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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have one, 15 mile ride on this 2005 WTB Laserdisc freehub with a Novatec cog. I was under the impression that the freehub was steel - I now know different.

What can I do to prevent the hub from getting trashed?
I had visions of having 3-4 cogs available - do I really have to pop $30++/ea for cogs??
 

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HIYAH
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I tore my laser disc lites up with a CASSETTE...thats how soft they are...mine looked way worse than yours...way worse.

Your does not look that bad at all.
 

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Jesterrider said:
I have one, 15 mile ride on this 2005 WTB Laserdisc freehub with a Novatec cog. I was under the impression that the freehub was steel - I now know different.

What can I do to prevent the hub from getting trashed?
I had visions of having 3-4 cogs available - do I really have to pop $30++/ea for cogs??
lol thats nothing..

You can get a king/boone/other cog that sits wider on the cassette to help aleviate this from happening. The king/bonne cogs are wider so its harder to do this.

here's a pic of a wider cog:
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=92135
 

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That's nothing

My Hugi 240/DT Swiss hub has WAY more damage than that. The parts of the cassette not attached to the spider (little bit of play) or an individual cog (same thing) will cause those kind of marks.

I (very carefully) file off the burr so it feels smoother on top - just a little bit mind you - and keep on using the freehub.

As previously mentioned use a wider based cog and you will be much better off. (King or Endless)
 

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Jesterrider said:
I have one, 15 mile ride on this 2005 WTB Laserdisc freehub with a Novatec cog. I was under the impression that the freehub was steel - I now know different.

What can I do to prevent the hub from getting trashed?
I had visions of having 3-4 cogs available - do I really have to pop $30++/ea for cogs??
I wonder if you could use a steel freehub from a speeddisk wheelset.. I have a spare.
 

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The man who fell to earth
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You have a few options if you wish to stay with this hub: (1) use a steel freehub (if one is available) (2) buy the expensive (~$30 and up) wide based cogs from CK or others or (3) you could actually "build" your own wide based cogs using multiple Shimano DX cogs (like what you are currently using).

The last option is doable if you're willing to put in the effort. You can buy DX cogs on sale really cheap, I saw them on Nashbar awhile back for $1.49 each. What you do is get three of them, use one as your drive cog. Take the other two and grind off the teeth and then some so you're left with two little circles. The two circles will sandwich the drive cog. You can then either carefully drill the sandwich and join the group with 3 or 4 small bolts leaving you with an el cheapo wide based cog. Or, if you have access to an oxy-acetylene torch or an arc welder (mig/tig/stick) you can braze or weld them up very quickly (just a few beads will hold them). If you have access to a spot welder, this could be accomplished in seconds. You can also break apart an old cassette and do the same thing.

The only question is how much time it will take you, and would that time be worth $30 or so $$ of effort?

Jesterrider said:
I have one, 15 mile ride on this 2005 WTB Laserdisc freehub with a Novatec cog. I was under the impression that the freehub was steel - I now know different.What can I do to prevent the hub from getting trashed? I had visions of having 3-4 cogs available - do I really have to pop $30++/ea for cogs??
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the feedback!

scottms33 said:
well i would say, get a hub with a steel body or get a nice cog... maybe a king, endless bike co. or a boone cog with a wider base on it. here is a pic of my king cog on my king hubs...

check out these sites for more info on cogs

http://www.endlessbikes.com/products/components.html
http://www.booneti.com/cr/cr.html
http://chrisking.com/index.html

last year surly was going to make some but things kinda got held up on that... i hear they might be coming soon...

scott
I sprung for 2 Kings this afternoon just to get things going. I also temporarily put an older cassette on the freehub, taking off the lower 3 or 4 (I forget) cogs and replacing them with spacers tro take up the gaps. I then just put the chain on the 20t. It has 18t also, and of course all of the cogs above 20 as any cassette would. It looks a little wierd, but would ride just fine if I feel like riding in the short term until the Kings show up next week.
I have a sneaky suspicion that this freehub body will not last long, even with better/wider cogs.
Can freehub bodies be replaced??
 

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Jesterrider said:
Can freehub bodies be replaced??
That hub looks like one the WTB's thats identical to the American Classic hubs. Providing better pics or asking at your LBS can confirm or deny this. If it is the same as the AM Classic then steel freehubs are available and are easy enough to change.
 

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If you can get that cog on and off, the free-hub is ok. You would never want to see the carnage I have inflicted on certain King and Hugi free-hub bodies. Don't worry so much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
How do you replace the freehub?

Lab Worker said:
That hub looks like one the WTB's thats identical to the American Classic hubs. Providing better pics or asking at your LBS can confirm or deny this. If it is the same as the AM Classic then steel freehubs are available and are easy enough to change.
From what I hear - they are the same hubs as AM Classic.
I sent WTB an email asking if they sell steel freehubs - I'll wait to see, just for curiosity.
I found maint. instructions on the Am Classic site. The only tough part is how to hold the hub axel tight enough to loosen the adjustment nut (I tried tonight but did not want to trash the axel. It is very soft. The website references a special type of axel vise. Perhaps putting some type of rubber washer on the outside would allow for grip and protection. Anyway, no worries, I'll use the King cogs and all will be happy :)
http://www.amclassic.com/tech/Hub_Overhaul.html
 
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