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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys

Looking pickup a new Nomad in the next few days. Have put together the following build and would appreciated any comments or suggestions. Used to ride a VP-Free 2 years back and getting back into the saddle again. Looking for an aggressive all mountain stead.

FRAME: Santa Cruz Nomad Carbon with selected components from X0 2x10 package Black w/Gold Large
Front Suspension Fork: Fox 36 Float 160 FIT RLC Fork 20mm 1.5 Taper
Brake: Avid Elixir X0 Disc Brake Set- 185mm Rear Rotor 185mm Front Rotor
Cassettes: SRAM XG-1080 Cassette 11/36
Chain Guide: None
Chains: KMC X9SL Chain Gold
Cranks: Truvativ X0 GXP 2.2 10-Speed Crankset- Black 175mm 39/26
Front Derailleurs: SRAM X0 2x10 Low Clamp Front Derailleur Top Pull 28.6/31.8/34.9
Grips: ODI Rogue SRAM
Handlebars: Easton EA70 Monkeybar Low
Headset: Chris King InSet Model 5 Headset Gold
Pedals: Azonic 420 - Gold
Rear Derailleurs: SRAM X0 10-Speed Rear Derailleur Gold Long
Rear Shock: Fox DHX 5.0 AIR
Saddles: WTB Rocket V Pro Saddle Black
Seatpost: Easton EA70 Zero Setback Seatpost 400mm 30.9mm
Shifter: SRAM X.O Select Trigger Shifters Nugget Gold
Cables: None
Stems: Easton EA70 Stem 100mm
Computers: None
Pre-Built Wheels: Mavic Crossmax ST Disc Wheelset 6 Bolt 20mm
Tubes: None
Tires - Front: Maxxis High Roller UST Tire UST Kevlar Bead 2.35
Tires - Rear: Maxxis High Roller UST Tire UST Kevlar Bead 2.35
Rimstrips: None
Skewers: None
 

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Couple things...
A blackspire stinger type chainguide goes a long way preventing dropped chains
100mm stem seems sort of long, but if thats what works for you go for it
The new Float 160 has the RLC damper(rebound, lockout and low speed compression) instead of the RC2(rebound , low speed and high speed compression), I would rather have high speed compression control than a lockout, again your call.
Wide bars are all the rage now, if your buying it from a shop get them to put some wider bars on it so you can see what length fits you best before you buy it.(I love my 745mm Sunline bars)
 

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Build sounds nice, however, not sure about the XO front derailleur. A post yesterday started by Jason333 has someone else posting SCB's recommendations for a front derailleur. Seems like some folks are making SRAM front derailleurs work, however, you may want to double check this. My shop is putting a Shimano front derailleur on my otherwise XO build. Have a ton fun making this happen.
 

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You can run a low clamp sram front d but I DON'T recommend it. High clamp is no go shimano or sram. I have an x7 on my nomad and it's tough to access the cable bolt. SC doesn't recommend sram period. You can also have cable rub on the wishbone if not set up right. Run a low clamp shimano, anything but saint. I'll agree with Mullet on the 100mm stem. I run a 50 and feel anything longer than 70 on a nomad will hurt it's DH capabilities. Of course it's all personal preference. Build to suit your personal style and local trails.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
mullet dew said:
Couple things...
A blackspire stinger type chainguide goes a long way preventing dropped chains
100mm stem seems sort of long, but if thats what works for you go for it
The new Float 160 has the RLC damper(rebound, lockout and low speed compression) instead of the RC2(rebound , low speed and high speed compression), I would rather have high speed compression control than a lockout, again your call.
Wide bars are all the rage now, if your buying it from a shop get them to put some wider bars on it so you can see what length fits you best before you buy it.(I love my 745mm Sunline bars)
Thanks for the reply. I see the float doesn't do an RC2, but the vanilla does. Only run Marzocchi before so not sure how the vanilla would compare to the float. The talas seems like a waste on me. Not really going to adjust the travel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
slimat99 said:
You can run a low clamp sram front d but I DON'T recommend it. High clamp is no go shimano or sram. I have an x7 on my nomad and it's tough to access the cable bolt. SC doesn't recommend sram period. You can also have cable rub on the wishbone if not set up right. Run a low clamp shimano, anything but saint. I'll agree with Mullet on the 100mm stem. I run a 50 and feel anything longer than 70 on a nomad will hurt it's DH capabilities. Of course it's all personal preference. Build to suit your personal style and local trails.
Interesting. Will look at an Xt or XTR option.
 

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Mullet is right on the stem length, 100 is going to be way to long. I run a 50MM.

I do run a RLC and like the lock out. having lock out is really nice on a long climb. I can lock the front and rear out (DHX air on the rear) so the bike feels really stiff and efficient on the climbs.

