[BmoreKen]

I've been riding SPDs for a long time. Every once in a while, I'll get a spate of accidental unclips, always at the worst time - like while pulling up when getting over a big log or jump. Sometimes tightening the release helps, other times I need to replace the cleat, and more rarely I need to replace the pedal and cleat.

But I'm wondering - are Times better in this regard? I mean, sure, you still need to replace the cleats with wear, but are the accidental unclips more rare with Times?

I'm thinking about trying the Time Speciale 8...

I'm not really interested in CB, given the numbers of friends who have had the pedal pull away from the axle.

 

[ungod]

Time definitely hasn't been helping with my accidental releases.

 

[WHALENARD]

Ht T1's are killer pedals.

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[Jayem]

Usually this is due to worn cleats. The brass-cleat pedals, like Time/CB, tend to be a little worse in this regard IME, but either kind can wear down. Time WILL hold you a little better during that type of situation, but IME the tradeoff is they do not release as easy, they require more angular deflection as compared to yanking on shimanos, this means more slow speed falls IME. Not necessarily radically more, but this is the tradeoff IME, you can't twist your heel out in some situations, like when you are off balance and the chainstay is in the way, in those limited situations, it's easier to get out with the shimano SPD IME. Typically, retention is pretty good for shimano...but multi-release cleats or their lower end commuting SPD pedals can sabotage you.

 

[teK--]

Learn how to keep the pedals weighted properly instead of pulling up. Relearning how to ride by using flat pedals helps. Then use clipless only for races.

 

[mtnbkrmike]

Been riding Time ATAC pedals on multiple bikes for well over 15 years. I have always had a lot more bikes with Times equipped, than shoes. As a result, I have numerous brand new cleats still in the plastic bag, well over 10 years old (since I generally only have about 3 pair of cleated shoes I use between all my bikes). I have been 185 pounds plus gear for as long as I can remember.

Accidentally unclipping has never been an issue for me. So has not unclipping when I want to.

Are they perfect? Maybe. Or is it because I have been using them on my daily road bike commuters (including a fixed gear), and mountain dedicated bikes for well over a decade, and have amassed a gazillion miles on them over that time, resulting in me knowing them inside and out? Maybe. Maybe a bit of both.

As for worn cleats, AFAIK, I am running cleats that are 15 years old on my go to shoes. I have them positioned on my shoes in the easier of the two positions to release. As you likely know, with all Time pedals, you can switch them to make the side rotation greater before they release - I have never found the need, even with these ooooooold, HEAVILY worn cleats I still use, to do this. In fact, BITD, there was a bit of a cottage industry on eBay, where you could buy old, worn out brass Time cleats, because noobs felt more comfortable using them.

If they ever started releasing accidentally, I could always switch them between shoes (left to right, and right to left) and increase the effort/side rotation required to release them. Maybe that won’t help with heavily worn cleats that DO begin releasing accidentally. I don’t know. God bless anyone that can amass the mileage required to wear them down to that point.

I understand that the newer Time pedals are nowhere near the quality of the older ones. I do have a pair that are about 4 or 5 years old or so that I am running on my fixed gear, that my LBS gave me for free (they were lightly used demo pedals when I got them). I haven’t had a problem with them, but they only see pavement and light duty commuting dirt. But they are on a fixed gear, so there’s that I guess.

As an aside, I have a bearing kit I bought probably 10 years ago that I still have not had to use.

TL; DR - there is little to no risk of Time pedals accidentally releasing, even using 15 year old, worn out brass cleats in the easier releasing of the two positions you can run them, on 15 year old ATAC pedals. Confirmed user, but only of older Time pedals. I can’t speak to anything manufactured in the last 5 to 10 years, because I run older ones that will. Not. Die.

 

[127.0.0.1]

sorry but for me Time is the king of accidental release, due to the characteristics of how I put power down and pull up hard a ton and whatnot. kept coming out and tried to train my brain for 1.5 years and then just chucked them out of frustration.

SPD for me, super consistent never popping out unless wanted

 

[DoctorJD]

I started running SPDs (XTR trail) back in 18'. I also have SPDs on my gravel bike. I've had very few incidents of random unclipping. In most cases, I simply wasn't fully engaged to start with. I run the tension pretty light, as well. Great pedals.

 

[Mike Aswell]

I believe (anecdotally) that they are polarizing pedals but I never have issues with CB. I run different ones on different bikes (have and use eggbeaters on a gravel bike and candy's and mallets on tail bikes). Unless your cleats are trashed they really don't release unless you rotate your foot outward.

 

[mtnbkrmike]

I believe (anecdotally) that they are polarizing pedals but I never have issues with CB. I run different ones on different bikes (have and use eggbeaters on a gravel bike and candy's and mallets on tail bikes). Unless your cleats are trashed they really don't release unless you rotate your foot outward.

Apparently they can all be polarizing 😝

 

[Mountainfrog]

I found that the spring tension does change over a long period of time on my XT SPD's. Not a lot but enough so that I sometimes unclipped when unweighting the bikes. My resolution was to increase spring tension over time. It only has to happen once to become un-nerving. I started at two clicks out at new, now at 4 and 5 on two sets. Smacking pedals on rocks will also totally change the spring tension on one side, so consider that also. I ruined a new set (my only) of XTR's on a rock strike years ago, too much sag, lesson learned. I replace cleats on a regular basis, system works proper that way.

