Anyone know the weight of a stock large 5C?
sorry to resurrect an old post, but I was wondering if you had any advice how to set up dynamic sag like you mention, I set my static sag around 25-30% all the time but suspect it settles much lower than that when I ride based on how often I have been pedal striking.BB height is directly (although not necessarily linearly) related to sag....increase sag%, decrease BB height, pedal bash rocks. It has absolutely nothing to do with spring rates.
The graph of the regressive initial spring rate does represent why this bike pedals so much better with a significantly lower initial sag: re: 25% or less. The problem people are having with this setup is that they're running too much sag, blowing through travel, and trying to compensate with volume reducers. It only has 130mm of travel out back, its not supposed to be downhill bike mushy/plushy - this bike is meant to be pedaled, through crap, uphill.
If you set this bike up with 30% sag (static), but go ride around a smooth parking lot while filming the sag gauge, this bike settles into a dynamic sag in the 40% territory almost immediately. This slackens out your seat tube angle significantly, making it pedal like $h!t with a wandering front end, you blow through your travel, and get that wallowy feel mid stroke when railing turns. Up your pressure and film your sag gauge while riding till you're around 30-25% dynamic sag, loose the volume reducers, add a few click of rebound, and go climb the bejesus out of anything. I'm a big dude, carrying a heavy, prepper worthy camelback, riding fast and hard, and might blow through travel every other ride. I get really close every ride, but not all the way through unless I'm hitting bigger stuff.
If you up the pressure and keep a huge stack of volume reducers in, you're going to get a brutal ride. My $.02, but air is free, try some more...you might like it.
Not a bad idea but that inner tube in addition to any dust underneath it while moving as much as it does will rub through that paint in no timeI added and tested a level link protector flap. So far so good.
On two occasions I got rocks trapped into the recess of the lower linkage that then were pushed into the frame by the motion of the rear suspension. After the first one I applied some VW Tornado Red touchup paint and then covered the area with a rectangular clear frame protector strip. This past weekend I noticed that my protector strip was all mangled from another rock incident and decided I needed a better solution.
I cut an old tube about 6 inches long by 2 inches wide. I then cut holes in the ends and zip tied it around the black linkage piece. I made sure to also add another protector piece to avoid zip tie damage. I trimmed the tube around the rear triangle attachment points and went for a ride.
I was worried the flap would move around while riding but on my first 12 mile ride this did not happen. I took this idea from DW Link bikes. Should work for mud too.
Did this just the past weekend, actually pulled all linkage bolts and cleaned/greased everything. Was good for a bit, went riding again today and now it is creaking again. Thinking maybe the creak is coming from somewhere else? I could have sworn it was the front shock mount, or maybe the rear one, but I cleaned and greased the **** out of them and torqued them both to spec.I recently got the shock creak, here is how I resolved it.
Pull the shock mounting bolts, I did top and bottom. Apply liberal amounts of grease to the mounting bolts, between the bolt and recessed washer, between the washer and frame & shock and frame. Torque everything back up to spec and wipe off excess grease. Good luck. :thumbsup:
View attachment 1206331