[mtnbkrdr98]

Hi,

I just swapped parts from Xtc1 Hardtail to an AnthemX 29er frameset.

Really like the Anthem 29er but it's steep, 71 deg head angle is causing confidence problems --such as coming down a somewhat steep river bank onto rock creek crossings, and where there is just a bit of an abrupt transition, carrying speed onto rock piles, and going down rock drops, including uneven ribbons of rock that are a bit off camber, but that speed should carry you through. Stuff I can easily ride when I'm confident, and have.

Right now, I don't trust the front end and feel like it's gonna catch and throw me OTB. In fact, I've caught myself a few times--so on the more technical trails, I'm riding really conservative, and walking sections, which is NOT what it's all about!

I have the fork set with the proper sag, and have a low rise bar installed after the pictures here, and I usually drop my seat down to ride steeper downhill, or on tech stuff--again like rock piles over creeks, rock drop downs, etc... just, more confident that way and easier to move around and get weight back.


So, would a 120 be the way to go? I read it slackens it by about a degree. (Giant's pro rider Adam Craig)

I see some good deals on ebay-and have asked the seller some questions, because some of them are in China, and asking only about $500 for forks that are going for around $800 retail (expensive) for the taper and 15mm QR.

Or spend less money and go with an angleset?

Does anyone know exactly how much a 120 will slacken it? Who's riding one and can you give a report/impressions please?


Other than that, it's a beauty of a bike! Absolute joy to pedal, smooth, fast, good fit, and looks sweet!

Thanks!

 

[gvs_nz]

try a shorter stem and wider riser bars level with the seat. Change your seatpost to one that will get the seat back more. plenty of scope to change your set up. Steering on Ax is already slow without 120mm fork or slacker angle.Are you trying to squeeze in to too small a frame?

 

[dimitrin]

+1 on the riser bars, the bike shop fitted those before I took it home. I've ordered a 120mm Dual air Reba RLT ti for mine. I plan on a wider riser bar and shorter stem to help quicken it. I blew through the full 100 mm of travel on a couple of rides and didn't want to up the air pressure any further.
I hope that works out.
I'm not sure if the angle set works in this head set. If it does and you aren't maxing out your travel, that may be a good option.
BTW- Bikewagon.com has new 2011 Reba 120's for 449.

 

[dimitrin]

You can also try sliding the seat as far back on the rails as possible. I have my grips currently almost an inch above my seat.

 

[jeffj]

If he is up off the saddle on steep technical sections (as he should be IMHO), I don't see how moving the saddle back in the rails will be of any help with the issue he is having.

Just curious why two posters have suggested that for these situations?

==========================================

I would set saddle height, angle, fore/aft position for your best pedaling comfort and efficiency and then lower it (out of the way) if you have to for technical sections (sounds like to OP is already doing that).

If you encounter a lot of these situations and don't like stopping to lower the saddle, you might look into an adjustable seatpost. It will lower out of the way at the push of a button, and raise back up again (with only another push of a button and easing up off the saddle briefly) after the tech section.

==========================================

As for the OP's question, I think I would try the angleset first as that will ONLY change the (effective) head tube angle, and not alter the entire geometry. That would tell you whether or not it's purely a head tube angle issue.

Changing the fork travel not only changes the (effective) head tube angle, but it also changes other angles (most notably IMHO the seat tube angle), raises the bottom bracket height, and raises the top of the head tube (from the ground). All of those things can affect the way the bike handles (some of which can be perceived as 'negatives' IMHO).

=========================================

I'm also curious about the OP's height and the frame size he is riding. . . .

I find the Anthem X 29er to be a pretty confident descender.

 

[dimitrin]

Hi,

I just swapped parts from Xtc1 Hardtail to an AnthemX 29er frameset.

Really like the Anthem 29er but it's steep, 71 deg head angle is causing confidence problems --such as coming down a somewhat steep river bank onto rock creek crossings, and where there is just a bit of an abrupt transition, carrying speed onto rock piles, and going down rock drops, including uneven ribbons of rock that are a bit off camber, but that speed should carry you through. Stuff I can easily ride when I'm confident, and have.

Right now, I don't trust the front end and feel like it's gonna catch and throw me OTB. --again like rock piles over creeks, rock drop downs, etc... just, more confident that way and easier to move around and get weight back.

Thanks!

He did not say he was trying to gain a few tenths of a second to win a race,
he indicates that he feels like the bike wants him to pitch him OTB, and he wants to move his weight back. Sliding the seat back and riser bars help with that. So will 120mm up front or a angle set.

 

[dimitrin]

...or a dropper post.

 

[metelhead]

120mm fork will slacken the HA by aprox. 1*....I echo the suggestion of Wide bars and short stem and offset post...in addition try running a tad more sag in the rear....

Chainlove specials the Marzocchi 44 TI 29 140mm 15QR for $349....and you can have the travel reduced to 120 or 100 by a simple internal spacer.

 

[gvs_nz]

If he is up off the saddle on steep technical sections (as he should be IMHO), I don't see how moving the saddle back in the rails will be of any help with the issue he is having.

Just curious why two posters have suggested that for these situations?

.

In my case, only suggested it as part of the package of reducing stem length. You still need to fit the bike properly , which may be part of the problem.

 

[gvs_nz]

Here's Carl Deckers answer for Downieville.

