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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

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I did, it's precisely made and fit very snug but it's made from stainless steel which is too soft. I bent mine pretty quickly and the teeth showed excessive wear after just a couple rides. And yes, it would dig into a aluminum FH Body.

They guy was a good seller though, allowed me to return it and refunded me. If he would make it out of heat treated cro-mo I think it would work better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I was affraid of that. I think a good idea would to make the spacers fit the splin and then bond them to the cog, so the cog and the spacers are driving the freehub body. And, of course, stronger cog material, so they don't wear so fast. But, I guess you get what you pay for.
 

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Mountain Cycle Shawn said:
I was affraid of that. I think a good idea would to make the spacers fit the splin and then bond them to the cog, so the cog and the spacers are driving the freehub body. And, of course, stronger cog material, so they don't wear so fast. But, I guess you get what you pay for.
My best advice is buy the 12-36 HG61 cassette and just take the 36t off it...or you can buy the Action-Tec 36t ti cog
 

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Mountain Cycle Shawn said:
I'm confussed... why would I take the 36 tooth off?
What he is suggesting is, use the 36 tooth cog from the HG-61 cassette on the cassette your using now, or buy the Action Tec cog.
 

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I have been using one of these cogs for months with no problems. I've done a fair bit of steep climbing with it. There is some wear on the freehub body, but it's not excessive. It's also damn handy for attaching a chainring to use as an extra (even lower) gear. I've been trying this myself. Turns out Chris who makes these cogs had the same idea. Here are a couple pics of his setup. The chainring is a 110mm bcd 38 tooth. I have been running a 40 tooth ring inboard of the 36 tooth cog in the same fashion. Not to hijack the thread or anything but it seems to be a pretty good product for the money.

Also, this is just my 2 cents but if you are going to spring for an Action-Tec cog go for the 38 or 39 tooth version. The cost is high enough to question why it'd be worth only going for a 36 tooth cog when other options are much cheaper. I'm running an Action-Tec 39 tooth cog on one of my bikes and the low gear (13.3 gear inches) is great for steep grades and for saving energy.
 

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I have been using one of these cogs for months with no problems. I've done a fair bit of steep climbing with it. There is some wear on the freehub body, but it's not excessive. It's also damn handy for attaching a chainring to use as an extra (even lower) gear. I've been trying this myself. Turns out Chris who makes these cogs had the same idea. Here are a couple pics of his setup. The chainring is a 110mm bcd 38 tooth. I have been running a 40 tooth ring inboard of the 36 tooth cog in the same fashion. Not to hijack the thread or anything but it seems to be a pretty good product for the money.
Did I get this right, you attached a front chainring to this 36 tooth cog from ebay? Does it still work? What kind of rear derailleur are yo using? Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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Did I get this right, you attached a front chainring to this 36 tooth cog from ebay? Does it still work? What kind of rear derailleur are yo using? Thanks in advance.
Yes, I attached 2 of these cogs to different chainrings. One was a 40t, one was a 38t.

The setups I put together are not really any different than the pictures shown above.

Both worked fine, one for about 2 years.
 

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These days I am using old XTR/XT rear derailleurs. Both work fine, one required a longer b-tension screw. It also might help to use a 10t upper pulley.

I tried a SRAM X9 derailleur too, but I don't recommend it. The Shimano derailleurs shift up to the last cog better. If you're going to go the trouble of attaching a ring to your 36t cog, it might as well be a 40. However, if you are going to go with 38t, it might make more sense to buy one of his new cogs. The one I have seems to be stiffer than the 36t cogs.

What is your front granny ring ?

I can tell you from experience that a 12.0 inch granny gear is hard to beat. Guess it depends on what you're doing with the bike though.
 

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Thank you! I am using a XTR shadow rear derailleur (medium cage), if it doesn't work I might change the derailleur cage to a long cage.

Did you have to modify the cog to attach the chainring? And what kind (brand) of chainring did you attach?

I am planning to run a 1x10 setup: a 34 tooth front chain ring and in the back possibly this 38 tooth cog from Ebay with a 40 tooth chainring attached.

BTW what do you mean with 12.0 inch granny gear?
 

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If I were you I'd stick with the 36t cog, and attach a 40t ring to it. The difference between 38 and 40t is not all that significant.

What I mean by a 12.0 inch granny gear is this:

18t front ring/38 or 39t rear cog. I know this is much lower than most people have their bikes geared. Bailout gears like this are sweet.
 

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Thanks you! Yepp might be better to stick with the 36t cog instead of the 38t.

Thanks about the information about the granny gear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So, I'm not sure if I totally understand. If I put this 36T on, would I just take my 11T off to make room for it? Because, I could do without my 11T

I wonder how much they weigh?
 

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@ Phoenixbikes: How did you attach the chainring to the cog? I just got a pair of these cogs from Ebay (super fast delivery to Europe :thumbsup:) but found out, that the holes existing in the cog are to small to insert a chainring bolt. Did you drill bigger holes in the cogs? Thank you.
 

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I attached the chainring to the cog with chainring bolts, and some spacers in between. I made sure the width was more or less the same as a 9 speed spacer.

No modification of the (36t) cog was needed. Check out the pictures, they are the best guidance I can give you.
 
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