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This site has inspired me to trick out the Rascal that I bought. I am thinking of chamfering the bb shell to install a Mavic cartridge. The Klein tech thinks that this will prevent me from installing Klein press fit bb's. I am not sure about this. Any thoughts or recommendations greatly appreciated.
 

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bushpig said:
This site has inspired me to trick out the Rascal that I bought. I am thinking of chamfering the bb shell to install a Mavic cartridge. The Klein tech thinks that this will prevent me from installing Klein press fit bb's. I am not sure about this. Any thoughts or recommendations greatly appreciated.
My first question would be why. The stock set up is so nice.

If you did decide to chamfer the shell, (by the way, is the shell even big enough for this?) and then later decided to go back to the original style set up, you would be forced to run the bearings further inside the shell as opposed to flush with the outside edge. It should still work though but maybe not quite as stiff. Personally, I would definitely stick with the stock set up since its light, bullet-proof, and cheap to replace bearings.
 

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bushpig said:
I was going to listen in any case, but now I will be doubly attentive! Happily the Klein bearings are still available for sale new - $40/pr according to the Klein rep.
Just go to a local bearing shop and you can get them from $3-$10 a piece. Just get the number off of the rubber seal and take it with you so they can match it.
 
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bushpig said:
Thank you for the great advice. I am looking forward to replacing these bearings.
yup, these are standard 6003 (35mmx17mmx10mm) bearings with seals on both side (RSR i think). $6 at e.g. http://www.biketoolsetc.com and Phil Wood has them as well. Klein used the C3 variation with some pre-play but i dont think that's really important.

If you run a short bb spindle (110mm or less) you must press the bearings about 3mm deep into the shell anyways but i would not modify the bb either. You can also have the bb shell threaded with italian threads to use other bbs (e.g. DuraAce or Ultegra splined axle) or use the reset racing bbs...

Carsten
 

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Fillet-brazed said:
Just go to a local bearing shop and you can get them from $3-$10 a piece. Just get the number off of the rubber seal and take it with you so they can match it.
I second this opinion, thats where I got mine (under $10.00 for the pair) and they work just fine:thumbsup: . Judging by the pricelist Chasintrane posted, looks like he just wants to spend more money:confused: .Hey, throw some my way if you have extra:D
 

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stan4bikes said:
I second this opinion, thats where I got mine (under $10.00 for the pair) and they work just fine:thumbsup: . Judging by the pricelist Chasintrane posted, looks like he just wants to spend more money:confused: .Hey, throw some my way if you have extra:D
I'm definitely not considering the ceramics, (a total waste in this application). If you actually read my post, I was questioning the difference between the chrome and steel for the bb application. Carsten also mentioned a C3 fit earlier in the thread as well.

Sorry, I'll just go down to my "local bearing shop" and pick them up, right next to my local market and fruit stand. :rolleyes:
 

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wow! didn't mean to hit a nerve.....sorry for trying to be funny. And actually you said "Which bearings should I get for a 92 Rascal? Chrome or Stainless? Thanks" ..there are 8 Chrome and 7 Stainless listed, you never mentioned Ceramics at all. I guess I should have known what you meant.
 

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stan4bikes said:
wow! didn't mean to hit a nerve.....sorry for trying to be funny. And actually you said "Which bearings should I get for a 92 Rascal? Chrome or Stainless? Thanks" ..there are 8 Chrome and 7 Stainless listed, you never mentioned Ceramics at all. I guess I should have known what you meant.
I didn't mention ceramics because I am not considering them. I tried checking out http://www.biketoolsetc.com, but their website was difficult to navigate and I couldn't find the bearings there. I also called and emailed philwood.com, but I have heard nothing from them. I'm now in a bit of a rush, and bocca is pretty reliable. I can also get the bearings a little cheaper than whats listed on the page, so the $9 chrome / C3's would be just a little bit more for a pair.

I'm a little on the edge this morning, but it wasn't from your post. Sorry for jumping down your throat.
 
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chrome is just fine if they are properly sealed. so far i havent seen a Klein bb bearing failing due to rust. just make sure to take the 2RS variation with two rubber seals (one on each side). not open and not with (metal) shields.

repair parts -> bearings at biketoolsetc.com

http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.c...tc=Enduro-Cartridge-Bearings&item_id=US-B6003

it is not specifically mentioned that those have two seals but as they are filled with grease they should have them. but better ask to be sure.

carsten
 
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Chasintrane said:
Is there a point where you'd be worried about bearings that were too cheap? I found 10 bearings for 14.95.
probably not, unless you spin faster than 15000rpm ;)

edit, you can have them even cheaper

http://cgi.ebay.com/10-6003-2RS-Sea...ryZ67033QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

on the other hand, the expensive/time consuming part are not the bearings but the labor to replace them. and each time you replace the bearings the frame suffers a bit so i would not take a risk and buy good bearings (assuming good = more expensive). Klein has used *** and SKF and those usually last pretty long. they run around $10 each. i honestly dont know how to recognize a good bearing and hence assume/hope that a known brand stands for better quality. so far the *** bearings did not dissapoint me.

here you can get 6 SKF for $37 shipped

http://cgi.ebay.com/6-SKF-BEARING-N...ryZ67033QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

edit, it says C3 on the bearing which is the variation Klein recommended back then.

what i noticed though is that even those better bearings dont last long if they are not properly installed. it seems to be a good advice to tap the spindle a bit against the direction it was installated in. i had the impression that it removes the "tension" from the bearings caused by the installation. i did not do that the first time and the drive side bearing was shot after only 1000mls. the next set lasts since many 1000mls. maybe that's the reason why Klein recommended the C3 version with some built-in play?

Carsten
 

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The staff at Phil Wood are a little lazy! I went through a local shop; to ship the part from Phil Wood in San Jose, CA to San Francisco, CA was only a day, the trouble was getting the attention of Phil Wood. I have a 1994 Rascal, went with the Phil Wood Ti 113mm Crank Axle and new Phil Wood 6003 bearings.
 
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