[subspd]

I am thinking this might be the best solution for me...
Take this bike fantom29pro

And put it on this frame
Voodoo

Looks like the Seatpost Diameter: 31.6mm and Front Derailleur Clamp: 34.9mm (1-3/8") wont work as they are larger on the Voodoo.

Anything else anyone can foresee being a problem with this swap it appears the front end will swap over.

 

[ppfeifer]

No I haven't but it's a good way to save some $.

Front derailleur size is based on the seat tube diameter. So you'll need a new one of those, too.

 

[subspd]

So the front derailleur will work? huh?

 

[wv_bob]

I did that to build my Big Mama. It was a good way to get it together quick, but now that I've replaced the wheels, tires, crank, headset, bars, stem, I wonder if I would've been better off to build from scratch so I only bought parts once. On the other hand, I've got some spare parts now.

Be sure to check out the steerer tube length on the size you buy so you get one long enough for your new frame.

 

[schneidw]

If your cool w riding a pogo stick.. its a great deal... bob-bike

 

[subspd]

Rear end bobs? First I have heard of it.

 

[xjbaylor]

Rear end bobs? First I have heard of it.

It is no different than any other 4-bar linkage FS design out there. Without anything to control the suspension it will remain active, or bob. That is why the newer Canzo's being offered with the RT3 is such a big deal, to me at least. The RT3's "propedal" settings help control pedal induced bob, while still remaining active enough to maintain the advantages of a FS bike. Unless I am on a VERY open XC course I will ride either "open" or in "PP1". PP2 is rarely used for me, but extended, wide open, climbs are pretty rare where I ride (all over Texas.)

 

[ryguy135]

I did this with a Fantom 29PRO (not SL) to build up an Orbea Alma frame. You'll probably need a seatpost and clamp, but you can use the front derailleur, just remove the spacer. The clamp is 34.9 on all Shimano clamp derailleurs, they just use spacers to shrink it for smaller ones.

I'm not familiar with the Voodoo, but I still wound up having to get a new front derailleur. The Alma required a top clamp derailleur as the bottom clamp the motobecane came with.

Also, make sure you have enough steer tube. I barely had enough with the Alma.

 

[Jim311]

I did this with a Fantom 29PRO (not SL) to build up an Orbea Alma frame. You'll probably need a seatpost and clamp, but you can use the front derailleur, just remove the spacer. The clamp is 34.9 on all Shimano clamp derailleurs, they just use spacers to shrink it for smaller ones.

I'm not familiar with the Voodoo, but I still wound up having to get a new front derailleur. The Alma required a top clamp derailleur as the bottom clamp the motobecane came with.

Also, make sure you have enough steer tube. I barely had enough with the Alma.

You could either ask BD not to cut the steerer, OR order an XL frame to make sure you have plenty of head tube. Although ordering a XL may be harder to resell.

 

[subspd]

Great suggestions guys. This may be my ticket to a FS 29er.

 

[mtnbikej]

You could either ask BD not to cut the steerer, OR order an XL frame to make sure you have plenty of head tube. Although ordering a XL may be harder to resell.

I am pretty sure that BD recieves the bikes with the steerer tube already cut and installed on the bikes. I highly doubt they are recieving frames and seperate build kits, then building them before they ship out. :thumbsup:

 

[schneidw]

Rear end bobs? First I have heard of it.

I don't want to start a flame war... do your research.. there is alot of discussion on teh Ventanta rear-end design on MTBR. Lets just say, its not for everybody.. from my interpretation, it is a glorified single pivot design... 4-bar really mean faux bar.. I purchased a Moots Cinco which has a Ventana rear triangle via eBay without ever riding the bike (stupid me).. what a horrible bike...as I stated earlier.. its a pogo stick.. I even had PUSH Industries rebuild the RP23 to improve the rebound-compression characteristcs.. in the end, the shock had to be dampened so significantly I essentially turned a 5 inch travel bike into a 3 inch travel bike that rode terribly.. poor traction and it still bobbed.. I was so happy to be rid of it...

As I said, to each their own.. alot of riders like the Ventana.. so take this as just one person's opinion...we all have different trails, riding styles etc... just do you research... it seems to me you are more focused on the price of the bike than the actual ride characteristics... Good [email protected]!

