I've thought about that before, too. FWIW, stainless is pretty soft stuff. That's a general statement and I'm no metalurgist, but that's been my general experience. Keep us updated on that project.MendonCycleSmith said:Once my Larry shows, I have a tire that's getting the same treatment, but I'm using stainless pop rivets. With the gun firing from the inside I should have a nice, wadded up little head on the outside, add a backer washer to keep it from pulling through as it balls up, and I should be good.
MendonCycleSmith said:Nice work, how many beers to complete the job?
Thanks guys. It was about a 2 beer job.CLONG said:I checked the blog, but I couldn't tell what kind of beer you used for this project. Details?
Yup, this tire will rarely ever see pavement. 99.9% snow and ice.farmerfrederico said:...but I'd think the studs would last a lot longer than the steel you guys are using...maybe your tires will never see pavement?
I was thinking along the same lines as CLONG... when the tire flattens there should be plenty of contact between studs and snow/ice. I see that campykid chose the same stud pattern on his studded Endo. If it isn't enough bite, I can add more studs. That's one of the advantages of using latex to cover the screw heads, it makes adding studs easy. Most people around here cut up an old tube and glue it into the tire to cover the screw heads - which would make adding studs later more work.MendonCycleSmith said:I'll be curious to see how you like the placement. None closer in? I ask, only cause in commercially studded tires, the cheapo commuter versions run them just out on the edge, whereas the more performance versions have some in the main tread area too...