I must say that I have had better experience with the race face cranks than Shimano and similar arm systems that use a preload cap on the one end; I had a crank arm walk off the splines after the preload cap walked off, and my sister experienced the same thing with a FSA crank with a similar design (though at least FSA uses a hex wrench to install the cap rather than Shimano's proprietary plastic insert tool).Edit: can someone write Shimano a letter and tell them to get on board already!?!?
This. You could set the preload, tighten the pinch bolts and then take off the plastic cap, it wouldn't matter.As a point of clarification, the plastic preload adjustment on a Shimano crank is not responsible for holding your NDS crank arm in place.
Yep, I understand what is theoretically supposed to happen, but experience (including one crankset tightened with a torque wrench, so I know I had the pinch bolts set correctly, and there isn't much else to mess up with the install) is different. I know when it happened that I googled around, and found a handful of others that had run into the same issue; maybe just a tolerances issue for my crank (I didn't install the FSA crank, so I can't vouch for the install procedures). That said, Shimano generally is good value; perhaps I just have too high of expectations to the number of times I can transfer a part.I know, everyone has their preferred system. Many people don't like the RF cranks because of the lack of preload adjustment.
As a point of clarification, the plastic preload adjustment on a Shimano crank is not responsible for holding your NDS crank arm in place. The clamping force of the two 5mm bolts hold the crank on and there is a small pin that must fit into a hole in the spindle as a backup system to prevent the crank arm from coming off.
The plastic preload cap is very much like the top cap on your headset/stem. It doesn't hold your stem on, it sets the bearing preload. The stem bolts hold your stem in place.
As always proper installation, torque, and adjustment is required for any system to work properly.
The Aeffect is still available. https://www.raceface.com/products/details/aeffect-cinch-crankToday I ordered RaceFace Ride Cinch cranks for a 190mm fat bike. 114.95. I guess this is the Aeffect replacement.
I think shorter versions of fatbike spindles are not made for aeffect/ride. Or they're really rare. Shorter versions of 30mm spindle variants are available (next, turbine, atlas etc). I fear you need to go to either 30mm or SRAM to get shorter cranks.Does anyone knows what's the status on those cranks? The Aeffect is still listed as available in 5 spindle length, so I went to my lbs to order one for my Farley (xcf100 spindle) and they had only the RXC137 available for order from Raceface... Is it because I'm in Canada?
I've also been desperatly searching the depths of the internet, looking for a xcf100 165mm crank arms aeffect, to no avail.
And by the way, is the xcf100 (167.25mm) the one considered "for 170mm rear spacing"? Found a few cranks labeled with either "for 170/190 rear spacing" but no indication regarding the spindle model. What am I searching for to fit on a Trek Farley 5?
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Yeah I measured the chainstays to 160mm where they meet the crank. So it should be okay.I think shorter versions of fatbike spindles are not made for aeffect/ride. Or they're really rare. Shorter versions of 30mm spindle variants are available (next, turbine, atlas etc). I fear you need to go to either 30mm or SRAM to get shorter cranks.
Yes, the xcf100 is the 170mm rear version. If I recall correctly the chainstay clearance measure must be about 175mm for the Next SLs and Aeffect xcf100.