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I've been running the wheels for a few weeks now, got the Stan's 29er kit coming in the mail. This will be my first tubeless setup so I'm just wondering if anyone has any experience converting this wheelset - i.e. tips, tricks.

If it doesn't work on this wheelset I also have a backup bontrager set that I will try it on - but I'm really hoping it works for my primary wheelset. Rubber right now is WTB Nano Raptor on back, Kenda Nevegal on front. I've also got a pair of Nokian 296s coming that I was planning on putting on the backup wheelset.

Thanks
 

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Angry bunny
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Yep.
Check the tubeless thread for great instructions from BruceBrown.
I have followed them and had great luck with Blunt rims and a Rampage Tyre using a ghetto setup.
I had no luck with a Stans strip though.
 

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transmitter~receiver
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I don't have Blunts, but I do have VXCs and my attempt at Stan's was disastrous with Schwalbe Little Alberts. After a couple of hours of frustration I turned it over to the team shop and they were finally able to get the front tire seated with yellow tape and a valve stem. The rear tire they ended up having to use a strip on. They said it was the hardest set-up they'd done in 6 years of using Stan's. The front tire blew out on my first ride (X-Bar pre-ride). The rear tire held up through the summer but caused me to DNF at Camp Eagle when it wouldn't seal a tiny thorn hole in the middle of the tread (I burned up CO2 trying to refill it and didn't have a pump). I ain't giving up on Schwalbe or my VXCs, so Stan's had to go. I run Salsa Delgado Disc 29ers on my hard tail and Stan himself told me not even to try, so I didn't. I don't get a lot of flats, so I decided it was a solution to a problem I don't have. It seems like it's very dependent on tire/rim combo, and my two XC wheelsets don't fit the bill.
I've entertained the idea of using ultralight tubes with Stan's in them, but since I don't get many flats, I ain't that motivated.
Good luck! I know tons of people swear by it.
 

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Birthday Collector
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I ran the Blunt with a Stan's strip, 29 x 2.3" Exiwolf and it was trouble-free - a little tough to seat, but once there never touched it. Had my girth, 30+ pounds of gear and 2 water bottles on the Telluride-to-Moab hut trip and no flats or problems at altitude. I did have a Michelin AT 2.0 that would not seat on this rim, or a WTB Speedisc, so I attribute that to the tire.
 

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Always Learning
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bikerfish said:
I've been running the wheels for a few weeks now, got the Stan's 29er kit coming in the mail. This will be my first tubeless setup so I'm just wondering if anyone has any experience converting this wheelset - i.e. tips, tricks.

If it doesn't work on this wheelset I also have a backup bontrager set that I will try it on - but I'm really hoping it works for my primary wheelset. Rubber right now is WTB Nano Raptor on back, Kenda Nevegal on front. I've also got a pair of Nokian 296s coming that I was planning on putting on the backup wheelset.

Thanks
Oy! How many times have I posted the pictures and instructions?

Here's what you need...

Method One:

Frost King weatherstripping to fill center channel



Stan's 26" Freeride Strips. Not the 29"er strips. Not the Standard strips. Not the Plus Four strip. Not the Flow strip. Not the Rhyno Lite strip. It must be the 26" Freeride strip. Period!



Add sealant, air up and let the sides seal following the shake and bake:



Method Two:

A pair of 24" or 26" Schrader valve tubes from Wal-Mart cut down the middle and stretched over the rims...



Full view of the cheap tubes stretched over the rims...



Mount the tires and add sealant...



Air up and seal the sides on the buckets following the required NoTubes.com shaking...



Cut the excess tube off - here's the trimming of only one tube on the scale:



Mount 'em up and ride...



Pronounce yourself a tubeless conversion guru and get on with your life.:thumbsup: :cool: :D :p

They work great converted tubeless - as long as you follow directions in method one or method two.

BB

P.S. Mods - we need to get thr successful tubeless conversion thread as a sticky or in the FAQ.
 

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Bruce's write-up is awesome. You'd think Velocity would pay him for that.

