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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Cyclocross season is coming and I want to put together a SS crosser this year. Racing cross on the SS MTB works, but I think I could do better with a true cross set-up. My first thought is to build an ENO wheel for my Redline, but the thought of an inexpensive steel SS cross bike strikes me well too. The semi-horizontal dropouts will hold a geared wheel with a QR, so I figured they would also hold a SS wheel.

I am just wondering if a Cross Check would hold the wheel with a good quick release. While I would have to buy a frameset, I would not have to buy a wheel. I am trying to do this as cheaply as I can, yet a steel crossbike for just a little bit more would work well for me too.


Thanks for your help.

James
 

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"Mr. Britannica"
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Manicmtbr said:
Cyclocross season is coming and I want to put together a SS crosser this year Racing SS on the MTB works, but I think I could do better with a true cross set-up. My first thought is to build an ENO wheel for my Redline, but the thought of an inexpensive steel SS cross bike strikes me well too. The semi-horizontal dropouts will hold a geared wheel with a QR, so I figured they would also hold a SS wheel.

I am just wondering if a Cross Check would hold the wheel with a good quick release. While I would have to buy a frameset, I would not have to buy a wheel. I am trying to do this as cheaply as I can, yet a steel crossbike for just a little bit more would work well for me too.


Thanks for your help.

James
Mixed results (and opinions) on this board re: QRs and SS. But try it and see... will prob depend on your power/weight, riding style and terrain, etc. Be sure to use an old style steel QR.
 

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You could probably run a QR in conjunction with a Surly Tuggnut. This should prevent any such slippage associated with using a QR (regardless of steel or aluminum argument) on a SS with semi-horizontal drops.

See details here. Look at BLOG for Friday, July 16, 2004 (10:47 AM).

Hope this helps.

d./
 

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I am the owl
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bulC will tell you 100% without a doubt you can do it as long as you run a steel QR.

While I don't doubt his experiences, I personally replaced the axle w/ a $10 nutted job on wheels that had a QR.
 

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like the man said

riderx said:
bulC will tell you 100% without a doubt you can do it as long as you run a steel QR.

While I don't doubt his experiences, I personally replaced the axle w/ a $10 nutted job on wheels that had a QR.
For 100 percent without a doubt, you need the steel-ended QR, PLUS serrated steel locknuts on the hub PLUS the dropouts made of steel or aluminum, NOT 6/4 titanium, which I don't think the Surly is.

That said, one other factor to consider: The width of the dropouts. If they're not the width of good forged ones, and instead are stamped steel or just cut out from plate, they made be thinner than the width of the exposed axle ends, in which case you will want to file/grind down the ends of the hollow axle until they don't protrude at all not even a nanopubewidth past the outboard faces of the dropouts.
 
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