[Nubster]

I have a wheels set on my Kona single speed that's 142x12 and 100mm front. To save money and get my new single speed bike on the trail sooner, I was thinking about adapting the current wheel set to boost. The hubs are Hope Pro 2 EVO. And I was also thinking about getting a Hope Pro 4 Trials hub for the new bike once I have the extra cash to build a new wheel set but that hub only comes in 142x12 as well. The adapter kit will work on both hubs so I'd only have to buy one kit. for the rear and I'll just buy a proper boost front hub. Kit includes end caps and a brake disc spacer and longer screws.

My question is just whether or not anyone has had issues using an adapted 142x12 hub on a boost bike or should I just save and get a boost rear hub for the new wheel set? I'm looking at an I9 hub if I do that but I can almost build the entire Hope Pro 4 wheel set for just the cost of a rear I9 hub.

 

[NYrr496]

I used a Wolftooth adapter on a Hope hub for about a year when I first built my Krampus. Worked great. Did the front too. 100 to 110.

 

[Nubster]

I wonder what the difference is between the WT and the Hope...WT has one end cap and the Hope kit has 2. I mean I assume they end up working out the same. Looks like with 2 caps it allows for a thinner disc spacer.

I'll do the front as well with the old wheel set but if I get the trials rear hub and adapt it I'll get a proper boost front at least. I guess if the adapted wheels are working out there's not much good reason to not save up longer and just get the I9 rear hub in boost. But I'm kinda cheap so I do hate to spend that extra money. Maybe I can score something used between now and then.

 

[Carl Mega]

I did a proper conversion of my beloved Hadley rear hub and no regrets. It's a tidy kit and I think hope does something similar.

 

[JMac47]

I wonder what the difference is between the WT and the Hope...WT has one end cap and the Hope kit has 2. I mean I assume they end up working out the same. Looks like with 2 caps it allows for a thinner disc spacer.

I'll do the front as well with the old wheel set but if I get the trials rear hub and adapt it I'll get a proper boost front at least. I guess if the adapted wheels are working out there's not much good reason to not save up longer and just get the I9 rear hub in boost. But I'm kinda cheap so I do hate to spend that extra money. Maybe I can score something used between now and then.

Wondering if the WT only has the one cap so you dont have to redish the wheel?

I'm in the same dilemma of moding my nicer e13 142 wheels to use on a new bike that has boost. Only hesitation is they arent as wide of a rim as the 30's on new bike.

 

[NYrr496]

Yeah. I had to dish my wheels to use the WT kits. I liked it better that way because I didn't have any loose sleeves. The spacer popped into the hub just like a Hope cap.
The rear too... Rotor spacer and end cap on the NDS only and the cassette was exactly where it belonged in reference to the frame. When I did finally build a wheelset with Boost hubs, they dropped right in and I didn't have to adjust anything.

 

[Jayem]

Boost adapters work great. I use the symmetrical ones so I don't have to re-dish my wheel and can maintain the same wheel integrity I built in the first place. The fact that there are two spacers is a very minor concern to me, has never been an issue. I found that the rear derailleur operates just fine still, this also has the effect of keeping my rear cassette in the exact same place as before, so no need for a boost crankset/chainring obviously.

 

[Nubster]

Went ahead and ordered the Hope adapter kits front and rear and a new chainring. Hoping to have it all by end of the week so maybe I can put the new bike together for a ride this weekend.

 

[Jayem]

Went ahead and ordered the Hope adapter kits front and rear and a new chainring. Hoping to have it all by end of the week so maybe I can put the new bike together for a ride this weekend.

Why a chainring? If the spacers are symmetrical, there is no need for a "boost" crankset or chainring, as the cassette is still in the same location. Even with non-symmetrical spacers that push the cassette out a bit, it's arguable whether you really need a boost ring when you spend most of the time in climbing gears.

 

[Lone Rager]

^^^ yeah. I run normal offset rings on boost bikes as it slightly favors the lower gears which get the most wear and tear, by far. It's something that Wolftooth recommends. If doing so on a boost bike, make sure there's enough clearance between the ring and chainstay.