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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm loving the Alfine 8 on my 29er, but am also intrigued by the White Bros Dingle set up ...2 rings on front and 2 cogs on back with 2 teeth difference at each end so can do commute and unloaded trail riding in higher ratio, and change to lower ratio for extended climbs and loaded touring.

Not sure if do-able on rear cog because of shifter small parts getting in the way.

Just wondered if anyone has experimented.
 

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I've run 2 chain rings with my Alfine 8 for quite a while. It gives me spread of ratios that I need.

I'd say it's just about impossible to use 2 cogs as there's only room for 1 to mounted to the hub.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've run 2 chain rings with my Alfine 8 for quite a while. It gives me spread of ratios that I need.

I'd say it's just about impossible to use 2 cogs as there's only room for 1 to mounted to the hub.

Tim
How do you take up slack...sliding drop out or jockey wheel?

My frame has vertical dropouts and EBB so would need the double sprocket on the hub.

I'm not sure but wondered if with a lathe and welder, that a Surly Dingle could be fitted with an Alfine cog centre
 

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As you suggest the shifting mechanism is attached outboard of the sprocket and I think any twin cog will interfere with this. I run the alfine dual jockey wheel tensioner mounted on the hanger and it works well.

Tim
 

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meh... whatever
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How do you take up slack...sliding drop out or jockey wheel?

My frame has vertical dropouts and EBB so would need the double sprocket on the hub.

I'm not sure but wondered if with a lathe and welder, that a Surly Dingle could be fitted with an Alfine cog centre
wow.... you're talking about a LOT of work. for what???

if you want more gearing options with your alfine check out the metropolis patterson crank.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
wow.... you're talking about a LOT of work. for what???

if you want more gearing options with your alfine check out the metropolis patterson crank.

1672 grams + $???? + cables, shifters etc. If dollars and weight were not an issue, then the schlumpf drive would be an option.

For someone with a welder and lathe, welding an Alfine cog to a Dingle would be easy and very little cost or weight...no shifters and using a hub that has been proven trail capable.

Clearance for the shifter parts is the main hurdle
 

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1672 grams + $???? + cables, shifters etc. If dollars and weight were not an issue, then the schlumpf drive would be an option.

For someone with a welder and lathe, welding an Alfine cog to a Dingle would be easy and very little cost or weight...no shifters and using a hub that has been proven trail capable.

Clearance for the shifter parts is the main hurdle
ime people with IGH generally arent weight weenies to begin with.

i was assuming the goal was to be able to shift up and down on the fly, which was why i didnt mention the schlumpf. (yeah, yeah, yeah.... the assume cliche) if so, then you're STILL going to have a rear der, shifters, and cables which would lessen the weight penalty of the metropolis, and it kind of precludes using the schlumpf. if not, and the goal was to ride to the trailhead on one cog and manually move the chain to the other then my bad for the assumption and i should have clarified first.

the metropolis crank is not that expensive whereas the schlumpf is. and from what i understand from those who've installed them the bb shell must be chamfered to use the schlumpf - not so on the metropolis.

the metropolis offers a much larger gearing range (1.6) verses just a couple of teeth on a rear cog. so effectively one would only be picking up a couple of teeth with a dingle on the low end rather than a 1.6 reduction with the metropolis. so although not an inordinate amount of work for someone with a lathe and welder overall i'd suggest it's a LOT of work just to pick up a couple of teeth lower that one has to manually swap at the trailhead.

i wouldn't see clearance being an issue with a dingle cog since belt drive cogs are wider than dingles and they clear the shifty bits just fine.
 

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My gut would say not to do it, as the sprocket carrier and shift mechanism are pretty sensitive to misalignment. Best case scenario I could see would be dishing one of the sprockets out around the shift mechanism and bending the cable stop arm slightly to avoid the teeth. If you are going to go ahead anyway, make sure the spring clip fully meshes into the hub... It takes a pretty phenomenal amount of force from regular use.

Otherwise, if you are looking for something ready made, check out Sturmey-Archer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My gut would say not to do it, as the sprocket carrier and shift mechanism are pretty sensitive to misalignment. Best case scenario I could see would be dishing one of the sprockets out around the shift mechanism and bending the cable stop arm slightly to avoid the teeth. If you are going to go ahead anyway, make sure the spring clip fully meshes into the hub... It takes a pretty phenomenal amount of force from regular use.

Otherwise, if you are looking for something ready made, check out Sturmey-Archer.
Which reminds me that you could use the Sturmey Archer SX3 fixed hub with the White bros double cog freewheel for a cool set up and still avoid the derailleur...would this be more durable in the off road use than a standard 3 speed SA...avoid all those broken pawls

Unfortunately for me...this is all academic at moment as need to put my spare cash towards some new wheels

Would love to know if anyone out there has tried any of this.
 
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