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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I did, so some naval jelly later.


since it was apart, the links/pivots, salsa seat post clamp derailleur hanger and headset bearing cups all went out to the anodizer.

This will be the end result


hopefully have parts back this week and i'll have the frame painted by then as well.

this was it a couple of weeks ago.
 

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Check the search on the Turner forum because some time ago, someone did get something anodized. Don't know if the results turned out ok, but it won't hurt to also post a question looking to find out who Turner's old anodizer was (they started destroying frames in the process so it was canned).

Anodizing is nice, but personally, I'd go with powdercoat in an aftermarket application. Anodizing a frame is not an easy task.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Im not anodizing the frame, just the pivots, which were anodized to begin with. When done properly you should be removing somewhere between .0003 and .0005. This allows you to remove the ano at least 1-3 times before getting into a area that will remove enough material that will not allow the threads to hold or the tolerances to be considerably off.

Growth after re-anodizing isnt considerable either. Probably have growth of .0002 to .001.
 

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Bob Loblaw said:
Im not anodizing the frame, just the pivots, which were anodized to begin with. When done properly you should be removing somewhere between .0003 and .0005. This allows you to remove the ano at least 1-3 times before getting into a area that will remove enough material that will not allow the threads to hold or the tolerances to be considerably off.

Growth after re-anodizing isnt considerable either. Probably have growth of .0002 to .001.
There are still tolerances to deal with and your operative word there is "should".
 

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Type II chromic anodize (your garden variety black anodize) gives a typical .0002" buildup of material.

A bore hole will therefore become .0004" smaller. It's typical for platers to mask precision bores (you just have to tell them which holes those are beforehand - give them a sketch otherwise you can end up in a urination contest).

Personally, I wouldn't anodize the frame. Despite claims to the contrary, anodize is not a particularly rugged coating. I had a black anodized Alan aluminum road bike in the 80's and the finish got nicked up here and there and short of using a Sharpie there's no touch-up.

It's important to mention that the finish of the frame (swirls, roughness etc) will be identical after after as it is in a bare state. You'll have to fine sand the frame so that there is a consistent finish otherwise it will look like sh ... , well it won't look as nice as you'd like, let's leave it at that.

Furthermore, depending on who does the anodizing, you can get get a finish which is sensitive to oils and acids on your bare hands. The result is that a few months down the line your frame is tatoo'd with luminescent fingerprints.

Insist on: ANODIZE PER MIL-A-8625 TYPE II, CLASS 2, COLOR BLACK, complete with certification
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Im not having the frame anodized. Just the dw-links. Frame is being powdercoated.

Oh and I have spoken with 3 people at ironhorse about this and all assured me that if someone familiar with working on bikes does it it should be OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Sorry for the lack of updates, got the parts back from the anodizer. Sending frame out for powdercoating tomorrow. Hoping ot have it back together by weeks end. It's been slow because I was selling my street legal KTM 620 SC and been hunting for a 64-69 Volvo 122 Amazon. Found a few and hoping to buy one this week/next week.

Here's a pic of a couple of the parts. All in all what got anodized were dw-links, headset cups, salsa seat clamp, der-hanger. Im going to prep the frame so they dont get PC where it shouldnt be.

So, sneak peak.
 
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