I was successful using the Maxxis Tubeless Rim Strips. Works almost too easy. They sold out in 2008 and I hope they come back in 2009 but the ones I used were the 26A5s which were designed for the Sun-Ringle R.P.M. Lite 26" rims. Worked with a Nano in the rear and a Crossmax in the front. The cool thing about the Maxxis rim strip is that it is a lot like the cut inner-tube that Bruce uses - BUT with one huge difference - there is a bead hook in the strip. It is 3D rather than the 2d version of Stans strip. Much, much safer install and never had an issue with tire roll-off. Maxxis hands down makes the best strips in my opinion....I hope they come back in 2009!

I've used the Maxxis on Ritchey rims, American Classic, and the Velocities with great success. Fastest seating of any setup I have used.
 

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Bruce,
Why a shrader valve vs presta?
Do you think the 26inch freeride strip would also work for the 650b blunt with a neo-moto tire? Is the strip wide enough so as go between the rim and tire bead like the ghetto setup?

There must be a reason the Maxxis system is no longer available. If it worked so well then why not still on the market?
 

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Getto tubeless on Blunts, mine blew off in the trunk of my car on I-70 driving down Vail pass (low 20's psi) My wife and I both thought one of the car tires blew. Made me nervous about the setup, put tubes back in.
 

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Always Learning
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cruzean said:
Bruce,
Why a shrader valve vs presta?
Do you think the 26inch freeride strip would also work for the 650b blunt with a neo-moto tire? Is the strip wide enough so as go between the rim and tire bead like the ghetto setup?
A few reasons in my case. Schrader because they all have removable valve cores so you can easily add sealant in the initial set up as well as later on when it's time to top off the fluids. Plus, a Wal-mart tube costs me like, I forget, a buck and change I think (maybe more) and is only a couple miles from my house where as the LBS is 15 - 17 miles. And, my valve stem holes were already drilled out to take the Schrader valve of the Stans Freeride Strip (that strip only comes in Schrader valve).

Ghetto on the 650B Blunt? Sure, I would use the 24" tube for that. Keep in mind, even though you are going "ghetto", you still have to do the weatherstripping channel fill to keep everything snug up around the bead and prevent burping. The Freeride strip would work even better in the 650B since there would not be as much stretching involved, but you still need the weatherstripping underneath it.

cruzean said:
There must be a reason the Maxxis system is no longer available. If it worked so well then why not still on the market?
I don't know. Was there any patent infringement involved?
 

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Always Learning
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Wish I Were Riding said:
Bruce,

Nice detailed steps. Have you found one more easy than the other? Do you have a preference now that you've done them both successfully?

I looks to me like "Method 2" is easier since you don't have to deal with the rim channels as much...
No preference. If changing tires often, preference goes to using the Stans strip. If mounting and riding the same tires for many weeks/months, ghetto isn't a bad option. If you want me to get all green on you, then I would vote for the Freeride strips because you can reuse them over and over and over again. Pretty hard to reuse a ghetto strip, plus all the wasted material you cut off and toss out. You could use either for wrapping chainstays I guess.

Then again, I use a 1/2 gallon of diesel fuel to clean my drivetrains every season - so how green am I? Then again, I use the same old container to store it year after year and don't have to buy all those bottles of Simple Green which involves throwing the bottles away.:nono:

But that's another issue. Either method works, but both require the weatherstripping underneath. The ghetto is easy and the quickest for a conversion.

BB
 

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Always Learning
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71 10-7 said:
Getto tubeless on Blunts, mine blew off in the trunk of my car on I-70 driving down Vail pass (low 20's psi) My wife and I both thought one of the car tires blew. Made me nervous about the setup, put tubes back in.
Did you have the center channel filled with weatherstripping underneath the ghetto strip?

If not, :nono:

I had that happen on my first attempt with the Delgado Disc rim after I way over-inflated beyond 40 psi. I was cruising home from the gas station air hose when "BOOM" in the back of the car went off. The good news now is that my Honda Element is finally air tight...