 

[richwolf]

I don't want to start a flame war... do your research.. there is alot of discussion on teh Ventanta rear-end design on MTBR. Lets just say, its not for everybody.. from my interpretation, it is a glorified single pivot design... 4-bar really mean faux bar.. I purchased a Moots Cinco which has a Ventana rear triangle via eBay without ever riding the bike (stupid me).. what a horrible bike...as I stated earlier.. its a pogo stick.. I even had PUSH Industries rebuild the RP23 to improve the rebound-compression characteristcs.. in the end, the shock had to be dampened so significantly I essentially turned a 5 inch travel bike into a 3 inch travel bike that rode terribly.. poor traction and it still bobbed.. I was so happy to be rid of it...

As I said, to each their own.. alot of riders like the Ventana.. so take this as just one person's opinion...we all have different trails, riding styles etc... just do you research... it seems to me you are more focused on the price of the bike than the actual ride characteristics... Good [email protected]!

Certainly has not been my experience and I actually own one. Comparing a 5 inch model of one bike to a 4 inch model of another bike even though they have a similar design is not a good comparison. I think the rear shock is the key to how it rides and how much bob you will experience. I replaced the manitou that is came with with a rockshox and I really like the bike. Most of the bob from the bike comes from the front fork in my opinion, so I got a fork where I can dial that out.
Best bet is to look at Voodoo Canzo reviews from people who actually own the bike to get an idea of what it is like.
It definitely is not a pogo stick.

 

[rodgerdodger]

I did this with an access XCL, and you need a bottom swing FD for the canzo.

 

[pimpbot]

It might!

So the front derailleur will work? huh?

Many derailleurs these days are 34.9mm diameter clamp, and they install them with shims down to other smaller sizes. 34.9mm is typical on aluminum frames that use a 31.6mm seatpost. Now, do you need a top clamp or low clamp derailleur... that's another worry.

You'll probably just have to get both bikes together, and do a strip on the Motobecane, do an assembly on the Canzo... make a list of parts you'll need to get at the LBS. You'll probably need to re-cable the derailleurs, too.

 

[subspd]

So is there any way to know if I will have enough length on the steerer? Would be a crying shame to not be able to use the fork... Ill make sure to pick up a new front derailleur.

 

[22Rowdy22]

I did this exactly, I had a XTR front der and a seat post on hand for the swap. I have since updated everything else and the only thing left from the donor (moto) is the brakes, rear der, and fork. Worked well as a donor outside of the seat post size being different.

 

[MagicCarpet]

Go to the spec list of both bikes and write down both head tube lengths. Make a sound estimate of how much you'd like exposed on the Canzo and ask BD how much they leave on the donor bike's steerer.

Add the head tube length of the Canzo to how much you want exposed.

Add the head tube length of the donor to how much BD say is exposed.

The first figure must be greater than the second.

 

[aa240sx]

I did that to build my Big Mama. It was a good way to get it together quick, but now that I've replaced the wheels, tires, crank, headset, bars, stem, I wonder if I would've been better off to build from scratch so I only bought parts once. On the other hand, I've got some spare parts now.

Be sure to check out the steerer tube length on the size you buy so you get one long enough for your new frame.

Yeah, I totally relate to these sentiments. Just three weeks ago, I put together my frankenbike from an eBay bianchi sok and a massive hookup diamondback 2010 overdrive pro and an xt drivetrain that I pretty much got for free. Great build with the Reba sl and wtb all mountain 29er rims, but you are right. It's not enough to keep me happy. Already I've upgraded the mech avid disc brakes to elixirs and now I'm waiting for truvativ stylo teams to replace the truvative five d.

However, there's always someone out there that needs your spare parts. To me half the fun is speccing parts and selling the old stuff, just have patience and faith.

 

[Magilla_Guerrilla]

Wow schneidw, way to put in 2c which isn't worth half that.

I had to go back and read the posts again to see where the reference to the Ventana was. Guess I missed it.

Not sure if you've actually ridden a Canzo, but the rear suspension performs very well. Almost (but not quite) as the maestro suspension on my Giant Trance.

I have the 2011 frame with the RT3 which may bias my opinion, but there is almost zero bob with propedal on, and very little with it off. Joe Murray and the Voodoo crew have done an excellent job, as usual.