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I know this should go in the brake forum but so many here have Monocog 29ers that I thought it might get a little more exposure here.

When adding disks and running the cable do you run the cable with the jacket the full length? if so do you just drill out the cable stop thingies so that the extra thickness passes through?

From monocog
 

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BrandonNorCal said:
I know this should go in the brake forum but so many here have Monocog 29ers that I thought it might get a little more exposure here.

When adding disks and running the cable do you run the cable with the jacket the full length? if so do you just drill out the cable stop thingies so that the extra thickness passes through?

From monocog
Several options.

You could drill out the cable stops and run full housing. I did that on my Karate monkey and previously on a Trek 8000. Those doo-hickey bolt on cable jobbies to avoid drilling are a constant source of pain and need tightening adjusting all the time. I tried that first on my KM before drilling away.

The other way is to use the Avid or Jagwire or Problem Solver stick on cable guides which stick to your top tube and then you run a zip tie around the cable to snug it in tight to the stick on cable guide. I've done this on my Dos Niner in one spot to keep the cable nice and secure on the top tube without having any slack.

Weight wise, if you are concerned by weight, you can run the cable to the cable stops and between the stops use the Jagwire (or another brand of cable cover liner) between the stops so that you are still running a full length compressionless system. This will be 20 - 30 grams "lighter" than a full brake housing run. See the Avid Flak Jacket system to get a better picture of what I am talking about.

The cool thing about the Avid BB7's - even using just about any cheap full run housing, the performance will be good. Just be sure the ends are cut nice and flat and you open up the hole for the cable to prevent any drag. I would not grease the cable at all. Just a plain old galvinized steel cable run dry makes for excellent performance. Adjust the spring rate on the caliper and the lever to adjust the feel.

If drilling, just be careful that the angle you have to drill gets the head of the drill right up against the frame which can remove paint from your top tube. Be very careful. Been there, done that. Twice. Once on aluminum and the second time on steel.

BB
 
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