ACS knocks
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Ahh, yes. The Claws Klunk. It has happened to ever ACS FW I have used. One started doing it after 15 miles.
You can quiet it for a while by soaking the FW in synthetic motor oil but it will come back. If you soak a new, unused FW it will delay the klunk but it will happen. If the klunk is already bad soaking may not help.
I switched to White Industries ENO FWs several years ago.
You can quiet it for a while by soaking the FW in synthetic motor oil but it will come back. If you soak a new, unused FW it will delay the klunk but it will happen. If the klunk is already bad soaking may not help.
I switched to White Industries ENO FWs several years ago.
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1,503 Posts
The grease in them also hates the cold. I was developing a new training technique to keep me on my toes, it is called "freewheel in both directions". Obviously, there is very little power transfer to the ground when it is free in both directions.tryjordan said:
Shiggy can attest to that, as we were riding in the snow/cold a few years back.
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1,555 Posts
Or an ENO.
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395 Posts
Rebuilding helps!
When I had Claws I would repack all of the from the start and it helps tons. You can even do it without removing it from the hub. Just be prepared for a lot of bearings to come out and COUNT the bearings so you know how many need to go on each side (The number isn't the same for front and back, I wish I could remember exacty how many but it's fourty something.) You can also remove some micro thin washers to remove some play in the freewheel. To grease the bearings and pawls I use Park Poly lube cut with Phil Tenacious oil. You don't want to use too thick a grease or the pawls will stick and get that "Freewheel in both directions" Zen dicotomy thingy. This will also quite up your freewheel quite a bit. To remove and tighten the lockring on the freewheel I'd use a small pointed punch and a hammer. The two holes in the lockring are for a BB tool but I've found the hammer and punch to be easier and quicker to apply force/torque. It's reverse thread so righty=loosey. When you get the lockring off you'll see the washers that sit directly under it. These are how you adjust play in the freewheel. It's a process of removing a single one, tighten the lockring down, check the freewheel and make sure it's adjusted ok (i.e no play, or no binding) and if it's not right start over. Second you probably notice a lot of tiny bearings. This is when your gonna want to start counting. Next a magnet is super useful in getting the bearings out neatly. If you want to know more let me know....this is getting way long and probably boring.
When I had Claws I would repack all of the from the start and it helps tons. You can even do it without removing it from the hub. Just be prepared for a lot of bearings to come out and COUNT the bearings so you know how many need to go on each side (The number isn't the same for front and back, I wish I could remember exacty how many but it's fourty something.) You can also remove some micro thin washers to remove some play in the freewheel. To grease the bearings and pawls I use Park Poly lube cut with Phil Tenacious oil. You don't want to use too thick a grease or the pawls will stick and get that "Freewheel in both directions" Zen dicotomy thingy. This will also quite up your freewheel quite a bit. To remove and tighten the lockring on the freewheel I'd use a small pointed punch and a hammer. The two holes in the lockring are for a BB tool but I've found the hammer and punch to be easier and quicker to apply force/torque. It's reverse thread so righty=loosey. When you get the lockring off you'll see the washers that sit directly under it. These are how you adjust play in the freewheel. It's a process of removing a single one, tighten the lockring down, check the freewheel and make sure it's adjusted ok (i.e no play, or no binding) and if it's not right start over. Second you probably notice a lot of tiny bearings. This is when your gonna want to start counting. Next a magnet is super useful in getting the bearings out neatly. If you want to know more let me know....this is getting way long and probably boring.
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395 Posts
Oh and BTW I own an ENO now so no more of this rebuilding stuff!
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7,825 Posts
That is 3 freehubs and 3 wheel builds! :eekster:pitmang1 said:
Just picked up an ENO for $61 on eBay (4x the ACS/Shimano cost) for the Inbred 29er, and have my eye on one for the San Jose CX that is migrating to a Cross Check (eventually plan on a Surly flip flop fix/fw). The SS 26" bike has a Shimano that does not clunk. That will restore my sanity for now.
Seems Shimano only does 16, 17, 18T cogs?? So my current 20T and 22T are Klunky Klaws. And I'll have ENOs for those two.
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