But seriously, I would be curious about the combination of tire and the steps you took leading up to the explosion. It made me nervous too with the Delgado Disc. And a lot of folks would understandably shy away from the whole thing after that. I just kept tinkering though, but there was a learning curve for me to successfully convert the Delgado Discs with kevlar beaded Nanoraptors. Now I use those Nanos on the Blunts and I have Schwalbe Racing Ralphs on the Delgado Discs. I did burp a Racing Ralph 2.4 on the front when it was on my American Classic rim because I was running way too low of pressure and hit a big ole tree root at an odd angle going pretty fast in a race. I must have been around 20 psi when the burp happened. One can of Big Air in my jersey pocket to the rescue and I was back in the race a couple minutes later. No other mishaps to date and I've been tubeless converted now on all wheels for a couple of seasons.

BB
 

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Steps.......conversion done by the LBS wrench, used 20 or 24 inch presta tubes. Just layers of electrical tape in the channel (I think). Worked fine for about two months. Took vacation in Colorado, three hour ride in EP, not problem. Drove through RMNP, up and down Loveland, up Vail, blew coming down. Figured it had something to do with the chaning altitude/air pressure. Oh, Bontrager Tires XR 2.1 tubeless ready tires.
 

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Angry bunny
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71 10-7 said:
Steps.......conversion done by the LBS wrench, used 20 or 24 inch presta tubes. Just layers of electrical tape in the channel (I think). Worked fine for about two months. Took vacation in Colorado, three hour ride in EP, not problem. Drove through RMNP, up and down Loveland, up Vail, blew coming down. Figured it had something to do with the chaning altitude/air pressure. Oh, Bontrager Tires XR 2.1 tubeless ready tires.
Tried that myself.
Does not work.
Follow BB's instructions and you will be AOK. :thumbsup:
 

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Always Learning
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71 10-7 said:
Steps.......conversion done by the LBS wrench, used 20 or 24 inch presta tubes. Just layers of electrical tape in the channel (I think). Worked fine for about two months. Took vacation in Colorado, three hour ride in EP, not problem. Drove through RMNP, up and down Loveland, up Vail, blew coming down. Figured it had something to do with the chaning altitude/air pressure. Oh, Bontrager Tires XR 2.1 tubeless ready tires.
It would take a heck of a lot of wraps of electrical tape to build up to the thickness of the Frost King weatherstripping I use. Probably 10 - 15 wraps (I'm guessing). Did you look in there to see how thick they built it up with tape?

Here's the pick again to see how "stuffed" the channel is and how high up the weatherstripping comes on my Blunts...



The other possible cause is the specific tire you were using - the XR tubeless ready. I've never seen one up close, but don't the Bontrager tubeless ready tires have a specific tire bead designed to be used with the Bontrager tubeless ready rims bead hook and strips? Somebody can chime in here on that, but I think mixing it with another rim that does not have a bead hook designed to be used with that tire's bead is not a good mix. I doubt altitude had anything to do with it. I would think heat in the trunk from the sun would be a factor before altitude, but who knows? Did you ever add additional sealant from the time the LBS set them up for you 2 months earlier? I would have topped off the fluids in them by then after an initial set up since a lot of the sealant gets used in sealing up the tire and the summer heat/dry dehydrates everything pretty quickly.

Successful conversions to date for me on the Blunts include: Crow, Small Block 8, Nanoraptor, Kenda Karma 1.9 and Fire XC Pro. Of those, the only tires that have been on the rims for more than 2 months are the Nanoraptors. They've been on there since August and are still holding fine.

BB
 

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BB, to answer some of you ?'s......the channel was no where near the thickness of the pic with the weather stripping. I didn't add more sealant but rode the rear (the tire that blew was the front) for quite some time later and finally decided to put a tube in that. That tire still had quite a bit of Stans in it. No idea on the specific bead of the Bontrager tires and if that contributed. Don't think the heat in the trunk had anything to do with it......nice cool day and the wheel had been in the trunk on the drive from MN, no probs. Anyway, thanks for posting all the info and steps, gives me some confidence to give it another shot.
 