 

[TwoTone]

Been riding Time ATAC pedals on multiple bikes for well over 15 years. I have always had a lot more bikes with Times equipped, than shoes. As a result, I have numerous brand new cleats still in the plastic bag, well over 10 years old (since I generally only have about 3 pair of cleated shoes I use between all my bikes). I have been 185 pounds plus gear for as long as I can remember.

Accidentally unclipping has never been an issue for me. So has not unclipping when I want to.

Are they perfect? Maybe. Or is it because I have been using them on my daily road bike commuters (including a fixed gear), and mountain dedicated bikes for well over a decade, and have amassed a gazillion miles on them over that time, resulting in me knowing them inside and out? Maybe. Maybe a bit of both.

As for worn cleats, AFAIK, I am running cleats that are 15 years old on my go to shoes. I have them positioned on my shoes in the easier of the two positions to release. As you likely know, with all Time pedals, you can switch them to make the side rotation greater before they release - I have never found the need, even with these ooooooold, HEAVILY worn cleats I still use, to do this. In fact, BITD, there was a bit of a cottage industry on eBay, where you could buy old, worn out brass Time cleats, because noobs felt more comfortable using them.

If they ever started releasing accidentally, I could always switch them between shoes (left to right, and right to left) and increase the effort/side rotation required to release them. Maybe that won’t help with heavily worn cleats that DO begin releasing accidentally. I don’t know. God bless anyone that can amass the mileage required to wear them down to that point.

I understand that the newer Time pedals are nowhere near the quality of the older ones. I do have a pair that are about 4 or 5 years old or so that I am running on my fixed gear, that my LBS gave me for free (they were lightly used demo pedals when I got them). I haven’t had a problem with them, but they only see pavement and light duty commuting dirt. But they are on a fixed gear, so there’s that I guess.

As an aside, I have a bearing kit I bought probably 10 years ago that I still have not had to use.

TL; DR - there is little to no risk of Time pedals accidentally releasing, even using 15 year old, worn out brass cleats in the easier releasing of the two positions you can run them, on 15 year old ATAC pedals. Confirmed user, but only of older Time pedals. I can’t speak to anything manufactured in the last 5 to 10 years, because I run older ones that will. Not. Die.

I bought a pair of XC12 at a steep discount. I wish I had never sold my old ones when I went to flats.

I also like that Times have more float, my knees notice a difference.

 

[kevine1785]

I have been on CB's for over a decade. I am not in-love with them, but its the ecosystem I bought into.. and i'll be damned if I am changing now. SPD in most respects are superior in almost every way (except mud clearance and weight)... but never used Time.

 

[Smiles for miles]

SPD and SPD clones by other manufacturers are the most reliable in terms of mechanism and cleat (steel). Sometimes I have to cut out some of the rubber sole of the shoe if it's close to the cleat, since that can cause releases. Also there needs to be space between the sole of the shoe and the top of the cleat. Some shoes have curves or extra material there that can make the latch unsecure. If your shoes are like that you can put washers between the cleat and the sole, but you might need longer screws.

 

[TwoTone]

SPD and SPD clones by other manufacturers are the most reliable in terms of mechanism and cleat (steel). Sometimes I have to cut out some of the rubber sole of the shoe if it's close to the cleat, since that can cause releases. Also there needs to be space between the sole of the shoe and the top of the cleat. Some shoes have curves or extra material there that can make the latch unsecure. If your shoes are like that you can put washers between the cleat and the sole, but you might need longer screws.

What are you basing the proclamation that SPDs are the most reliable?

 

[WHALENARD]

The HT pedals are an SPD/Crank brother hybrid. They don't accidentally release, at all.

They're just as easy to clip into if not identical to SPD. But that's it, clipping out is a lot more precise, no vagueness. And the float feels a lot different, removes that skating feeling. The latter is a feature I really really like. Also, while the cage footprint is no bigger it's a completely different design providing much more positive shoe sole/cage contact.

I've been riding SPD's literally since they were invented and the HT T1's are just a better evolution of that mechanism. I'll never be going back to SPD's.

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[Smiles for miles]

What are you basing the proclamation that SPDs are the most reliable?

35 years of riding, including 25 years on clipless pedals from many different companies (Time, SPD, Crank brothers, Look). SPDs weigh more, but they have superior engineering and materials for the job. I've heard HT SPD clones are also good.

 

[TwoTone]

35 years of riding, including 25 years on clipless pedals from many different companies (Time, SPD, Crank brothers, Look). SPDs weigh more, but they have superior engineering and materials for the job. I've heard HT SPD clones are also good.

So based on that, I proclaim Time ATAC to be the best preformer when it comes to clipless pedals.

 

[Sidewalk]

I haven't had a problem with either, that I can remember.

But I also do most of my riding with flat pedals on the MTB. Proper riding skills helps prevent accidental unclipping

 

[shadowsports]

I don't remember the last time I unclipped unintentionally from my SPD's. Never really cared for TA's

I clean and grease my pedals about 3-4 times a year. I replace my cleats every couple of years. I have to kick my heel out pretty far to unclip (SH-51's). When I buy a new pair of shoes, I often mount the cleat on loosely, then clip the shoe to the pedal and adjust the cleat forward/backwards until the angle of the shoe is right for top or bottom dead center. Huge difference in comfort when the shoe is horizontal to the plane of the pedal. No mishaps either.