[2021Mach6]

I bought my first FS almost a year ago. When you're a newer rider, all the different standards, components and especially geometry can be really confusing.

I'd been debating between a Pivot and Santa Cruz, and one thing I wasted a lot of time on was bottom brackets. I eventually concluded Pivot's tolerances and quality would make it a non issue, but had it been a bike in the $1,000-$2,500 range, I would've probably looked for threaded.

It's been almost a full year riding 1-2 days a week (a lot more in the summer) and 25+ visits to the bike park, and I haven't heard even a squeak from my bottom bracket.

So now I'm looking into an Ibis vs Commencal for a friend (I vote Ibis but my buddy is leaning towards Commencal), I'm back to threaded vs press fit.

So my question is, does it really even matter anymore? I'm confident in Pivot's press fit, but what about other brands? Looking up different forums and googling, seems a lot of these discussions ended around 2016-2017. All things being equal, would you choose one over the other?

 

[jacksonlui]

I've had press fit on my Following many years ago and now on the Yeti. Never had any issues. I would get a good quality BB and follow their recommendations on proper install. I'm currently using BBInifite and it's been great. I like the ones that screw together rather than pressed into the frame to give it a better chance in being parallel to each other.

 

[Pisgah]

Press Fit bottom brackets will never change.

 

[OneTrustMan]

I have 2 pressfit bb bikes and both are fine. Still prefer bsa.
The reason why I and probably others like bsa more, is because it's simply much easier and faster to work on, or replace a bb.

 

[mtbfree]

I bought my first FS almost a year ago. When you're a newer rider, all the different standards, components and especially geometry can be really confusing.

I'd been debating between a Pivot and Santa Cruz, and one thing I wasted a lot of time on was bottom brackets. I eventually concluded Pivot's tolerances and quality would make it a non issue, but had it been a bike in the $1,000-$2,500 range, I would've probably looked for threaded.

It's been almost a full year riding 1-2 days a week (a lot more in the summer) and 25+ visits to the bike park, and I haven't heard even a squeak from my bottom bracket.

So now I'm looking into an Ibis vs Commencal for a friend (I vote Ibis but my buddy is leaning towards Commencal), I'm back to threaded vs press fit.

So my question is, does it really even matter anymore? I'm confident in Pivot's press fit, but what about other brands? Looking up different forums and googling, seems a lot of these discussions ended around 2016-2017. All things being equal, would you choose one over the other?

Nope, never had any problems with PF BB (Giant bikes mostly). I think nowadays it shouldn't be a showstopper at any well-known brand.

 

[Amt0571]

Press fit bottom brackets have never been bad. What was, and still is, extremely bad are bike manufacturers (spoiler: all of them) who can't build a frame within correct tolerances.

I had a Canyon frame replaced under warranty. On the original frame I could install and remove the bottom bracket by hand, with no tools. Needless to say, it creaked like mad. I don't have the tools to measure the new frame, but at least I need a press to install the BB.

 

[slimat99]

If the fame and cups have good tolerances there won't be creaking. Even in that best case scenario, bearings wear out. Unless you replace the bearings without removing the cups from the frame, you'll eventually stress the interface. I've had headsets shift because I changed them too often. Same thing happens with PFBB. Slight shifting won't matter, but creaking will. My 2017 frame has seen three BB's so far. My current BB pushed in without a press. I can't remove the bearings with the cups in because the cups come out so easily. One cup came out accidentally when I removed the cranks to replace the ring. There was some build up on the spindle that required a few hits with a rubber mallet so it's not like the cup came out with hand force but the cup still shouldn't have popped out. This is an unfortunate fact of PF interfaces. They really don't want to be messed with. First time no prob, second third... That's when you'll wish the industry stuck with threads. There's more to threads than just ease of service.. I'm sure I'll need an assembly compound of some sort to take up space if I need to replace the BB again. Certainly not the end of the world, it's just annoying for someone that's been threading BB's for 20+ years without issues.

 

[2021Mach6]

If the fame and cups have good tolerances there won't be creaking. Even in that best case scenario, bearings wear out. Unless you replace the bearings without removing the cups from the frame, you'll eventually stress the interface. I've had headsets shift because I changed them too often. Same thing happens with PFBB. Slight shifting won't matter, but creaking will. My 2017 frame has seen three BB's so far. My current BB pushed in without a press. I can't remove the bearings with the cups in because the cups come out so easily. One cup came out accidentally when I removed the cranks to replace the ring. There was some build up on the spindle that required a few hits with a rubber mallet so it's not like the cup came out with hand force but the cup still shouldn't have popped out. This is an unfortunate fact of PF interfaces. They really don't want to be messed with. First time no prob, second third... That's when you'll wish the industry stuck with threads. There's more to threads than just ease of service.. I'm sure I'll need an assembly compound of some sort to take up space if I need to replace the BB again. Certainly not the end of the world, it's just annoying for someone that's been threading BB's for 20+ years without issues.

