels in April (don't ask) and the adapter was a much better fit this time: I'm not saying I could pry it off with my bare hands, but it won't take nearly as much as my last hub. Maybe King has listened to the heartache on this board, or maybe I just got a good (bad?) example. I think the fit is plenty tight, but who knows.
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This looks like a pain in the a$$! I've been thinking about getting some new wheels this winter, and thougth I'd splurge for the King hubs, but now may have to reconsider.... I wish King made an ISO rear SS hub....
yeah, well....
For sure, it could be easier, and it is a bit of a pain, but, the frequency with which you will need to do this is pretty low. Most reports deal with a bearing adjustment after break-in, and then never again, except during the "regular" maintenance. Not sure what most people define as "regular" intervals...I think King says 12 months. Most people around here do it much less frequently....
I think the reason this was done is to widen the flange spacing as much as possible.marinrider said:
For sure, it could be easier, and it is a bit of a pain, but, the frequency with which you will need to do this is pretty low. Most reports deal with a bearing adjustment after break-in, and then never again, except during the "regular" maintenance. Not sure what most people define as "regular" intervals...I think King says 12 months. Most people around here do it much less frequently....
Looks like you guys put quite a bit of though into this. I just trimmed my 3/32" allen down with some snips and a grinder. Fits right in and I don't have to remove anything. Perfect for keeping with me since I have to tighten the cone every other ride these days.
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That frequently? Ouch. There was a time when I was tightening it quite often, but never as much as you. I haven't had to do it recently, so maybe it's all settled in.smudge said:
BTW, don't you need to tighten the ring by hand before you lock down the bolt? It's been a while since I've done it, so maybe I'm not remembering properly, but I thought the adapter is in the way. How do you get leverage (or even reach it) with the adapter still attached? Or is my memory fading?
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Rtfm
So thinkin' that something is just not right with this, I posed the question to CK. Actually, I asked if they might be coming out with an ISO version, because of all these problems. Here is their response:
"We do not currently produce the rear single speed hub in an ISO version. In the event the adapter needs to be removed, unthread the 3 fixing bolts and use a plastic or wooden dowel to punch the adapter off the shell. One or two alternating blows should remove the adapter. The adapter should only need to be removed in the event of a wheel build or spoke replacement. The hub can be adjusted while on the bike with the use of a cut down hex wrench. Cut the short end of an L bend hex wrench to approximately 5mm long. This will allow the wrench to fit between the adapter and the axle clamp. Let us know if you have any other questions. Thank you for your interest in Chris King Precision Components and have a good day."
I did reply that for what their hubs cost, they should provide a suitable allen wrench to adjust them.
So thinkin' that something is just not right with this, I posed the question to CK. Actually, I asked if they might be coming out with an ISO version, because of all these problems. Here is their response:
"We do not currently produce the rear single speed hub in an ISO version. In the event the adapter needs to be removed, unthread the 3 fixing bolts and use a plastic or wooden dowel to punch the adapter off the shell. One or two alternating blows should remove the adapter. The adapter should only need to be removed in the event of a wheel build or spoke replacement. The hub can be adjusted while on the bike with the use of a cut down hex wrench. Cut the short end of an L bend hex wrench to approximately 5mm long. This will allow the wrench to fit between the adapter and the axle clamp. Let us know if you have any other questions. Thank you for your interest in Chris King Precision Components and have a good day."
I did reply that for what their hubs cost, they should provide a suitable allen wrench to adjust them.
i've been able to orient the allen wrench in such a way that I can use it as a lever to tighten the lockring before tightening the allen bolt. It's a pain in the sack for sure, but possible.Drevil said:That frequently? Ouch. There was a time when I was tightening it quite often, but never as much as you. I haven't had to do it recently, so maybe it's all settled in.
BTW, don't you need to tighten the ring by hand before you lock down the bolt? It's been a while since I've done it, so maybe I'm not remembering properly, but I thought the adapter is in the way. How do you get leverage (or even reach it) with the adapter still attached? Or is my memory fading?
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