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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went to a LBS who has Santa Cruz as a line of bikes.They had a 209 Nomad with Gamut Chain G was nice.But when I went to Gamut and the E-13 web site. On the E-13 site I saw the E-13 DRS dual ring. Are any of you guys running this? How is it? What is the taco guard that the Santa Cruz web is talking about. AKA not being good something about crushing the ISCG tabs. Any info would be great. Thanks. :D
 

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JohnnyG 1970 said:
Went to a LBS who has Santa Cruz as a line of bikes.They had a 209 Nomad with Gamut Chain G was nice.But when I went to Gamut and the E-13 web site. On the E-13 site I saw the E-13 DRS dual ring. Are any of you guys running this? How is it? What is the taco guard that the Santa Cruz web is talking about. AKA not being good something about crushing the ISCG tabs. Any info would be great. Thanks. :D
The Taco guard is the small curved guard that sits under the Ethirteen Light Guide (LG-1). This works as the bashguard and bolts directly to the ISCG tabs rather than attaching to the cranks. So any large hits may snap off the tabs.

On the DRS I have not tried it on my 09 Nomad yet, but I had it on my blur 4x and it was fantastic. They take a bit of work to get set up but once set up right I never dropped my chain once even on DH runs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info. Much appreciated. Going to have my LBS install it. Now I understand the whole Taco guard thing that they-S/C was talking about on there web site. Thanks again.
 

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The E 13 DRS works great on the nomad 2 holds the chain on and shifts well. I had one on a nomad 1 never had any complaints. took a few adjustments to get it right but once it was spaced right it worked great ( 2yrs.). Love the Nomad 2 great job SC. the DRS works as well or better on the Nomad 2 , the tabs keep it in place better than the BB mount style. sent some pics sorry for the dirt just rode. D
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
dbuilt said:
Thank you for info and pic's. Rode today East Coast- temp-59 very wet ,very muddy, still snow on some of the trails. your bike looks clean compared to mine. LOL Thanks again.
 

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To get an e.13 guide of any sort to work best on a new Nomad, you will need to do a minor bit of work with the Dremel. The guide pulley slider should be trimmed (notched really) a little to allow the guide to be rotated clockwise more than stock will allow. This is due to the somewhat low hanging chainstay of the Nomad.

With the DRS you might not notice any issues initially without trimming the guide but the roller will in fact hang too low (prone to impacts) and not put enough tension on the chain. On the LG-1 or SRS the upper guide will not align properly with the chain as it enters the guide and will make a good bit of noise unless you Dremel the lower guide about 3-5mm. The specific area that needs to be trimmed is above the roller. It is obvious as its the part that first makes contact with the underside of the chainstay when you rotate guide clockwise. Just trim off enough of the plastic to allow the guide to clock around a few more degrees but not so much as the chain will make contact with the chainstay. If it sounds complicated, it's not just look at it and it will be obvious.

Good luck! e.13 products are awesome. I've been using them for many years (since the Evil days.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
punkassean said:
To get an e.13 guide of any sort to work best on a new Nomad, you will need to do a minor bit of work with the Dremel. The guide pulley slider should be trimmed (notched really) a little to allow the guide to be rotated clockwise more than stock will allow. This is due to the somewhat low hanging chainstay of the Nomad.

With the DRS you might not notice any issues initially without trimming the guide but the roller will in fact hang too low (prone to impacts) and not put enough tension on the chain. On the LG-1 or SRS the upper guide will not align properly with the chain as it enters the guide and will make a good bit of noise unless you Dremel the lower guide about 3-5mm. The specific area that needs to be trimmed is above the roller. It is obvious as its the part that first makes contact with the underside of the chainstay when you rotate guide clockwise. Just trim off enough of the plastic to allow the guide to clock around a few more degrees but not so much as the chain will make contact with the chainstay. If it sounds complicated, it's not just look at it and it will be obvious.

Good luck! e.13 products are awesome. I've been using them for many years (since the Evil days.)
Thank you very much. If you could post some pic's so I can see what your talking about that would be great. I wish I could put one of these on my Traver Vpp but as you know there are no tabs on it.
 

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I don't have any pics handy but I just photoshopped a stock pic to give you an idea. It's very simple really and very obvious once you have the product in hand. The exact amount of material to be trimmed will vary slightly depending on the bike you have and the chainring size you are running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
punkassean said:
I don't have any pics handy but I just photoshopped a stock pic to give you an idea. It's very simple really and very obvious once you have the product in hand. The exact amount of material to be trimmed will vary slightly depending on the bike you have and the chainring size you are running.
Thank you. I am going to have my LBS guy put it on the bike when I get it. He is very good at what he does so I should be fine. Thanks again. It will be nice to go down a very rough section and not have to worry about my chain coming off or bouncing all around.
 
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