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Hi all,

Just got my first urban badboy and i'm loving it alot! :band:

Hopeing to commute to work starting next week,

I can now see what all the fuss is about, but before i make a %$*# of it; is there a guide anywhere on 1. removing rear wheel on a gear hubbed bike 2. adjusting the alfine hub 3. adjusting the EBB 4. correct chain tension etc. I'm pretty handy mechanicaly but have never ventured into the geared hub teritory etc, only even had mountain bikes with conventional gearing. Reason for the rear wheel removal is so i can fit some more substantial tyres as part of my commute will be light offroad...

Looking at my chain i think it's lost a little tension after my ride last night (First light ride around 30k's ).

Any other info or things to watch out for (Other than traffic :D) would be appreciated!

All the best,

Derek
 

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ebb:
- http://www.cannondale.com/asset/iu_..._double_wedge_owners_manual_supplement_en.pdf

when loosening the wedge bolt, it pushes the wedges apart, it allways frees one wedge before the other, but you need to keep unthreading the bolt as the loose wedge will stop on the 2 pins, then push the 2nd wedge free, so just be careful during that process because if you unscrew the bolt too much there is danger to push out the clip (see picture in pdf) and if that happens one or both wedges may be stuck in the bb shell

hub:
- http://bike.shimano.com/media/techd...5Z0C-001_SG-S500-EN_v1_m56577569830613357.pdf

- http://bike.shimano.com/media/techd...SG/EV-SG-S500-2637B_v1_m56577569830637991.pdf

also try internal gear hubs forum: http://forums.mtbr.com/forumdisplay.php?f=154
 

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I'm thinking of converting the bike I use for commuting to one of these hubs.
I'm curious how you find the gearing, what are the jumps between gears like, etc. especially in a commuting/urban environment as opposed to off-road.
Care to give us a review? :)
 

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I'm a gear hub fan.

I converted my 26" 1FG to a Rolhoff Speedhub and sold my derailleur equipped bike (F4000)
Whenever I get back to a standard bike , I always think that derailleur are soooooo 20th century.:D ( with the "Valley girl" accent )


When adjusting tension ; crank are never perfectly round , so adjust the tension , then thight the EBB just a little , so that it doesn't slip , turn the crank a couple of revolution , If there is more tension , it's gonna slack itself , then thight all the way.
Or find the point where the tension is bigger ( on my crank is when the right side pedal is at 30° ) put the tension and tight the EBB.

Tip; I put some"teflon" tape around the EBB , lasts longer than grease....
 

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Congratulations, I've had mine for a little over 6 months now, you'll love it. Funnily enough I've got a Thomson seatpost in mine too (std one was crap), albeit a layback one.

Removing the rear wheel is a real pain, so much that I usually just patch the tube while it's on the bike if I get a puncture. Still, you'll need to figure it out eventually, here's how I usually do it.
1. Shift into first
2. Drop the chain off the chainring, just derail it slightly and turn the crank around. This should give enough chain slack to make things easier.
3. Remove the gear cable connection to the hub. Stick a 2mm (maybe???) hex key into the little hole that allows you to turn the shifting mechanism on the hub around easily (you could just turn this bit around with you hand almost as easy). As you turn the shifting mechanism on the hub around anti-clockwise that little 'nut thing' at the end of the gear cable should pretty much pop out or it might take a little pull of the gear cable.
4. Drop the wheel out and disengage the mount from the hub that holds the rubber boot at the end of the gear cable (I usually find sliding this boot out of the brackets clip is easiest.

To re-install just reverse the above process, it takes a bit of practice and can be a bit frustrating at times.

Adjusting the actual hub is dead easy, put it in 4th and turn the barrel adjusted on the gear cable until the two yellow marks (in the little window on the top of the hub) line up. To be thorough, I'd shift up and down through the full range and return to 4th to check to see if it still lines up.

I've broken a few spokes on the rear so it may be worth checking the tension after you do a bit more riding.

The EBB is the crux of these bikes, mine was no different, slipping and/or creaking constantly. I'd say your chain is slack as the EBB has moved ever-so-slightly already. The way to check is put a mark (pencil) across the EBB to bottom bracket interface, if after a ride the mark no longer lines up, then the EBB has moved. If not it'll just be the chain wearing.
Rebuilding the EBB is also a pain in the butt as the gear cable and brake hose run through the same space as the EBB. I'd like to try wrapping the whole assembly in teflon tape but at this stage I cant see how you would get the EBB into the bottom bracket shell fully assembled. My current process involves putting the wedges on the main part of the EBB in the bottom bracket. I'd absolutely love to be proven wrong.
The EBB seems to sort itself out after a couple thousand km's, I no longer have any problems.

Haven't had a problem with any other part of the bike in what must be getting close to 6000km (3700mi) of commuting. Gear are fine but I do occasionally find the 5-6 jump annoying, next chain ring I get will be a bit larger so I wont need to shift from 5 to 6 as often.

Problems aside, you'll still love it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi mate,

I checked out your site before buying the BB8 so i do know the EBB can be problematic.
I'm pretty clued up mechanically so shouldnt be a problem, i did find removing the rear wheel pretty straight forward but i guess in the wet at the side of the road may be different :) The bikes going back in this week to get the brake hoses and gear outer shortened as they are miles too long but other than that its sweet. I'm gona stick a thomson stem on too but other than that and a better chain (KMC Black anodized :D) thats all i think it needs! I do agree with the 5th to 6th but if you think about it; its only a slight click and slip otherwise all shifts are silky smooth, so much so its hard sometimes to know it has actually changed! :D

Just back from a gently 30k ride and the EBB has deffo slipped as the chain is looking slack, cant wait till it beds in properly! I did investigate the option of a phil wood EBB but apparently they cant be fitted to the badboy :(

Have you stayed with the 38T front ring? I see the 2009 version has a 42T ring which may be a good option as i'm yet to use really first or second gear but maybe on the really really steep hills it'll be required.

Will keep you up to date with what i think after a couple of weeks commuting.

Cheers

Derek
 

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lockies said:
Rebuilding the EBB is also a pain in the butt as the gear cable and brake hose run through the same space as the EBB. I'd like to try wrapping the whole assembly in teflon tape but at this stage I cant see how you would get the EBB into the bottom bracket shell fully assembled.
Just one lawer and it fits.
I put a layer around the EBB and a diferent layer around the wedges , so nothing is "metal against metal"
Fits tight and noise-less.
 

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For the removal of the gear "thing" , I leave a 3-4 inch of cable at the end , so I put it in 1st gear and just pull the extra cable. It has to turn slightly to be able to get out......


PS My winter commuter is Nexus equipped.....
 
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