I also run a pretty wide bar and love it. I have a Easton Haven bar.

The KMC will look good because of the gold, but I have always come back to Sram chains because they are better shifting and less maintenance.

Post pictures when your done.
 

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Ditto above comments on bar/stem, but whatever works for you. The only thing missing from the build IMO is a dropper post. I couldn't live without one.
 

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Personally I'd stick with the Fox 36 Float RLC fork. I have one on my Blur LT2 and it is an excellent fork with great damping and the lockout comes in handy on long climbs. People that are saying that they'd rather have the RC2 damper likely haven't ridden the RLC because it has great high speed control and the low speed lets you dial the fork in for those steeper, choppier trails.
 

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DarkDaze said:
Looking at XTR rear derailers - medium or long and why?
You said above you want Sram shifters, cant use Sram shifter with Shimano R.D.

I always use a med cage because they have a bit more clearance and a bit lighter (not much), you can get away with a Med cage as long as you know to not cross gear.
 

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If you're considering the RLC for the adjustability for climbing you should also consider a TALAS. I've never ridden the RLC, but I have had a couple of TALAS forks and the ability to drop to 100mm for long climbs is nice. Just something else to consider.
 

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Now is clear that the 100mm stem is to long. I used several sizes and now riding the 50mm one.

I've ride the Fox DHX5air in Al and C nomads and is not the best for this frame. Dificult to set up you always end up with a compromise, so is better to go with a coil and I advise the BOS Stoy for that.

Don't want the coil use the new RP23
 

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Dropper seatpost: Joplin or reverb
Ditch the DHXAir and get a monarch RT3 direct from Push or a monarch plus.

I have the RT3 on my Al Nomad, works much better than the DHX. I also have a TALAS... If I had to do it again I'd stick with the FLOAT. Find I almost never drop the front anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Brian Damage said:
Dropper seatpost: Joplin or reverb
Ditch the DHXAir and get a monarch RT3 direct from Push or a monarch plus.

I have the RT3 on my Al Nomad, works much better than the DHX. I also have a TALAS... If I had to do it again I'd stick with the FLOAT. Find I almost never drop the front anymore.
Did you run the DHX Air? My thoughts were the same on the Talas - wasn't sure I would drop it much. Having said that I have some pretty steep roads around me that I would need to peddle to get to the start of local trails so may use it.

Very curious about the DHX Air vs RP23 though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Updated to:
FRAME: Santa Cruz Nomad Carbon with selected components from X0 2x10 package Black w/Gold Large
Front Suspension Fork: Fox 36 Talas 160 FIT RLC Fork 20mm 1.5 Taper
Brake: Avid Elixir X0 Disc Brake Set Gold 185F 185R
Cassettes: Shimano XTR 10-Speed Cassette CS-M980 11/36
Chain Guide: None
Chains: KMC X9SL Chain Gold
Cranks: Truvativ X0 GXP 2.2 10-Speed Crankset- Black 175mm 39/26
Front Derailleurs: Shimano XTR Triple Front Derailleur FD-M980 28.6/31.8/34.9
Grips: ODI Rogue SRAM
Handlebars: Easton Haven Handlebar Black Low
Headset: Chris King InSet Model 5 Headset Gold
Pedals: None
Rear Derailleurs: Shimano XTR Shadow Rear Derailleur RD-M980 Medium
Rear Shock: Fox DHX 5.0 AIR
Saddles: WTB Rocket V Pro Saddle Black
Seatpost: Easton EA70 Zero Setback Seatpost 400mm 30.9mm
Shifter: Shimano XTR Rapidfire Plus Shift Levers SL-M980
Cables: None
Stems: Easton Haven Stem Black 55mm
Computers: None
Pre-Built Wheels: Mavic Crossmax ST Disc Wheelset 6 Bolt 20mm
Tubes: None
Tires - Front: Maxxis High Roller UST Tire UST Kevlar Bead 2.35
Tires - Rear: Maxxis High Roller UST Tire UST Kevlar Bead 2.35
Rimstrips: None
Skewers: None
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Jimba said:
You said above you want Sram shifters, cant use Sram shifter with Shimano R.D.

I always use a med cage because they have a bit more clearance and a bit lighter (not much), you can get away with a Med cage as long as you know to not cross gear.
Can I used sram x0 shifters for an xtr front derailer?
 

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Correct. I used an XT for the front as it works with SRAM shifters.
I damaged the paint on my rear triangle (thank God i caught it in time)
mtbmww said:
Build sounds nice, however, not sure about the XO front derailleur. A post yesterday started by Jason333 has someone else posting SCB's recommendations for a front derailleur. Seems like some folks are making SRAM front derailleurs work, however, you may want to double check this. My shop is putting a Shimano front derailleur on my otherwise XO build. Have a ton fun making this happen.
 
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