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I have an 04 NRS1. There are a lot of steel screws on the bike that could be replaced by aluminum ones for a substantial weight savings(For example: brake and shifter clamp screws(4), stem clamp screws(4), caliper mount screws(4), seatpost clamp screw(1), brake rotor screws(10?), and possibly some more I am forgetting).

Are there any companies out there that make aluminum screw replacement kits for bicycles? If not, I think this would be a cool idea that someone will pick up one day. I have had trouble finding some of the the right parts at the local hardware stores.

Has anyone done any of this type of thing on their own? It seems like a pretty cheap way to save some weight.
 

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Be careful which screws you replace with aluminum. It is pretty risky to replace things like stem, rotor and caliper screws with aluminum. Only use Al where a failure will not put you in danger.
 

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I love Pisgah
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Yup. I have 2 NRS frame builds with all ti or alum hardware.

Alum for the bar clamps as you stated. Steertube cap. Caliper mounts(altho some use ti tho). FD clamp. Chainring and crank arm bolts.

Ti and alum alternating rotor bolts(ti for shear strength..alum for weight). Alum and/or ti cap bolts for all the rear frame pivots. I use ti always for the stem, seatpost clamp, seat rail clamp bolts.

Typical savings for the entire bike runs aprox 100-200gms depending on how crazy you get.

My race NRS is a true 21lbs 2oz with disc brakes.
 

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I've just been checking this out myself. I want to replace EVERYTHING with either Ti or aluminim. If it saves me 1/2 a pound then i'm in. As stated previously, you should reserve aluminum for the "light duty" stuff.

Other things, like the stem and seat bolts, crank bolts, and SOME suspension bolts should be Ti - period.

ONE thing to keep in mind is thread galling with similar metals. I remember seeing problems with guys using Ti crank bolts with Ti spindles, aluminum bolts on an aluminum frame. Pretty self-explanatory, really. I always figured to just use some anti-sieze compound, but never tried.


Quick Q (don't mean to hi-jack!) - does SRP still make Crank-O-Matics for the taper crowd?????
 

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I love Pisgah
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Dunno on the last Q.

But, to the other stuff, meaning ti to ti, or alum to alum...

All alum FRM(135 gms) isis drive bb with alum crankbolts, chainring bolts. All alum... Change bb bearings about once a year(they are replacable) so I'd know if anythings prone to seizing.



Action Tec(145gms) ti square taper bb with SRP ti crankbolts, alum chainring bolts with ti backs(why I dunno, just felt like it). Have swapped the bearings out on it a couple times as well, and fixing to do it again after last weeks mud race.:(

Never ever have I had a problem over the past 3 years.



As for how much you'll lose? Depends on what cha got to work with(disc, FS, etc).
 

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youngda9 said:
Are there any companies out there that make aluminum screw replacement kits for bicycles?
Yes SRP make kits, but it's cheaper to find some alloy bolts online, there are various sites that have what you need.

please don't use alloy bolts on your stem or your seat post !!!!!

If the alloy bolts fail on your brake levers, they will just swivel and become loose, if the alloy bolts fail on your stem you may break your neck, a seat post suddenly plunging into the frame as you hurtle through some trees may also cost your dearly.

Titanium bolts whilst not being as light as alloy bolts will suit these more saftey critical places.
 
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