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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Under the general heading of market research/spam, I am nearly done with our Chris King thru axle conversion. This would allow a Chris King hub to be used with a 10 mm thru axle (like a Hadley, for qr dropouts) or a 12 mm like a Stab or Giant DH.

It would also allow the hub to be used with wider than 135 mm spacing, and result in a dishless wheel at 150 mm.

This originally started out as a way to offer the thru axle conversion with our floating brakes, but we'll make it available for non floaters as well.

Pricing still to be determined, as well as pictures, soon.

Any interest in such a thing?

Brian..... [email protected]
 

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SNOWRIDER
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That is very cool but I doubt if I will ever own a CK hub after owning Hadleys
 

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Wow - interesting response!!!

JBsoxB said:
i have a CK and a habley.... and two deores...

i like them both... and if i ever got a knolly, i'd be interested ;)
I had actually toyed with the idea early on of making a special order King compatible dropout set that would use the 145mm tandem thru axle hub with our 150mm spec frame. It would be really, really easy for us to do this because of the V-tach's completely replaceable dropout and disc tab system. Then, we signed up DT Swiss as an OEM hub provider and haven't looked back. However, Brian's option would pretty much negate the need for us to make custom dropouts.

I'm not sure how much demand there would be though - both Hadley and DT swiss have excellent 150x12mm hubs out on the market. Still, it's a very cool idea - especially the fact that because King hasn't brought out a DH specific rear hub yet, someone likes their products enough to invest time and money into a conversion kit. It certainly speaks volumes about the King product!
 

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using a 135 hubshell on a 150 frame, are you making a spacer to put the rotor in the correct position, or is the chainline going to be way off.

Sounds like a good idea, but for the price of a King hub, plus the price of the aftermarket axle, gonna be $$$$

like others have said, I'd be all over a DT Hugi FR or Hadley before I got into that, both of which I feel are better hubs.
 

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I like bikes
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DH king

Brian,

Would definitely be interested in learning more. The only part i don't like on my Demo 9 is the Ringle rear hub. I would love the engagement of a King on there. Tell us more.

How will you acheive a dishless setup for a 150mm spacing? will you use a standard 135 hubshell?
What is your cost goal?
Any pics?

Hope you can bring it to Sea Otter so we can take a look
 

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Calm like a bomb
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Sounds like a great idea. I already own a set of King hubs and considering that they last just about forever but my next frame will very likely have 150mm spacing, I'd sure like the option of not having to replace my hubs. It seems that your product would most appeal to people in my situation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
konabiker said:
You are my god....Any idea on cost? Oh I'm exited like a little school girl.
Note that we are not going to be selling hubs, just the pieces to convert existing hubs.

The pricing will be set two ways, first to modify your axle, and include a new brake side end cap, will be in the $50-$60 dollar range. For a new axle and end cap, $100-$120.

If you're not running one of our floaters, you will also need a 15 mm disc spacer, about $25.00

If you are running our floater, or buy this as a package, the price will be reduced as a package price with the floater (tbd)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ILikeFood said:
I'd be really interested if the 10mm conversion would allow me to run a Saint rear deraileur...so interested in fact I'd open my checkbook.

-f00d
The conversion would allow the standard bearing adjustment, and you could run the Saint axle/derailleur.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Pentacle said:
using a 135 hubshell on a 150 frame, are you making a spacer to put the rotor in the correct position, or is the chainline going to be way off.

Sounds like a good idea, but for the price of a King hub, plus the price of the aftermarket axle, gonna be $$$$

like others have said, I'd be all over a DT Hugi FR or Hadley before I got into that, both of which I feel are better hubs.
For our floaters, there is no need for a disc spacer, we just space the floater inboard to match, which actually means the disc is much more protected, without the floater, a disc spacer is required. Chainline would be the same as any other 150 mm hub.

This started out to make some of our customers happy who wanted a floater, but are running the solid CK axle with fun bolts. While we did come up with a floater kit for the qr hub, the solid axle is a bit of a problem. Also, some are complaining about the pain of the fun bolts, i.e., not being able to remove them until the wheel is out, and some even saying they have to remove the derailleur to take the wheel out!

Add in some reports of the qr axle breaking, and the non-availabilty of any thru axle conversion, and this just seemed to make sense.

I agree on hub choice, we work directly with, and sell DT and Hadley hubs, which interface great with the floater. We will not be selling CK hubs, but we decided to do this for those of you (you know who you are) that can't bear to part with their kings no matter what.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Psychos said:
Brian,

Would definitely be interested in learning more. The only part i don't like on my Demo 9 is the Ringle rear hub. I would love the engagement of a King on there. Tell us more.

How will you acheive a dishless setup for a 150mm spacing? will you use a standard 135 hubshell?
What is your cost goal?
Any pics?

Hope you can bring it to Sea Otter so we can take a look
The reduction in dish is from the fact that a 135 mm hub has about 15 mm of dish. When you go to 150 mm you get to move the rim over to the brake side, increasing th eangle on th edrive side spokes and decreasing it on the brake side spokes. We've done this with 135 mm Hadleys, and you end up with exactly the same spoke length, angle and tension, i.e. a dishless wheel.

No pics yet, and th eprices I quoted above are for the conversion only, not including a disc spacer (if needed) or a thru axle. We do have thru axles available.
 

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So to clarify...

which hub does one need to use your conversion kit? the stanard QR rear ISO, or the DH solid axle version. I would imagine it wouldn't matter if you provide a longer axle, in which case the standard QR would be the way to go since it is cheaper and more readily available.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Psychos said:
So to clarify...

which hub does one need to use your conversion kit? the stanard QR rear ISO, or the DH solid axle version. I would imagine it wouldn't matter if you provide a longer axle, in which case the standard QR would be the way to go since it is cheaper and more readily available.

Thanks
At the moment, this conversion is intended for the qr axle, as that is the axle that works best with our floater (but we have a non-floater version as well). I also have a solid axle on the way, to see what can be done with it, but in either case, you would be replacing th eaxle in your hub anyway, so it wouldn't matter what you started with.
 
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