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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Longtime lurker, first time poster.

I'm about to embark on my first DIY build, and I'm currently getting all of my materials together and wrapping my mind around the project. I'm trying to keep it fairly simple, so I'm doing a build similar to Troutie's Tesco torch mod, though with a few possibly unwise modifications.

Materials:
LED:
1x Cree MC-E series wired on 20mm Star from Cutter
Battery:
7.4v 4800mAh, 4x18650 2S/2P with Turboferret holder (or possibly 2x18650 for helmet mounting)
Driver:
TaskLED maxFlex
Switch:
APEM IPR3FAD (may change to a different switch and separate LED due to the depth needed)
Housing:
Task Force LED flashlight from Lowe's
Lens:
Ledil EVA-MC-D

Attached is my sketchy circuit diagram. If you see any problems or have any comments, let me know!

Cheers!
 

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I am doing the switch tango as well.

Still deciding on a push button or a tactile type. I favor the tactile for the small size generally. Some with LED built in I prefer but that may change...

When I have all my parts I will start the posting myself.

Happy DIYing OP!
 

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Hi!
I rode a 2x MC-E this fall and just to add my 2 cents, I would try to use another emitter on your ptoject...

The LED is plenty powerful but you will have a hard time finding an efficient optic, you will have a good handlebar light but if you want to make a helmet light I would look for something else...
 

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Billabang said:
The LED is plenty powerful but you will have a hard time finding an efficient optic, you will have a good handlebar light but if you want to make a helmet light I would look for something else...
Well, yes. Even EVA-SS is a medium-distance optics, but most of the time it's good enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replies!

OldMTBfreak said:
That should work fine.
Thanks, now my only real worry is fat fingering the build and frying the whole thing. I'm generally better at the planning stages than the actual execution.

jbflyfshr said:
I am doing the switch tango as well.
I was surprised by how many options there are for switches out there, but more surprised that I actually really care which one I use. Good luck with your build, I'll watch for the posts!

Billabang said:
Hi!
I rode a 2x MC-E this fall and just to add my 2 cents, I would try to use another emitter on your ptoject...
Itess said:
Well, yes. Even EVA-SS is a medium-distance optics, but most of the time it's good enough.
I appreciate this input, I know the MC-E has plenty of power but is difficult to get a lot of throw out of. I've actually ridden with a light with this same combination of MC-E / EVA lens and found the soft spot to be very nice to my eyes. Some of my riding buddies have P7 lights, and they definitely have a bit more throw and a brighter, tighter hotspot, but most of my local riding is twisty and tree-lined, so I find a wider hotspot with less throw to be fairly ideal. The only time I would be able to see 100' in front of me would be climbing up fire roads, when I don't really need that amount of throw.

Thanks for the comments, I'll post build picks as parts come in and I make the time to put it all together.
 

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emptyvoxel said:
I appreciate this input, I know the MC-E has plenty of power but is difficult to get a lot of throw out of. I've actually ridden with a light with this same combination of MC-E / EVA lens and found the soft spot to be very nice to my eyes. Some of my riding buddies have P7 lights, and they definitely have a bit more throw and a brighter, tighter hotspot, but most of my local riding is twisty and tree-lined, so I find a wider hotspot with less throw to be fairly ideal. The only time I would be able to see 100' in front of me would be climbing up fire roads, when I don't really need that amount of throw.

Thanks for the comments, I'll post build picks as parts come in and I make the time to put it all together.
Personally, I would go with EVA-SS, not EVA-D.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Itess said:
Personally, I would go with EVA-SS, not EVA-D.
I think we are talking about the same lens. On the preliminary product literature Ledil called them EVA-SS, -M, and -W. On the newer literature they're EVA-MC-D, -M, -W, and -WW. -SS and -D have the same Ledil order code.
 

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emptyvoxel said:
I think we are talking about the same lens. On the preliminary product literature Ledil called them EVA-SS, -M, and -W. On the newer literature they're EVA-MC-D, -M, -W, and -WW. -SS and -D have the same Ledil order code.
Oh, I see. Yes, you are right. When I bought mine it was called EVA-SS :)
 

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I use a similar set up for my lights, but use the CMC-RS and have a 11.1v battery.
Also, is there any advantage to using 3S2P as apposed to 2S2P? Other than the calculated 01:30 extra run time? ie. Less strain on the driver? I know you will be able to dim the light more on the 2S battery set up. I sell the ones in my avatar pic you see.
If there isnt, I can save two batteries from each build therefore saving some cash! I sell the ones in my avatar pic you see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
piesoup said:
I use a similar set up for my lights, but use the CMC-RS and have a 11.1v battery.
Also, is there any advantage to using 3S2P as apposed to 2S2P? Other than the calculated 01:30 extra run time? ie. Less strain on the driver? I know you will be able to dim the light more on the 2S battery set up. I sell the ones in my avatar pic you see.
If there isnt, I can save two batteries from each build therefore saving some cash! I sell the ones in my avatar pic you see.
An 11.1v battery will be more efficient than a 7.4v with the MaxFlex. Based on the information at the TaskLED site, probably around 3-5% more efficient. I think the primary benefit of a 3S2P battery is the extra run time, but I really don't need that extra 1:30 of light for my typical rides. If there's a time when I plan to be out for a really long ride, I'll throw an extra set of batteries in my Camelbak, but I don't want to carry around the extra weight for every ride if I don't need to.
I would consider a 3s1p if I didn't already have a 4 battery turboferret holder, might be a good compromise for helmet mounting too.
 

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3-5% less efficient, thats acceptable! I think I may go with the 7.4v in the future. Should still get at least two hours out of it. And I'll save two batteries in the process, sweet!
Looking forward to seeing your build
 

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Goldigger said:
Is it ideal to run 3S1P, I was under the impression it was bad for the 1 cell?
Or does this only count when charging?
If you can run 18650's 2500mah in 3S1P this will give me 11.1v 3333mah??
Yeah you can run 3S quite happily. Youre right, when charging you need to seperate the cells.
If you have 3x 18650 2500mAh batteries in series, you will have 11.1v nominal and 2500mAh.
If you have 3S2P, you will have double the capacity, ie. 5000mAh. But still 11.1v.

Connecting batteries in series, you add the voltage, capacity (mAh) remains the same.
Connecting batteries in parallel, you add the capacity and the voltage remains the same.
 

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I think there is a little confusion here. And yes, the cells in parallel must equal your cells in series.
3S1P is 3 cells end to end, in series.
3S2P is 6 cells total (3x2). You have 3 pairs of 2 cells. With this config, you have the same 11.1v, but have doubled the capacity.


For your setup you currently have 4S1P. To increase the runtime, you need 4S2P. So eight batteries in total.
Let me draw a quick picture, much easier to understand!
 
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