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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm sure you guys will direct me to numeroous forums, but I just need a good source of info. I just picked up this black and polished B2 frame (I'm sure some of you saw it on Ebay), I probably paid too much...naw! I wanted it! I already have what I believe is a full polished aluminum B3 that I put together with assorted parts. I'd like to be pretty period correct with the black one, can anybody point me in a good direction? thanx in advance, you guys always seem to come through.
 

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Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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Track down some 1993 MBA's... in one article they tested a GT RTS-1 versus a Mongoose Amplifier... that'll give you an idea for period correct bits. The B-2 was the same frame, in fact, since Amp originally didn't offer their frames painted... it looks to me like you have a Mongoose Amplifier that's been de-decaled.

www.amp-research.com is where you go for the manuals, and you can email Brion La Belle at [email protected] for parts. They still manufacturer replacement bushings, linkage pins, swingarm bits, etc from time to time. There's also a bushing/axle update kit for the B2s as I recall that goes to the newer style hardware used on the B- 3/4/5s. They had kits also to bring F-1/2 forks up to the hardware standards of the F-3/4. I put one of the kits into my F-1 fork.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanx DeeEight, now I remember another post that you did.. a brief Mongoose/Amp history. I think this frame has been powdercoated , but no matter, it will match the black Concept fork I have ready for it. I guess the B2's had problems around the headtube and the dual downtubes but since I'm not a hardcore rider that won't be a problem as long as the frame is sound when I get it ;) I just love the clean look of these frames.
I've also got the disc brakes and disc wheels for my B3, just haven't cleaned them up yet.
 

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Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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There actually wasn't a problem except when people DH raced the frames... I can recall photos from saint-anne around 94/95 which MBA ran with a racer walking down the dual slalom course holding his frame and back end in one hand and the headtube, fork and front wheel in the other. Back then all the racers assumed that if it was full suspension it must be for downhill because nobody really raced XC on them, even if the bikes were light enough (as Amp's were) and pedalled well enough (as Amp's did) for it.

Amp mainly moved towards a single downtube on the B-3s because it was simpler for manufacturing and didn't impose much of a weight penalty. They also switched to 6013 alloy instead of 6061 about the same time, so the frame strength (from the material perspective) actually increased about 50%.
 

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VRC Illuminati
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Seller is a good guy. That frame should arrive packed better than anything and in fantastic shape.

You could probably get away with an all M910 drive train and it would be correct and look great.

It won't be cheap, but it'll look cool.

Did you get the matching fork to go with it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
no, i didn't buy his fork cause I already have several in my "warehouse" (garage).
 

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Suddenly feeling my age..
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I bought a B2 frame/fork when they first came out. I got rid of the fork after about a month. It was terrible. Replaced it with a Rock Shox SL Ti and added the long travel kit to give them a massive 2.5' of travel! :eek:

I had an M900 groupset on it but because the rear brake cable routing was so crappy I got a set of HS33's. I used Magura pod mounts for the M900 shift levers. I had to add an AMP comression strut (seat stay) brace after I added the Maguras. The bike had PD-M737 pedals.

I accessorised with Control Tech; pillar (31.4mm???), ahead stem, Ti bar (bent 3 of them before I gave up on them), blue chainring bolts and derailleur pulleys. The bike had Araya RM400 rims and Magura cork grips. I used a Flite saddle.

Sorry the pic is so crappy. My scanner's on the fritz so I had to take a photo of a photo. :skep:

Hope that gives you some inspiration. I actually thought about bidding on the frame you just won but international shipping was too expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
AMP progress

It's coming along nicely, was gonna shoot some pic's today but it's SNOWING in Seattle! anyhow, AMP front fork, Avid ArchRival brakes, RaceFace crank, some old Mavics with really nice machined GT hubs (Hadley?) and Nitto Mustache bars. I decided to try something different in gearing, went with a 34-36 in the front and a 16-18 in the back. I'm going to use a lightweight derailer in the rear and manually change the front . Has anyone tried this...2x2? I thought it would give me a nice gear range to try out without swapping cogs all the time. I'll let you know how it works and post pic's soon.
 

