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defender of bad taste
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I think you're missing a part - a small barrel with grub screw that hold the cable end. I have a similar cam on an old Marzocchi XCR somewhere - i'll try to find it and photo it for you.
 
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not the exact same thing but same principle. you're missing a barrel shaped stop for the cable housing that sits in the "hook" on the right side. the cable continues to the right (viewed from the front) brake arm. another short straddle cable goes from the left anchor to the left brake arm.

 
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back then Rock Shox explicitly warned to NOT bolt anything else than a reflector or maybe mud guard holder onto those braces. they are not designed to withstand the forces such a brake cable hanger applies to them.
 

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Gigantic Hawk
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1,752 Posts
^^^^
Oh I know. I did some research first. The castings are almost the same as the ones with the built in cable holder, and every lbs in town has never seen a broken arch due to such setups. Many of them actually sold cable hangers to bolt onto Judies back in the day. I might actually get a brake brace so that I can extend the pivot straight across to minimize twisting the arch.

If anybody has pics of broken arches, I'd love to see them.
 

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defender of bad taste
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1,600 Posts
Carsten said:
back then Rock Shox explicitly warned to NOT bolt anything else than a reflector or maybe mud guard holder onto those braces. they are not designed to withstand the forces such a brake cable hanger applies to them.
Sounds like the kind of law-suit pre-empting that has become commonplace in the bike industries - my personal favourite being the current WTB wheelsets that advise the rider to check the spoke tension before each ride - because of course everyone has a tension meter kicking around, or the ability only usually credited to expert wheelbuilders to judge tension by feel.
 

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Neo-Retro Forever
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1,576 Posts
mechagouki said:
Sounds like the kind of law-suit pre-empting that has become commonplace in the bike industries - my personal favourite being the current WTB wheelsets that advise the rider to check the spoke tension before each ride - because of course everyone has a tension meter kicking around, or the ability only usually credited to expert wheelbuilders to judge tension by feel.
The early Rock Shox forks had a 5mm hole tapped into the arch that went to about 8mm deep. It was not strong enough to hold one of those brake pivots.

That one on the purple fork may be one of the 6mm holes that went right through the arch, or it has been modified, from the look of the pivot bolt.

The arch of the FSX is designed specifically for that brake pivot. You basically just bolt it through the hole with everything in front of the fork except for a washer and nylock nut, which hold it on from the back
 

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Gigantic Hawk
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1,752 Posts
Yes, my brace has a through hole on it. The arch does flex slightly when the brake force is over applied. Does this concern me? Yes and no. I do plan to add a brake brace to the posts to allow me to extend the pivot bolt across. This will prevent the bolt from twisting the arch. I am not afraid to ride the bike until this mod takes place though.

I would suggest taking a similar route with your arch too. My reasoning is that since it is made of aluminum, eventually it'll crack or snap.

All I had has the Cannondale Force 40 plastic piece to start. I used an old brake post from my broken Quadra as a pivot (it's a perfect fit.) I added nylon washers to space the Force 40, and to give a non marring backing to the post and the nut holding it on. Make sure the whole unit is greased, and it's good to go.

You can get a cable knarp from Sheldon Brown's site to use on the cam you pictured. If you would like better pics of my setup, let me know.
 
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