Carl Decker | MB Word | MountainBike.com

 

[jeffj]

You should get the saddle adjusted for height, and fore/aft first. Then get the proper length stem fitted. If you have to move your saddle back so you can run a shorter stem, you could very well be riding a frame that is too small for all things to be considered properly.

I also noticed Decker's saddle looks to be slammed pretty far forward. Could be to make up for that 140mm travel fork changing the seat tube angle. Downieville isn't your garden variety XC race.

I may be trying a 120 Reba soon if I can scrounge up a 20mm axle front wheel. I already feel like the seat tube angle is barely OK (too slack for my preferences) for me, so I am skeptical that I'll like it for the long term, but I'll try it if I get a chance.

 

[dimitrin]

I got one coming this week, I:ll post up what I think. I'm definately more trail / all mountain oriented though, so keep that in mind.
Heck I may hate it, but I hope not!

 

[Boilermaker]

Reba 120 on my X 3

I'm running a Reba RL on my Anthem, and with the 20mm, tapered head tube and extra travel I'm pretty darn confident in the hairy stuff. Just got done with a 4 day trip to Pisgah Nat'l Forest, which is about the gnarliest stuff around the Southeast, and maybe the east in general and it did great.

On another note, doesn't the angled headset only work if you have a straight steerer on your fork?

 

[dimitrin]

Here's Carl Deckers answer for Downieville.

Carl Decker | MB Word | MountainBike.com

Good find on that pic, thanks! Every little bit of confirmation helps offset any intial doubt, One of the Giant mechanics at Outerbike said he just ordered a 120mm fork for his AX29, and said he races it.
We'll see.

 

[gvs_nz]

I've tried a 120mm fork on mine and the steering was terribly slow in singletrack even though the fork had a G2 offset. I run 66 degree 26" bike on the same singletrack. IMHO OEM fox fork on my AX1 soaks up big hits better than it's 100mm .It's the only 100mm bike I've owned that I haven't upgraded the fork to 120mm.
I'm pretty sure this frame will not take long term big bump duties. It's a race bike and pushs the envelope on alloy frames. Life time warranty will be void as well.

 

[gvs_nz]

...or a dropper post.

Only be a band aid if his stem is to long and bars too low. Bar posn is far more important in stopping OTB. If his bars are positioned high enough a dropper will give more confidence ,but not essential.
I only use a dropper on my freeride bike on shuttle runs . Primarily for jumps where low seat height is essential. Once again bar posn comes first though.

 

[gvs_nz]

You should get the saddle adjusted for height, and fore/aft first. Then get the proper length stem fitted. If you have to move your saddle back so you can run a shorter stem, you could very well be riding a frame that is too small for all things to be considered properly.

I also noticed Decker's saddle looks to be slammed pretty far forward. Could be to make up for that 140mm travel fork changing the seat tube angle. Downieville isn't your garden variety XC race.

I may be trying a 120 Reba soon if I can scrounge up a 20mm axle front wheel. I already feel like the seat tube angle is barely OK (too slack for my preferences) for me, so I am skeptical that I'll like it for the long term, but I'll try it if I get a chance.

OEM AX seat post is a set back post. His current post is
Thompson clamp style which puts your saddle 3/4 fwd of OEM post.So there is scope to reduce stem by the same amount.

When I set up my bikes, depending on which style of bike it is ,I do have a range that I posn my knee in relation to the BB. But I don't prescribe to KOPS.Your leg muscles adjust to small seat posn changes and it's not a road bike with set seat tube angles that you spend all day in the saddle. First off frame has to be a good fit, but stem length and height is essential to bike handling. So for me that comes first,even for xc / marathon bike set up.Then I have a seat to bar measurement I use, depending on bike use and bar height.

I like my bikes to handle well so I share OP frustration when things don't feel right.
I'm sure simple bike fit tweaks is all that is reqd. My Ax is as or more confidence inspiring as any bike I have owned on technical descents.

Something that has come to mind.
Op mentions moving components over from XTC which has even steeper angles So I'm a bit confused why there is a problem on the Ax? Hardtails can be easier on technical descents due to rear end off loading when the nose is pointed down on Fs bikes.
Is it just that OP needs more time to get used to handling of FS bike ? Is the suspension balanced? Is he running too high pressure in shock in relation to the fork?

 

[jeffj]

I've tried a 120mm fork on mine and the steering was terribly slow in singletrack even though the fork had a G2 offset. . . . . . .

I suspect I'll find the same thing if I get to try it.

IMHO OEM fox fork on my AX1 soaks up big hits better than it's 100mm .

I tend to agree. I don't really feel like the Anthem X 29er needs 120mm, at least not for what I use it for (XC/Trail/Light AM). I run a little over 30% sag and the Fox fork works very well like that.

I would like a few less pedal strikes, but I don't know if I want to give up too much cornering prowess to get it.

 

[paulsbiz]

I did extended demo rides on an Anthem x29er and a Pivot Mach 429 at MBO in August. The Pivot had a Fox Talas 95/120mm adjustable fork. Loved both bikes but definitely liked running the Pivot at 120 down Alpine. Too much $$$ for the Pivot. I'm building up an Anthem with the Talas 95/120 fork. Seems like it might be the answer.

 

[mtnbkrdr98]

Thanks for the responses on here. I ordered an F29 120 Kashima. I think they made a mistake though-as it didn't say "F29" on my invoice. Sorting that all out, once I get it, install it -- I'll post a report after solid trail time on it in different conditions, smooth/fast, steep, technical-rocks, etc.

I think it's gonna make the bike more fun to ride.