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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've been really impressed with the mega-power lights that some of you have made but my requirements are a little different. I need maximum run-time, the option to use li ion or AA batteries, a removeable rugged low profile mount, a switch that can be easily accessed, a design which can be used on the helmet or bars, and a waterproof battery pack which can be mounted on the stem or frame. The design had to be simple and easy to manufacture with the tools available; a drill, hacksaw, files, and soldering iron. This is what I came up with. It's basically a low profile Dinotte style light with a remote switch. Each light is probably about 160-80 lum and has a run-time of over 6 1/2hrs. Cost per light, including the 3.7 li ion battery and charger, came out to just under $30.

The bar lights are 15 degree floods and the helmet lights are 5degree spots. I usually run one of each for most of the local trails but can easily switch on the other lights for high speed sections.

The following parts were used to construct the lights:

P4 Seoul LEDS
Optics and holders from Ledsupply
Switches from Digikey
3256 driver from Dealextreme
3.7 6600mah batteries from All-Battery
Aluminum - from Online Metals
1 inch round tubing
1 inch square tubing
3/4 " " for the mount
22.2mm solid round rod
Misc.
Screws, nuts, and washers, O rings, Tamiya connectors, misc. wires, heat shrink, velcro, Plastidip, silicon gasket sealer, JB Weld, copper filings, and Omegatherm Thermal Paste.

The battery pack is made from a shortened military surplus decontamination kit and some scrap plastic.
 

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Nice design. I'm curious about the mount. It looks like it was made from the 3/4" square tubing. You carved that out with a file/hacksaw/drill? I'm impressed. Do you have any more pics of the light parts to show how you assembled it?

That's a really tight build.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The mount is 3/4" tubing and takes about 20 minutes to shape before it's ready to be dunked in Plastidip. The light body is held together and attached to the mount with one bolt and nut. I'm planning to beef up the design and build a few with XPE 20mm triples this fall for shorter rides.
 

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Bandolero
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That's my line

Nice lights and design.

Is there any reason why you didn't put the switch inline with the power cable for the helmet mount lights? It'd be one less thing to solder and have dangling around.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I designed the lights to be interchangeable between the bars and helmet with the exception of the mounts. I also wanted to keep the cost down so I used the Digikey switches. The next lights will be built specifically for helmet use and have the same remote switch design but with longer wiring so that the switches can be attached lower and close to my right ear. The current design works really well but the lower mount will be even easier to find and use.
 

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12wheels said:
The mount is 3/4" tubing and takes about 20 minutes to shape before it's ready to be dunked in Plastidip. The light body is held together and attached to the mount with one bolt and nut. I'm planning to beef up the design and build a few with XPE 20mm triples this fall for shorter rides.
Thanks!

I may have to steal your design for my light. :ihih: Right now I'm using a Cateye system and while it is a good, versatile system it lacks the stability that I'd like for my beefy light.



It may work for your lights since they're nice 'n small.
 

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Your o-ring / handlebar mount design fabricated from the square tubing is genius! Definitely going to borrow that one!
 

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sorry to bring an old thread back to life, bit of a newbie question,

but where can i get switches like this to mount on the handlebars?
cheers!
 

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King Kasper said:
sorry to bring an old thread back to life, bit of a newbie question,

but where can i get switches like this to mount on the handlebars?
cheers!

You can make you own switch easily by getting a momentary tactile SPNO switch and mounting it in some heatshrink tube to make it waterproof. You only need 2 wires soldered onto the legs ot the switch and presto, you have a remote switch. Total cost is about $2 (my tactiles cost 0.29c each)

Jaycar sells the part # SP0609 or SP0608
 

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Lets RIDE!
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If I recall, one of our fellow forum members here was selling those switches. And I'll probably get his screen name wrong....E134?
 
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