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Hi, I am after some advice on how to strip my frame for repainting, the frame is a 04 GT i-drive which is looking a bit tatty from a previous owner so over winter next year i plan to strip it back and treat it to a new paint job.

Any advice would be welcomed

Cheers.
 

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Hisforever
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use aircraft paint stripper on all the painted parts. its messy so cover BB/headset area etc... wear gloves....

1. apply it, let it bubble up & off, then scrape the paint away with a sharp edge. if theres any places with paint still repeat step 1.

Clean the tubing off all paint and the stripping residue. most paint store sections or even wal mart, have acetone readily available.

Prime it. dry it. Paint it then clear it.

You want to do this in a dry area free of flying debris so the paint comes out clean and smooth.
 

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ballbuster
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Took me forever...

kiwimtbr said:
Hi, I am after some advice on how to strip my frame for repainting, the frame is a 04 GT i-drive which is looking a bit tatty from a previous owner so over winter next year i plan to strip it back and treat it to a new paint job.

Any advice would be welcomed

Cheers.
But I used a mouse type sander on my old Trek 9500 frame. I could not use chemical stripper, becuase it was an epoxy bonded lugged aluminum frame.

I basically sanded the whole thing, but not down to the metal. I only sanded down to the metal in parts where there were chips and dents to try to smooth them out a bit.

I cleaned it with rubbing alcahol, primed with two full coats (sand and clean in between) and applied two coats of rattle can paint. I cleaned up some drips and boogers with a rag and alcahol before the paint cured.

It came out looking pretty good, and seems to be at least a little bit durable. There are no major ganks in the paint yet, and I've laid it down a couple of times.

One big tip here is to not touch it for a couple of days once you apply a coat and get it the way you want. Leave it hanging in the air to dry. I made the mistake of putting it in my repair stand before the paint cured and some of the paint came off on the stand. Doh!

I was going to do some custom graphics under clearcoat, but never got around to it.

Total time invested: about 15 hours over a month (half an hour here or there.... hey, I was unemployed at the time)
Total outlay in materials: about $25 (sandpaper, 3 cans of primer and 2 cans of paint)
 

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Sandblast...

kiwimtbr said:
Hi, I am after some advice on how to strip my frame for repainting, the frame is a 04 GT i-drive which is looking a bit tatty from a previous owner so over winter next year i plan to strip it back and treat it to a new paint job.

Any advice would be welcomed

Cheers.
its the cleanest and does the best job of stripping everytthing off the frame. You do have to be careful not to take metal off and need to be consistant.

You should be able to find a sandblasting booth through your local pro painting shop. Another nice thing is that you take the mess to someone else instead of having to deal with it.
 

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Media Blast...not sand

jrm said:
its the cleanest and does the best job of stripping everytthing off the frame. You do have to be careful not to take metal off and need to be consistant.

You should be able to find a sandblasting booth through your local pro painting shop. Another nice thing is that you take the mess to someone else instead of having to deal with it.
Using Chemicals is not a great idea, as it is corrosive if left on too long or some stripper gets trapped inside the frame. Sand Blasting is a good idea, but sand or shot peens the metal, which hardens it and could cause it to crack later on. Using plastic media is the best way to remove paint from any kind of surface, because the plastic beads are slightly stronger that the paint itself, therefore not doing anything to the metal at all. You just remove the paint, thats all. This is also a good way to remove paint to a surface you want to polish (swing arms). Good luck.
 

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WWYD?
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I just painted a frame...

I bought a new blue steel frame to repaint and sanded it down with steel wool.

I started with coarse steel wool and went down to a 000 fine in three grades. The coarse stuff can scratch down to the primer, so don't bear down so hard. It took less than an hour and the blue paint was dulled and thinned close to the white primer. I used about 8 pads and it came out smooth, but the frame didn't have any gouges or scratches. You could probably spray primer over the scratched spots and sand down. Or even use automotive bondo. It took primer really well and the paint job came out fine. I don't think you need to get to bare metal to repaint a frame.

I spray can painted it using a can and a half of Krylon and used a can of Krylon semi-matte and gloss top coat. I did this in the summer and the sun and heat really hardened the paint up great. Use a respirator and make a cardboard curtain to trap the overspray.

Have fun.
 

