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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bushings. Should I clean or replace bushings? What about reassembly, what's the correct torque? Maybe it says this stuff in the manual, if I can find it. Two years of heavy riding, a few months ago I sprayed with Tri-Flow, and wow things felt much smoother. But, that attracts dirt and noise, so now I'm spraying pivots about once a month. I should probably clean these the proper way.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
In particular...

OK I'll give myself some air time.

What torque should the pivot bolts be set at? I at least can just check torque on the pivot that's complaining right now, the non-drive side just above the BB.

Anyone know what bushings they use? A kit from the RMB dealer is $25! I think we can figure out compatible bushings for dollars.

And I thought this was a rear hub problem all along.

Thanks...
 

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I don't know...

jonny boy said:
OK I'll give myself some air time.

What torque should the pivot bolts be set at? I at least can just check torque on the pivot that's complaining right now, the non-drive side just above the BB.

Anyone know what bushings they use? A kit from the RMB dealer is $25! I think we can figure out compatible bushings for dollars.

And I thought this was a rear hub problem all along.

Thanks...
I haven't touched my 02 slayer yet. There really doesn't seem to be an obvious need yet. Rm's bushings are all sealed right? Mine seem to stay tight and there aren't any creaks. Personally, if you want to change them, I think you should go with the RM kit. Takes the guessing away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
General guidelines and some specifics

I talked to Scott at Rocky Mtn, here is the summary if anyone is interested. This is for 2001 Element Race.

Torque
Mounts around shock 120 in/lbs
"M-6" bolts: chainstay, seatstay, 3D-Link 80 in/lbs
"M-8" bolt main BB pivot 240 in/lbs

They officially recommend NO lube. Replace every year (that could get costly). A little blue loctite on the bolts if necessary.
 

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Any updates?

I have a 2001 element and the pivots squeak louder than a Motel-6 bed on the first day of shore leave! It's so bad I'm riding my hardtail because I can't take the noise. This bike has chronically had this problem.

I don't ride the MTB that often as I'm mostly a roadie, but that 2X monthly off-road ride never happens on the Rocky becase of this. SO, the pivots aren't beat up or over-worked.

I've changed them once already and that made the problem worse. I'm probably going to pull them, wipe them clean with rubbing alcohol and a light Tri-Flow grease and re-assemble.

Should I? They're teflon, right? That shouldn't have any compatibility problems.
 

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Check shock reducers first

Usually, the problem are not the frame pivots itself but the shock reducers turning against the frame instead of against the shock eyelet.

Specifically, the rear reducer wears out pretty fast because it get's rotated a lot. Try pulling both reducers, grease them and switch them out (front one goes to the back and back one to the front). You have to make sure that there's absolutely no grease between the frame and the reducer!

Braumeister
 

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I think you've got it!

Braumeister said:
Usually, the problem are not the frame pivots itself but the shock reducers turning against the frame instead of against the shock eyelet.

Specifically, the rear reducer wears out pretty fast because it get's rotated a lot. Try pulling both reducers, grease them and switch them out (front one goes to the back and back one to the front). You have to make sure that there's absolutely no grease between the frame and the reducer!

Braumeister
My bud loaned me / wanted to sell me a cane creek to replace the Fox. I was trying to remove the shock pivots from the Fox; they were in there really good. I did get them out with a wide blade screwdriver and installed the cane creek. I didn't care for it; kept bottoming it out (I weigh 230lbs) and didn't notice any improvement vs. the OEM Fox. I switched back and gave him the Cane Creek back.

Short story long: I probably overtightened the bolts forcing the frame eyelet against the bushing. I'll take apart and re-assemble and see what happens.

Thanks.

Dave
 

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Replacing Bushings

I had a 1999 Elelment TO which I built up then and I just sold it this past spring. I sweigh 160 lbs. and I had only replaced the bushing's twice. The Fox bushing's were done three time's, and they were always showing the most wear. The small bushing's on the seat stay's always seemed to have the least amount of wear, with the large bushing on the 3-D Link and the bottom bracket showed considerably more wear. Initially I hade a problem with the bottom bracket bolt always backing off and the Rocky Rep went to my LBS and re reamed the bottom bracket area so the metal sleeve could rotate more freely. To undo the bolts on the lower bushings (bottom bracket) remove the screw on the underside of the bottom bracket and insert an awl through the hole until it makes contact with the hole that is in the metal sleeve. You then can remove both bolts holding the chain stays onto the frame. I have always used the RM bushing kit, because at the time there were no bushings in that size I needed at bearing supply stores. Use a srewdriver to remove the old bushings, and go gently, as you might have to force them out from the inside. When replacing the bushings in the Fox shock do not hesitate in finding some one with a bearing press if you do not have proper sized items around your work shop to push the old sleeves out. You do not want to damage the Fox shock. It is not a big operation to change the bushings, just use some common sense, and and clean the surfaces where the bushing's make contact with during assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Bought the bushings and bolts MINUS the axels for $42 locally

Severum said:
Jonny boy - what shop can get you bushings for $25. Is that thier normal price?

Did you ever have any luck finding compatible bushings?

Thanks
Louis
I was tired of waiting for the LBS to get the bushings in stock, so I called around to all the local RM shops and found one with a compatible kit. They recommended replacing the axels as well; that would have brought it up to the $75 price. Next time.

The axels are pretty well protected, by the bushings themselves, and they didn't show much wear, so I don't see a need to replace these every 1-2 years.

I decided I didn't have time or expertise in locating cheaper replacements. But I did keep the old ones, so that maybe one day I could try to match.

And this made a HUGE difference in ride quality! It was like a brand new bike. Much better small bump swallowing.

Thanks all...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Can't guess at how many miles

Many. I ride year-round here in Colorado. My slowest week would be 1 lunchtime road ride for about 12-15 miles. Busiest week could be 3 road rides, plus a ride on the weekend. With camping trips out to Moab, Crested Butte, blah blah... all Spring, Summer, Fall, lots of miles.

I'm a lighter rider, about 150 lbs, but I'm not easy on my gear.

That was over two years use before I noticed stiff suspension, and squirted lube on the pivots. Felt great for a couple rides, then I spent months trying to solve a non-existent hub problem, which turned out to be a loose BB pivot.

This is a very dry and sunny environment, that could result in the bushings hardening up quicker; but also since I don't do many wet/muddy rides the bushings might receive less wear than other parts of the continent.
 

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Did that fix it?

pitt83 said:
My bud loaned me / wanted to sell me a cane creek to replace the Fox. I was trying to remove the shock pivots from the Fox; they were in there really good. I did get them out with a wide blade screwdriver and installed the cane creek. I didn't care for it; kept bottoming it out (I weigh 230lbs) and didn't notice any improvement vs. the OEM Fox. I switched back and gave him the Cane Creek back.

Short story long: I probably overtightened the bolts forcing the frame eyelet against the bushing. I'll take apart and re-assemble and see what happens.

Thanks.

Dave
Hey Dave,

I'm having a similar squeaking issue with my Element, and I also removed the Fox shock recently. Did you determine that the problem was indeed overtight bolts?
 

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Nope, it's a total POS!!

Lestonian said:
Hey Dave,

I'm having a similar squeaking issue with my Element, and I also removed the Fox shock recently. Did you determine that the problem was indeed overtight bolts?
Anyone want this POS!!! I'm going to put it in the recycle bin and make beer cans out of it. I have tried repeatedly, took it to the shop and still, it screams when I ride it. I'll ride the hardtail; thank you very much!

Problems like these are tough. You shouldn't have to work this hard for a simple squeak.
 
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