When you say 2nd or 3rd time, are you saying you run into trouble with that actual bottom bracket, or is it the actual frame that the BB fits into that's compromised? I've never replaced one so aside from YouTube I have no experience. Also when you say "interface" I wasn't sure what that meant, is it the BB or the space on the frame it fits into.

 

[slimat99]

When you say 2nd or 3rd time, are you saying you run into trouble with that actual bottom bracket, or is it the actual frame that the BB fits into that's compromised? I've never replaced one so aside from YouTube I have no experience. Also when you say "interface" I wasn't sure what that meant, is it the BB or the space on the frame it fits into.

When i say interface I mean the frame itself. (BB tube)

I bought my frame used without a BB so when I installed a fresh bb that was the frame's second BB. I wore that BB out so now my frame is one its 3rd BB. Each time you press in new BB's, you will stress the frame's BB shell to some degree. It's just the nature of PF. Pivot bearings, headsets... It's all the same. When you remove and press in new bearings, or cups, you'll eventually loosen the PF interface so to speak. I kept fooling with angle set headsets on an old frame to the point were they would shift. I had to use loctite to keep the lower cup where it needed to be. If it wasn't an angle set a little shifting wouldn't matter but I would probably get some creaking. Same thing happens with BB's. its' really not a big deal because there are compounds that will take up space, it's just something I would prefer to never think about. Threads make more sense anyway you look at it other than manufacturing cost which we don't see cheaper prices from. At least bring the prices down to reflect these cheaper frames but the prices keep going up.

 

[bingemtbr]

I'm still riding a 2014 frame with its original PF30 BB. Zero issues. The BB is a King. The frame is Ventana. I have over 10k mi on the BB.

 

[2021Mach6]

When i say interface I mean the frame itself. (BB tube)

I bought my frame used without a BB so when I installed a fresh bb that was the frame's second BB. I wore that BB out so now my frame is one its 3rd BB. Each time you press in new BB's, you will stress the frame's BB shell to some degree. It's just the nature of PF. Pivot bearings, headsets... It's all the same. When you remove and press in new bearings, or cups, you'll eventually loosen the PF interface so to speak. I kept fooling with angle set headsets on an old frame to the point were they would shift. I had to use loctite to keep the lower cup where it needed to be. If it wasn't an angle set a little shifting wouldn't matter but I would probably get some creaking. Same thing happens with BB's. its' really not a big deal because there are compounds that will take up space, it's just something I would prefer to never think about. Threads make more sense anyway you look at it other than manufacturing cost which we don't see cheaper prices from. At least bring the prices down to reflect these cheaper frames but the prices keep going up.

Appreciate the detailed explanation. I understand now ... So when they talk about tolerances, and how some manufacturers are tighter with it than others, they're talking about the "BB tube?" And no matter those tolerances, each time the bottom bracket is replaced, that tube (frame) is compromised a little bit more? If I'm following along, my next question obviously is does the quality of your bottom bracket impact that gradual process, or is it inevitable no matter what?

 

[slimat99]

Appreciate the detailed explanation. I understand now ... So when they talk about tolerances, and how some manufacturers are tighter with it than others, they're talking about the "BB tube?" And no matter those tolerances, each time the bottom bracket is replaced, that tube (frame) is compromised a little bit more? If I'm following along, my next question obviously is does the quality of your bottom bracket impact that gradual process, or is it inevitable no matter what?

There's a lot of slop in the bike industry. Most frames and BB's will have good enough tolerances so there won't be creaking but all it takes is the frame or the BB cups to be off just enough to create creaks. Threaded BB's allow for less precise tolerances. Threaded BB's can creak too, but the window for sloppy tolerances is wide enough to make creaking a rare thing. Greasing the threads shuts up a creaking BB. Same with PF but like I said, the more you remove and install BB cups the more wear you put on the frame's BB shell. Unless you press in cups super wonky there should never be a case of a damaged frame. You can remove and instal a bunch of PFBB's without really damaging the frame, but if you do it too often it's likely you'll end up with some creaking because the interface between the cups and frame will widen just enough to create creaks. It's not inevitable, it's just likely. There are compounds we can use to deal with this so its' not the end of the world.

 

[2021Mach6]

There's a lot of slop in the bike industry. Most frames and BB's will have good enough tolerances so there won't be creaking but all it takes is the frame or the BB cups to be off just enough to create creaks. Threaded BB's allow for less precise tolerances. Threaded BB's can creak too, but the window for sloppy tolerances is wide enough to make creaking a rare thing. Greasing the threads shuts up a creaking BB. Same with PF but like I said, the more you remove and install BB cups the more wear you put on the frame's BB shell. Unless you press in cups super wonky there should never be a case of a damaged frame. You can remove and instal a bunch of PFBB's without really damaging the frame, but if you do it too often it's likely you'll end up with some creaking because the interface between the cups and frame will widen just enough to create creaks. It's not inevitable, it's just likely. There are compounds we can use to deal with this so its' not the end of the world.

You're the man, thanks for the explanation!! Lot of conflicting information and different terminology floating around.