[PiroChu]

I've read the online tech manual about aligning the replaceable dropout on Hecker.

http://www.santacruzbicycles.com/tech/heckler_tech.pdf

Generally it's always nice to have adjustment options on things, but isn't this something that should simply be "aligned" when the mounting bolts are secured (without any adjustments), to be dummy-proof? I mean, you just secure a regular/conventional replaceable derailleur hanger, and there's no options to adjust with it. (And it's supposed to be "aligned", as is, right?)

I'm just afraid that I may mess up something by not evenly micro-aligning it 100% straight, which may lead to uneven stressing of rear axle (upon landing), or who knows what else, in a long term...?

Did I miss something here, or am I just being over-paranoid?

Finally, as for "Step 3" in this online tech manual, you're suppose to do this step #3 with a rear wheel & derailluer already installed from step #2 (even though the picture of step #3 shows no wheel or derailleur installed with it), correct? Or, do you have to have the wheel & derailluer off, when turning the adjustment screws?

Thanks for the info in advance,
- PiroChu

 

[Bikinfoolferlife]

Well, it says just above step 3, at the end of step 2,

to reinstall your wheel and rear derailleur. I've always found the SC instructions to be good if you follow 'em all. You been maybe takin' too many of those sips of your favorite beverage in between steps?

I just ordered a new hanger today. I do not currently have one with the set screws for alignment; I'm looking forward to having the ability to center the wheel in the stays so I can run a 2.5 without rubbing. I had only recently noticed that there was a different hanger now when I had to review the pivot service instructions the other day.

 

[okie_calvin]

ghost shifting

Ever since an incident I had where a log got kicked up between the chainstay and wheel which resulted in a bent hanger I've had ghost shifting problems. When I measure from seatstay to tire I get 1/8" inch difference. Could this small amount make the bike do this? The hanger isn't new, the LBS bent it back and re-hung it, replaced the derailleur, and chain. After about 10 trips to LBS it's getting better but still jumps at the most inopportune times. Should I now have them focus on getting the alignment even?

HELP PLEASE!

 

[Dave99]

Don't mess around with those drop-out set-screws unnecessarily. I "investigated" my drop-out hanger, being the curious fellow I am, and created more headaches for myself than it was worth.

If your drop-out is misaligned enough then you'll generate a creaking sound. It sounds like aluminum cracking whenever you pedal really hard. For the longest time, I thought it was my bottom bracket and I spent like 4 months ritualistically removing my cranks and bottom brackets and re-lubing the piss out of them using different methods . . . like teflon tape, anti-seize, torque spec's, etc. Nothing worked. Then somebody here suggested to check the rear drop-out. And voila!

After you've taken care to adjust the set-screws to centre your rim between the seatstays, make sure the tension from your chain and derailleurs doesn't pull your drop-out out of alignment as you tighten those bolts down. Also make sure you tighten to spec or maybe even a little over. I went to 90 lb-in. (instead of 80 lb-in.) and used Loc-tite on the threads. So far I haven't heard a creak in over a month and that's the sweetest sound in the world!

I also bent my drop-out on some rocks but pounded it flat again. Try and find a flat machined surface. I used my stainless steel router table-top and a couple of hunks of flat aluminum bar stock. I sandwiched the hanger between the plate and the bar stock and pounded it mostly flat with a hammer. It's pretty hard to get it dead straight and you might find your gearing a little finicky but it's a lot better than ghost shifting.

Good luck.