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Always Learning
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71 10-7 said:
BB, to answer some of you ?'s......the channel was no where near the thickness of the pic with the weather stripping. I didn't add more sealant but rode the rear (the tire that blew was the front) for quite some time later and finally decided to put a tube in that. That tire still had quite a bit of Stans in it. No idea on the specific bead of the Bontrager tires and if that contributed. Don't think the heat in the trunk had anything to do with it......nice cool day and the wheel had been in the trunk on the drive from MN, no probs. Anyway, thanks for posting all the info and steps, gives me some confidence to give it another shot.
I'm going to go with the center channel not being built up enough as cause #1. And the bead and bead hook combination of the XR TLR with the standard bead hook of the Blunt as cause #2.

Without searching all over the forum and the internet, my memory seems to recall that those TLR tires are really designed to be used with the TLR Bontrager rims and the specific Bontrager rimstrips for that set up. I would venture to guess that running the TLR tires tubeless on a standard bead hook rim may not be the best route to take. I will defer to Guitar Ted and Mikesee on that subject as they both have plenty of experience with the Bonty stuff to answer that.

If trying the Blunts tubeless again, I would suggest a different tire. You can also poke around and search the NoTubes.com support message forums. That's where I talked through the Blunt rim conversion with the guys from NoTubes to dial in the best course of action to take. You might find some threads over there about using the TLR tires and Blunts.

Crows, Ravens, Karma 1.9's all fit with a very nice and tight bead (as do the Small Block 8's) making for easy conversions. But those are all XC race weenie weight tires. As I said, I had no difficulties with Nanoraptors and the Fire XC Pros. I'm sure there are others that convert fine. And I'm sure there are some that do not work. By the way, the smaller volume tires like the Crow, Karma 1.9, Bontrager XR 1.8, etc... kind of come to life on the wider rims with a better footprint. They are not as "noodly or squirmy" as they are when running these tires on narrower rims.

Here are the Karma 1.9's which was the first set of tires I put on the Blunts last summer. And I "got away" with doing it using the 29"er strips which I abandoned on my next conversion to swap over to the much better Freeride strips (much better meaning, much better for wider rim applications as you want the rim strip snug up against the inner rim wall and you can't get that with the 29"er strips).



BB
 

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Bruce--

So the ghetto tubeless method uses the weatherstripping, too? And each rim gets two 24" or 26" schraeder tubes? And both methods work without using a UST-specific tire, right?

I had a set of Blunts built up that are ready to be picked up and I'm considering going one of those routes.
 

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SpartaSpartan said:
Bruce--

So the ghetto tubeless method uses the weatherstripping, too? And each rim gets two 24" or 26" schraeder tubes? And both methods work without using a UST-specific tire, right?

I had a set of Blunts built up that are ready to be picked up and I'm considering going one of those routes.
Weatherstripping for ghetto?

Yes.

Each rim gets two 24" or 26" tubes?

No. Each rim gets one 24" or 26" tube? Schrader if you don't mind drilling out your valve stem holes just enough for the Schrader valve to fit through. Watch or download the movie in the Support section at NoTubes.com about drilling out the valve stem holes. I forget exactly which drill bit sizes to use, but the instructions that you can see/view/download at NoTubes.com tells you.

Presta tubes if you want to add sealant by pulling the bead of the tire and pouring it in the tire itself. Or, if you can find Presta tubes with removable cores or do the trick of using a non-removable core (several threads on that technique around MTBR.com). I like Schrader because it's easy, the core is removable, and I usually end up eventually destroying Presta valve cores with my many thumbs.:D

Both methods work with non UST tires?

Yes. Both the Stans rimstrip and the ghetto version work with non-UST tires.

Here's a link to a primer with instructions and pictures on the entire process (keep in mind they are talking about doing a ghetto conversion on a 26" wheel). Click on the link in the first column (2nd in the column) entitled:

GHETTO TUBELESS *NEW*

http://www.go-ride.com/WSWrapper.jsp?mypage=RidingTips.htm

Disregard a couple of things they say like "Stan's sealant will eat a hole in your tire if left sitting for more than a week". Pure Balderdash. And do not, I repeat "DO NOT" fill the tire up to 50 - 60 psi as they recommend. I would not go a hair over 40 psi (recommendation from NoTubes.com and Stan himself). You may not need an air compressor, but if you have one or can get to a gas station go use one - it's quicker and easier. Just take care not to go over 40 psi.

BB

P.S. If you have any questions - don't be afraid to ask.
 
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