Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
661 - 680 of 710 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Thank you, good to know. After looking at similar hard tails...I'm leaning towards keeping my Fathom. Most everything I looked at was around $500 more expensive. That's not too bad, but they also all had cheap brakes which I would want to replace, adding more $.
Makes sense to me - if you've got the chainring issue sorted (which is a super simple fix, even if it's annoying that Giant made the spec mistake) and you've got Deore 4 pots, I just don't see why you'd sell the Fathom! Yes, it's annoying the fork has these problems...but, again, this is something Giant will take care of eventually, even if they are slow right now because of supply chain disruptions. Again, I totally get the frustration for new riders with the Crest clicking and such, but I'd count on Giant (given their size and capability) to make it right much more than many other companies.

The overall spec on Giants right now is simply in a different universe from other manufacturers. Specialized, for instance, is a total joke compared with Giant. To get the equivalent of the Fathom 2 spec on a Specialized Fuse, you'd be in at the $1900 level. It makes so much more sense to pick up a Fathom 2, update brakes as you go, use the Crest fork for a year or two. If people end up hating the Crest, the Fathom 2 is totally worth the upgrade to a nice fork down the line...and a Fathom 2 with either a $500-ish Marzocchi, or a $750/800-ish Fox or Rock Shox is a killer bike compared with that Specialized at $1900....and you'd still be under $2300 in total (across a couple of years) for the Giant.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
The discussion on YT videos I found about the fork issue is that the clicking is usually a bad cartridge and easily replaced. I was talking to my Giant LBS and they don't do forks but said if mine ends up having the issue they can replace a cartridge even though they don't do the other stuff.

So it seems like an issue, but by no means is it a major issue. Especially if Giant is willing to just ship an entire new fork to those who happen to have a bad cartridge. Good on Giant for making it right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
I just picked up a 2021 Fathom 2 and it had the DM-B chainring, which apparently signifies 0 offset. However, I have ridden it twice on trails and haven't dropped a chain yet. Is this something that will happen over time?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
I just picked up a 2021 Fathom 2 and it had the DM-B chainring, which apparently signifies 0 offset. However, I have ridden it twice on trails and haven't dropped a chain yet. Is this something that will happen over time?
Do any climb in the tallest gears and it’ll happen. When I had mine I couldn’t use the top 2 gears and it was annoying, was basically an unreliable 10 speed. I’m lucky I got rid of it for only a $200 loss. I now have a Ragley big al and it’s been flawless.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
I just picked up a 2021 Fathom 2 and it had the DM-B chainring, which apparently signifies 0 offset. However, I have ridden it twice on trails and haven't dropped a chain yet. Is this something that will happen over time?
I have about 400 miles on mine, with a lot of climbing, and haven't had an issue with the stock chainring. Praxxis sent me a 3mm offset chainring, but it wasn't usable. It rubbed the chainstain. Makes me think the issue is something else, like the press fit cups being inserted backwards. (they have different widths)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
I just picked up a 2021 Fathom 2 and it had the DM-B chainring, which apparently signifies 0 offset. However, I have ridden it twice on trails and haven't dropped a chain yet. Is this something that will happen over time?
It is primarily the lowest/slowest gear. Other's have had issues with the slowest 2 gears. You can use the slowest 2 gears in level ground, but go up a climb or lightly press your front brake while you pedal for 30 yards with the gear in the lowest gear and the chain will come off. FIRST, put some frame protection on around the crank as my paint is a mess from the chain coming off 2-3 times before I figured out to never shift to the lowest gear.

I have a 3 degree offset on the way. Hopefully, that will fix the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Do any climb in the tallest gears and it’ll happen. When I had mine I couldn’t use the top 2 gears and it was annoying, was basically an unreliable 10 speed. I’m lucky I got rid of it for only a $200 loss. I now have a Ragley big al and it’s been flawless.
It is primarily the lowest/slowest gear. Other's have had issues with the slowest 2 gears. You can use the slowest 2 gears in level ground, but go up a climb or lightly press your front brake while you pedal for 30 yards with the gear in the lowest gear and the chain will come off. FIRST, put some frame protection on around the crank as my paint is a mess from the chain coming off 2-3 times before I figured out to never shift to the lowest gear.

I have a 3 degree offset on the way. Hopefully, that will fix the problem.
I should've clarified. I've used the smallest 2 gears climbing. I'm out of shape and pretty much only use the first, lowest gear when climbing. I haven't had the chain come off
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
I'm curious, to anyone that has/had the chain drop problem, are the BB cups on the correct side? Non-drive side cup should stick out more:

1936161


I didn't measure, but it looks like a ~2mm difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I'm curious, to anyone that has/had the chain drop problem, are the BB cups on the correct side? Non-drive side cup should stick out more:

View attachment 1936161

I didn't measure, but it looks like a ~2mm difference.
My son has been riding his fathom 2 29er for couple of months now.
I have asked him about these concerns (chain drop and fork noise) occasionally but, fortunately, no issues yet.
I checked the BB cups as you mentioned. They are installed correctly (sticking out more on non-driven side).
Hope to hear others how these were installed....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
260 Posts
...when you drive to a bike park after a hard week and the SRAM SX shifter stops working on the very first climb, well, you can't believe that feeling... 🤣 :p
1936293


Fortunately my car parked close to the bike, I could go back and had all necessary tools in my car to fix it. The issue was, the shifter cable fell in into the gap between the red plastic 'drum' and the spiral spring and the whole mechanism got stuck. (No movement at all, both shifters got stuck.) When I removed the cover, all parts fell apart, it looked like a nightmare to fix it at first but after 25 mins of work I could fix it more or less.

Now, when I'm trying to shift to a slower gear, sometimes the shifter don't shift at all, sometimes only makes a strange noise. After 2.000 km of usage it seems I need to change it to a more durable one from SRAM... (maybe a GX)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Be aware: "Designed to be used with Eagle 12-speed chains." It'll probably work better that if your chain is always dropping, but you'll likely see accelerated wear on the chain/chainring

Can you check to see if the bottom bracket cup on the non-drive side sticks out more than the drive side?

1936601
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Thanks! I was curious if the cause is something other than the chainring since I have a 0mm offset chainring and have had no problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Was able to score a Fathom 2 29er here in Montreal, Canada. It has the 0 offset chain ring, and the chain line is way off in easy gears. Glad I knew beforehand about the issue through this forum: saved me some frustration and touch up paint. The shop is all over it and has contacted Giant, but I ordered a SRAM ring through The Bike Shop (online store) in Calgary as a backup in case it takes half the summer to sort things out through the warranty. The SRAM X-Sync 2 was 29$ CAD plus shipping. BTW, no fork click yet!
 
661 - 680 of 710 Posts
Top