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Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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I have, on a hardtail you can just do it as a double-gear singlespeed, in fact white industries now offers a specific double ring crank and double cog freewheel specifically for doing this. When I did it, I went with a 28/38 ring and 24/14T cogs. Shifting required stopping, dismounting and slowly turning the crank with one hand while using the other to guide the chain from the larger (cog or ring) to the smaller one next to it, and then vice versa for the opposite end. You don't even have to remove the wheel from the frame as long as you do it like that and you got your tension perfect to start with.

If you want a superlight / generally cheap rear derailleur for your purposes, find a Suntour Cyclone M-II short cage on ebay. They're good with up to a 30T cog, can manage a full 7speed cassette range, and at 166 grams, are damn light for a mid-80s derailleur.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Amp progress

Just the brakes to go and it's rideable. Not sure about the Mustache bars, never used them before but I like how they feel just sitting on it. The stem may change to black / different angle, gotta try it first.
 

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Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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Safety tip... measure the clearance between seattube and top of the brake booster part of the arch rivals. Amp shocks have a 2" stroke... and you may smack brake to frame at full travel. I had to sort thru 6 different brands of brake boosters to find one that cleared on my frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
hey thanks, hadn't even thought of that. I've got an extra set of Magura Racelines I was thinking about using too. What did you end up using? ..
 

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Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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On mine? Discs... on my friend's Mongoose Amplifier as I recall its actually setup with cantilevers. I was only running a booster when my pivot bushings were overdue for replacement and I had a lot of extra noticeable flexing between the seat stays. I used a Topeak booster that has a flat top and was designed for easy installation of their MudDefender rear fenders (it snaps directly to the booster). Now that they're replaced I'm not running the booster any longer.
 

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As long as we are talking about Amps; here’s a pic of my recently acquired 1995 Amp B3, the frame was a $51.00 E-Bay special. The Amp is a bike I wanted when they were new but I bought a GT LTS instead.
The first thing I did was to remove the stock shock and replace it with a Risse air shock. It is built up with 8 speed XTR and a NOS set of Ritchey OCR wheels. Mine has the rear brake brace and I really don't notice any flex out of the rear end. I am searching in vain for a decent old Sid fork; I’ve tried three used Sids so far and have not been happy with their performance. It built up to 22.5 lbs. with the Sid. Any ideas on a light 70-80mm fork that works? Or should I have an older sid rebuilt?
In the photo I have my front end off of my temporally down SC Superlight, to see how the bike responds to having a real fork. I rode it 41 miles yesterday and it rides great, as long as the trails aren’t to demanding.
I ordinarily race a Superlight and under the right conditions, I would be tempted to race this bike.

 

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Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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The Amp brace solves the clearance issue because it mounts directly above the tire and was engineered specifically around Amp's shock stroke travel.

As to RISSE shocks, they're popular because they don't need the maintenance Amp's thrushaft does, but they limit the actual travel. Risse didn't offer 2" stroke shocks for the things (think it was like 1.25" at best), so you actually get less travel from the Risse than you do from the stock Amp shock. You saw that on a lot of Amp-clones that used alternative shocks with the basic B-2/3 rear ends (like from Dagger, Supergo, Rocky Mountain, etc). Either Noleen or Risse or RST were the choices and you'd get frames with 2" or 2.5" when the actual Amp is 3".
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Amp B2, on the road finally!

Took it out for a ride today, in a word....NICE! Changed from the Avid ArchRivals to some cool RockWerx cantis, works fine but I might put on some blue anodized Avid canti levers anyway. Tires are temporary, waiting for some Hookworms..awesome tires! I really like the feel of the handlebars (Mustache copys) but a longer ride might feel different. The rear derailer isn't functional except for tension control, I haven't decided what to do there. I can manually change the gears (16-18 back, 36-38 front) so I actually have a six speed because of the chain tensioner. Yeah I know, I gotta clean up the brake cables!
 

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Cool looking bike. It would be so much cleaner looking without the rear derailleur which leads me to the question: why bother with such a tight gear spread? Pick the tallest gear you can live with and toss the rest:thumbsup: If you keep it onroad the pivots may last longer than 3 months too:D
 

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velocipede technician
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azjeff said:
Cool looking bike. It would be so much cleaner looking without the rear derailleur which leads me to the question: why bother with such a tight gear spread? Pick the tallest gear you can live with and toss the rest:thumbsup: If you keep it onroad the pivots may last longer than 3 months too:D
i think he's going for a dinglespeed set up, im not seeing any shifters.
whats the bcd on those cranks?
 
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