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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ever wonder what the best treatment for the insides of your chromoly steel frame would be?

Were about to find out!

Special thanks to Walt, Waltworks Custom Bicycles Bikes, recipes and ranting for sending me the chromoly tubing for this project.

Products tested include the following

product 1: Corrosion X HD

product 2: Frame Saver

product 3: WD-40 specialist long term corrosion inhibitor

product 4: Boeshield T-9

product 5: Amsoil Heavy duty metal protector

Product 6: Fluid Film

All products were bought with my own money. I am not affiliated with any of these companies.

Note: All products were applied throughly. First coat allowed to cure 24hrs. 2nd coat allowed to cure another 24 hrs.
All tubes were polished with a wire wheel and cleaned with alcohol before products were applied.

I will be spraying tubes with a saltwater solution and posting images of the mayhem as regularly as I can.

Which product do you think will be the winner?

Tune in to find out!
 

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I'm really hoping Frame Saver kicks ass as that's what's in all my frames.

How often will they get sprayed with salt water?
Are those little tubes behind the cans what your testing?
What steel tubing is being used? Are they all the same?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey OneSpeed


They will be evenly sprayed down once daily
All the tubes 1-6 are in order from left to right
Corresponding treatments a shown above
I will check with Walt on the tubing manuf.

Lol Mike:)

Yes peeing on them would really add to the excitement :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Let the mayhem begin: Day 1

Day 1

product 1: Corrosion X HD

product 2: Frame Saver

product 3: WD-40 specialist long term corrosion inhibitor

product 4: Boeshield T-9

product 5: Amsoil Heavy duty metal protector

Product 6: Fluid Film
 

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No doubt Walt uses a wide variety of tubing. Many of those could have very different corrosion resistance.

I'm afraid if you can't be sure they are all the exact same material, this will all have to be taken with a grain of salt. :rolleyes:
 

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I hope J.P. WEIGLE (FRAMESAVER) wins, 1, because my Waltworks has a lot of it in there and 2, because it cost me a fortune to get hold of! 

Subscribed Mikee, looking forward to the results...
 

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May I suggest adding two / three things?

(1) An example of mild steel, as it will rust more easily than the bicycle tubing. A common nail should work.

Would doing so, provide a base line?

(2) A hot parifin-minerial oil application. We went through this a short while ago in referance to chain lubes; a creative mind could come up with a method to apply the mix in a seat tube.

What is unknown...are all of the tubing examples of the same type? If not, it invalidates the experiment. If so...it needs to be stated to be sure we are comparing apples to apples.

Walt?

(3) Subject each example to a 'naked' salt exposure? While not necessary, it would point out just how effective each application substance is over none at all.

If these suggestions come a little late...not all is lost; for under the 'unknowns' the experiment still is pointing the reader in the right direction.

The effort is to be applauded!

@VB; you know under the temps Mike rides, he has to, from time to time, pee on his chain and derailleur to brake them free, adding a little salt, lowers the temp at which freezing will do so again; and you know, at freezing temps, his aim is not precise!

Well...that is an assumption made from personal experience...if...I can find it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes, I totally should have put an untreated piece up there...

Fwiw I did an experiment similar to this using roughly 20 different treatment methods, and i did use an untreated control piece in that test.

The best product from my first test however were unacceptable for use for bicycle frame tubing because the products would not spread once sprayed into a tube.

For example:
One of the leading products in my first test was called “5th wheel lube” nasty black stuff. I tried spraying it into a piece of pvc pipe to see what it would do.
It was so thick/gummy it just stuck right to where it was sprayed. So not ideal for bikes.

Sidenote: Considering what I learned from the first round of testing, I wanted to use products that were not “solvents”
Think firearms lube/cleaners
I wanted something that would coat tubes internally and then stay put!

My plan after discovering the winner is to flush out the tubes every 6-12 months with some sort of solvent/alcohol and then reapply the winning product. #healthytubes
 

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CorrosionX HD. My Surly frames are full of CorrosionX Marine which I believe is similar. I've been using it for years on ocean going offshore boats. Stuff is straight up good! A number of years ago, I saw a similar test done under similar conditions but with plate steel. There are a few new products out since but Boeshield was around as was the CorrosionX. They used standard WD40 back then and amazingly, it was very near the top of the list when it was all over.
 

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[email protected]; you know under the temps Mike rides, he has to, from time to time, pee on his chain and derailleur to brake them free, adding a little salt, lowers the temp at which freezing will do so again; and you know, at freezing temps, his aim is not precise! ...
At those temps, I'd be lucky to find something to aim with... :)
 

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product 5: Amsoil Heavy duty metal protector
That's my guess/hunch.
Never had a steel frame rust out. Just jet it with water to wash crap out. pull the seetpost to let dry and spray some crap in the vent holes now and again. Pulling the seat post often is probably the best, bb likes that also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hey Surly I Ride,

Yeah, galvanizing is a concept for sure.
I galvanized a set of motorcycle fenders years ago. I could be wrong but there may be certain challenges in galvanizing varieties of objects and shapes. It might be a good idea to consult with a pro on this one. Would be cool to send an old frame to get galvanized just for the hell of it.

Fwiw my Harley fenders, although now more corrosion resistant seemed weaker. This could have just been me though. Take this with a grain of salt.

Sidenote: In my first round of testing the number one product in corrosion prevention was POWDERCOAT.

Hands down!

All the other steel pieces were destroyed by corrosion and the powdered pieces looked good as new!

This may help readers of this thread torn between an old school paint job or a powdercoat.

I used multiple different enamel paints.
Waxed paints... Greased paints etc.

POWDERCOAT is KING
 

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Hey Surly I Ride,

Yeah, galvanizing is a concept for sure.
I galvanized a set of motorcycle fenders years ago. I could be wrong but there may be certain challenges in galvanizing varieties of objects and shapes. It might be a good idea to consult with a pro on this one. Would be cool to send an old frame to get galvanized just for the hell of it.

Fwiw my Harley fenders, although now more corrosion resistant seemed weaker. This could have just been me though. Take this with a grain of salt.

Sidenote: In my first round of testing the number one product in corrosion prevention was POWDERCOAT.

Hands down!

All the other steel pieces were destroyed by corrosion and the powdered pieces looked good as new!

This may help readers of this thread torn between an old school paint job or a powdercoat.

I used multiple different enamel paints.
Waxed paints... Greased paints etc.

POWDERCOAT is KING
Powder coat I have also found to be generally superior for corrosion resistance. Exception, on sharp edges it doesn't perform well as sides of tube & plate.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
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