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Yes media blasting is the way to go. Do you have any friends that are car hobbiests? We actually have a media blasting cabinet for just that purpose. Other places to look would be autobody shops. Many of them would have it. Or just yellow-page it. It should be cheap. I would say no more then $15.00 to do it. Frames are tiny and would take 10 minutes (provided you use the right media). One word of caution, media gets everywhere (why the golden rule is to never blast an engine block!) You will never get it all out of every nook and cranny. I would suggest either prepping the frame yourself, or making sure the place that does it for you preps the frame well.
 

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ride hard take risks
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kiwimtbr said:
many thanks for all your input.Th e media blasting sounds like the way for me, now to find someone who can do it.Cheers
Excuse my ignatz, but im not familar with Media Blast. I know my powder coater uses bead blasting. Bead blasting also needs every thing you dont want blasted or filled with glass beads sealed.
 

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i like cheese.
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dogonfr said:
Excuse my ignatz, but im not familar with Media Blast. I know my powder coater uses bead blasting. Bead blasting also needs every thing you dont want blasted or filled with glass beads sealed.
Media blasting is the generic term form all sorts of 'blasting, be it sand, plastic, etc. Another media to look into is soda blasting, which provides a very clean smooth finish abrasive but not nearly as abrasive as sand.
However, I had a frame chemically stripped locally for ~$30, no mess no fuss. As far as corrosion, they cleaned it once. I took it home cleaned it again, wrapped it in newspaper to keep super dry. And then painted it myself, no corrosion to speak of...
 

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what kind of shop did you go to? the best i've found so far for a dip is $75 at a chrome shop.

since he'll be repainting the frame, might be best just to scuff the original paint and paint over it instead of going all the way to bare metal.
 

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drunkle said:
what kind of shop did you go to? the best i've found so far for a dip is $75 at a chrome shop.

since he'll be repainting the frame, might be best just to scuff the original paint and paint over it instead of going all the way to bare metal.
It was an industrial paint stripper...they do machinery and the like. It might be a chain, called Redi-Strip here in Phoenix. Mine was between $30-40.

You get a quote on chroming a frame? I was thinking of doing a plated frame some time....mmmm...nickel...copper...
 

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bike=good said:
It was an industrial paint stripper...they do machinery and the like. It might be a chain, called Redi-Strip here in Phoenix. Mine was between $30-40.

You get a quote on chroming a frame? I was thinking of doing a plated frame some time....mmmm...nickel...copper...
no, just the quote on stripping ($75) and polishing ($100). wouldn't want to chrome an aluminum frame, i dont think.
 

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Here's a suggestion. Have your frame powdercoated. I've had three frames powdercoated and never paid more than $50 per frame. They bead blast the frame as part of the powdercoating. They have a great selection of colors and it's much more durable than paint. They mask off all the parts of the frame that shouldn't be bead blasted and powdercoated. The only problem I've encountered (and it's very minor) is the thickness of the coating. For instance, I had an 80's road frame with downtube shifter bosses coated and they forgot to mask the shifter bosses. I couldn't slip the shift levers back on the bosses without shaving off the powdercoat. I remember an episode of Orange County Choppers where they had a frame powdercoated and had a devil of a time getting the fork together because they didn't account for the thickness of the coat. It might be thick enough to throw off the alignment of a disk brake caliper. Again, you can just scrape off the coating. For the price of the chemicals you would have to buy to do a good strip job you can let someone else do all the work and have a finished product that looks good and is extremely durable. Look for a powdercoater who does a lot of farm machinery. They're usually pretty cheap (often VERY cheap if you like the color they're currently using and they can just include your frame in the same batch).
 

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dogonfr said:
Excuse my ignatz, but im not familar with Media Blast. I know my powder coater uses bead blasting. Bead blasting also needs every thing you dont want blasted or filled with glass beads sealed.
Glass beads peen the metal, you don't want that. It is also used for corrosion removal.
Just use plastic media, it is the way to go. Also...someone asked about polishing or chroming. I would polish, one reason is that once chrome gets something under it, it is done, you have to start over. Also...once it is scrastches, it doesnt come back. Polishing is easy, after you blast the paint off, just take 400 grit, then 600 grit, then 600 grit wet and sand it. After that take never dull and you will have your frame looking like chrome in no time.
 

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It's definitely a professional job. All three frames look great and the powdercoat is tough as nails. Yes, it is a great price and impossible to beat any other way, including do it yourself. I think the key is to use a powdercoater that does stuff like farm machinery or industrial parts. They tend to be lower cost.
 
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