If you've got over a centimeter of engagement, I would suspect you'd be fine. If you're worried about it, full thread M6 bolts (w/metric allen heads) are less than a $1 pretty much any hardware store.
Thanks, I'm surprised they recommend that much overhang. I don't even see how the amount that protrudes makes a difference. It seems like if all of the internal threads are engaged that should maximize the strength.SRAM recommends 9-13mm of bolt thread engagement for their post mount brakes. Should be the same for a Shimano setup. From the picture your lower bolt looks a bit short. See page 7 of the included link for details. https://www.servicearchive.sram.com...2_disc_brake_caliper_specs_road_mtb_rev_e.pdf
yeah, thread engagement has nothing to do with how much bolt is hanging out the back side of the threaded hole doing nothing.I think SRAM is referring to having the 9-13mm engagement when the bolts go into the fork mounts or the adapter stacked underneath.
In this case, you could cut the bolts so the ends are flush with the bottom of the adapter.
Thanks, yes I have a Pike that has 160 mountsThose are some funny 200 adaptor. It looks like flat mount adaptors? My shimano 203 looks like an arch with the long bolt going directly into the post. Was your fork originally using 160 disc?
My bike is on the stand and brakes taken out, otherwise I will snap a pic for you.
Yeah, I think you’re correct but the document he referenced shows the 9-13mm of overhang but I realized those threads would be engaged in the fork mount for a normal direct mount adapter. It doesn’t apply to an adapter with offset holes like the one I’m using.I think SRAM is referring to having the 9-13mm engagement when the bolts go into the fork mounts or the adapter stacked underneath.
In this case, you could cut the bolts so the ends are flush with the bottom of the adapter.
I thought the hemispherical washers were to get better alignment with the rotor by allowing a small amount of angular tilt. The Shimano documentation for this adapter is not very helpful.also, I note that the hemispherical washers aren't necessary in this case, so this means that there's definitely extra bolt length. though looking at how much bolt passes through the adapter here, they're at least keeping the bolt from hitting the fork.
the hemispherical washers are only used for these brakes (on top of the caliper, not like SRAM's use between the caliper and adapter) for helping to allow the bolt head to seat flush when you have the sort of adapter that's not threaded and a single bolt attaches the caliper and adapter to the post mount on the fork/frame. Like the old mount that was replaced, in this case.
if you wanted to follow "best practice" for this, you'd use shorter, standard caliper mounting bolts without the washers. this setup works, though, so if you don't want to fuss with hunting down the correct hardware, you can leave it. if you want to be anal and detail-oriented, then you can go for the "best practice" application.
yes, and the kind of angular tilt where that's important occurs when the bolts pass completely through the adapter to thread into the fork. not this kind of adapter that has separate bolts for the adapter to the fork and for the caliper to the adapter.I thought the hemispherical washers were to get better alignment with the rotor by allowing a small amount of angular tilt. The Shimano documentation for this adapter is not very helpful.