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on the 5c, what sag % are people running with the dpx2? I was at about 30% which I know is what Eric Porter suggested (30% front and rear, I believe). At 30% I was about 1PSI/lb body weight (180psi) and getting a ton of unexpected rock strikes.

I bumped the psi up to 210 (~25% sag) and no more rock strikes really, definitely felt more firm but did not use anywhere near the full travel at the end of a long, rocky ride. Felt odd to put that much pressure in the shock, but I was sitting at a reasonable sag level!

Anyone have any suggestions on what has worked well for them?
 

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BB height is directly (although not necessarily linearly) related to sag....increase sag%, decrease BB height, pedal bash rocks. It has absolutely nothing to do with spring rates.

The graph of the regressive initial spring rate does represent why this bike pedals so much better with a significantly lower initial sag: re: 25% or less. The problem people are having with this setup is that they're running too much sag, blowing through travel, and trying to compensate with volume reducers. It only has 130mm of travel out back, its not supposed to be downhill bike mushy/plushy - this bike is meant to be pedaled, through crap, uphill.

If you set this bike up with 30% sag (static), but go ride around a smooth parking lot while filming the sag gauge, this bike settles into a dynamic sag in the 40% territory almost immediately. This slackens out your seat tube angle significantly, making it pedal like $h!t with a wandering front end, you blow through your travel, and get that wallowy feel mid stroke when railing turns. Up your pressure and film your sag gauge while riding till you're around 30-25% dynamic sag, loose the volume reducers, add a few click of rebound, and go climb the bejesus out of anything. I'm a big dude, carrying a heavy, prepper worthy camelback, riding fast and hard, and might blow through travel every other ride. I get really close every ride, but not all the way through unless I'm hitting bigger stuff.

If you up the pressure and keep a huge stack of volume reducers in, you're going to get a brutal ride. My $.02, but air is free, try some more...you might like it.
sorry to resurrect an old post, but I was wondering if you had any advice how to set up dynamic sag like you mention, I set my static sag around 25-30% all the time but suspect it settles much lower than that when I ride based on how often I have been pedal striking.
 

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I added and tested a level link protector flap. So far so good.

On two occasions I got rocks trapped into the recess of the lower linkage that then were pushed into the frame by the motion of the rear suspension. After the first one I applied some VW Tornado Red touchup paint and then covered the area with a rectangular clear frame protector strip. This past weekend I noticed that my protector strip was all mangled from another rock incident and decided I needed a better solution.

I cut an old tube about 6 inches long by 2 inches wide. I then cut holes in the ends and zip tied it around the black linkage piece. I made sure to also add another protector piece to avoid zip tie damage. I trimmed the tube around the rear triangle attachment points and went for a ride.

I was worried the flap would move around while riding but on my first 12 mile ride this did not happen. I took this idea from DW Link bikes. Should work for mud too.

Cheers!
 

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I added and tested a level link protector flap. So far so good.

On two occasions I got rocks trapped into the recess of the lower linkage that then were pushed into the frame by the motion of the rear suspension. After the first one I applied some VW Tornado Red touchup paint and then covered the area with a rectangular clear frame protector strip. This past weekend I noticed that my protector strip was all mangled from another rock incident and decided I needed a better solution.

I cut an old tube about 6 inches long by 2 inches wide. I then cut holes in the ends and zip tied it around the black linkage piece. I made sure to also add another protector piece to avoid zip tie damage. I trimmed the tube around the rear triangle attachment points and went for a ride.

I was worried the flap would move around while riding but on my first 12 mile ride this did not happen. I took this idea from DW Link bikes. Should work for mud too.

Cheers!
Not a bad idea but that inner tube in addition to any dust underneath it while moving as much as it does will rub through that paint in no time

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

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This was my first (rushed) attempt, and I think with some more detail cutting and frame protectors, rubbing won't be an issue. I am less worried about cosmetic damage over time than I am about catastrophic damage from a pointy rock and a big hit. 2x in 2 weeks is enough for me to know it is only a matter of time.
 

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I had some bad creaking in the frame after my first couple rides on my 5c, retorqued and lubed the shock mount bolts as I read here that was often a culprit and I thought the upper shock mount was where the creak was coming from. First ride after doing this the creak went away but now on the next ride its back! If I loosen up the shock mount bolts quite a bit the creaking goes away mostly...but its so hard to track down for sure where it is coming from. It seems to mostly creak when the rear compresses, I don't think it is coming from the front/headset but at this point I don't know. Anyone have any experience? Any advice appreciated!
 

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The creak on mine was coming from the top shock mount as you suspected on yours. It did come back about three weeks later and I re-greased it. So far it is silent. I would recommend servicing all the pivot points though. Mine were rather dry. I made a video of servicing the pivot points on my 4C on YT.
https://youtu.be/wtpT650MobU
 

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After careful consideration and researching other lower link protection, I decided to change things up and go with some good ol Gorilla Tape. I made a paper template then cut it out. There is still a clear piece of frame tape on the seat tube with a gap between it and the black tape. No overlapping material and no chance for frame rubbing.

Test day tomorrow.

On another note, I dropped a chain shifting into the 50 last week. I ordered the MRP AMg V2 and hope to have it installed this week. My last bike had the top guide only and I didn't drop a chain with it. I also like the idea of the bash guard with the low BB.
 

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6 DH runs later the protector emerged slightly scathed. There was a small tear on the unsupported inner edge of the linkage. However, the seat tube had no damage.

For V3 I will be adding layers of Gorilla Tape in the same shape. Possibly with a thin piece east to west to strengthen the span.
 

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I had not really considered that and may end up adding that to V4 now that you bring it up. That piece would have to be either elastic or long enough to accommodate the movement of the suspension.

For now I removed the V2 piece and used it as a template for my 3 layer V3 piece. Hopefully have the bike back Wednesday for testing.
 

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I recently got the shock creak, here is how I resolved it.

Pull the shock mounting bolts, I did top and bottom. Apply liberal amounts of grease to the mounting bolts, between the bolt and recessed washer, between the washer and frame & shock and frame. Torque everything back up to spec and wipe off excess grease. Good luck. :thumbsup:

View attachment 1206331
Did this just the past weekend, actually pulled all linkage bolts and cleaned/greased everything. Was good for a bit, went riding again today and now it is creaking again. Thinking maybe the creak is coming from somewhere else? I could have sworn it was the front shock mount, or maybe the rear one, but I cleaned and greased the **** out of them and torqued them both to spec.

Not sure if I need to go through the headset and/or seatpost now to try to find it...any one have any tips? It seems to mostly be present when climbing uphill but I can replicate the sound when standing and bouncing on the suspension sometimes, but that may just be because thats when it is easiest to hear. Might be happening while descending too but not loud enough to hear over the hub and wind.
 
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