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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
just picked up an 03 bianchi siss with a Spot rear disc hub. great bike. read product reviews about others' experiences with their Spot hub's end cones being overtightened from factory and leading to hub failure. i know this is really relative, but i noticed that my rear wheel doesn't seem to spin that freely-- the friction seems generally ok with a good push, but a gentle effort results in an almost immediate stop, perhaps 1/4 revolution, if that. my other bikes seem to go on a little longer, even going the reverse direction after it stops. definitely not this one. anyway, took it to lbs and they said it was fine, no problem.

what's normal for a Spot ss disc hub? generally? how much friction acceptable? am i being neurotic? don't want to have to rebuild $155 Spot hub. many tia.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
btw, i would normally do this repair myself, i.e., loosen nuts and cones and finger retighten, but don't presently have the necessary cog removal tool or chain whip to do it. before investing in these tools, just wanted to know if i have to. thanks again.
 

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siss-yman said:
what's normal for a Spot ss disc hub? generally? how much friction acceptable? am i being neurotic? don't want to have to rebuild $155 Spot hub. many tia.
I have the non-disc version, and recently did a bearing replacement, and as you mentioned, with the right tools, it's not too hard. As far as smoothness in spinning, the sealed bearings will create more drag because of the fact that they are sealed. This is probably what you are noticing. I'm at work so I can't check mine right now for comparison, but I'd say if you can't feel or hear any roughness in the spin, then you're probably okay. If you really want to check, you can try taking the wheel off the bike and spin it while holding it in your hands by the axle. This doesn't account for possible sideloading while mounted, but should give you a general feel for how smoothly it is or isn't turning. Also, FYI - Spot hubs use standard replacement bearings that will only run you about $8/hub through QBP.

-Josh
 

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I'm not sure what's acceptable but..

I also have a Bianchi SISS w/ the same rear hub and when I got it it was so tight and grinds when it spins. It's worth to get that freewheel removal tool and it's not expensive. I got mine for $ 6.00. I did not take the hub fully apart but just loosen the nut and gave the axle a good wack on both sides and hand tighten it back. Before when I spin the wheel it will just stop after one and a half revolution but now after the wacking it spins smoothly and it does not stop abruptly like before but spins to a slow stop. I hope this helps. Also do a search on Spot hubs in this forum for a more detailed explanation.
 

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siss-yman said:
just picked up an 03 bianchi siss with a Spot rear disc hub. great bike. read product reviews about others' experiences with their Spot hub's end cones being overtightened from factory and leading to hub failure. i know this is really relative, but i noticed that my rear wheel doesn't seem to spin that freely-- the friction seems generally ok with a good push, but a gentle effort results in an almost immediate stop, perhaps 1/4 revolution, if that. my other bikes seem to go on a little longer, even going the reverse direction after it stops. definitely not this one. anyway, took it to lbs and they said it was fine, no problem.

what's normal for a Spot ss disc hub? generally? how much friction acceptable? am i being neurotic? don't want to have to rebuild $155 Spot hub. many tia.
My '03 spun nice and easy from day one and still does today. Guess I got lucky.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks guys for the help! sorry for the neurotic question. but yea, the wheel spins smooth without roughness, also when off the bike and in my hands-- it's just doesn't spin freely. does not appear to be grinding (at least what i can tell) and the drivetrain feels smooth when accelerating and coasting. if the end cones were too tight, would i feel a noticeable roughness and drag when riding? even if not grinding, possible that it's too tight? guess i'm just looking for general guidance. in the end, looks like i'll just by a freewheel remover and do it myself. any rec's on which one for the bmw freewheel used by bianchi/spot? thanks again.
 

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cloughja said:
I have the non-disc version, and recently did a bearing replacement, and as you mentioned, with the right tools, it's not too hard. As far as smoothness in spinning, the sealed bearings will create more drag because of the fact that they are sealed. This is probably what you are noticing. I'm at work so I can't check mine right now for comparison, but I'd say if you can't feel or hear any roughness in the spin, then you're probably okay. If you really want to check, you can try taking the wheel off the bike and spin it while holding it in your hands by the axle. This doesn't account for possible sideloading while mounted, but should give you a general feel for how smoothly it is or isn't turning.
Mine failed. I took it to the shop and they replaced the bearing but charged labor. The thing was cranked down again. I took the cog off with my $6 fw tool and found that the dude damaged the axle when banging it out. He didn't put the bolt in to bang it out. I just loosened the cones gave each side a quick hit with a mallet and tightened them on loosely. The thing never spun so smoothly before. Incidently, I never really noticed noise from mine before failure. I've had it over the hubs in mud (not so good for any hub) and it is still going strong. My fw on the other hand can't take that abuse.

Pick up the fw tool and check the set up. Hopefully the fw is on "hulk tight".

GP
 

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might wanna try and ride it around a little and see if it loosens up a little just by riding it and getting everything working together... maybe it's just a little over greased or something that a couple thousand rotations will smooth out naturally.

if it still feels tight after a ride you might have cause to worry a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Pigtire said:
Like what GP said before you wack that axle make sure you thread the bolt more than half way in before you wack it because the axle is made out of aluminum.
sorry for my ignorance, but i'm not following. make sure you thread the bolt more than half way in . . . halfway of what? also, which freewheel remover do you use? tia
 

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siss-yman said:
sorry for my ignorance, but i'm not following. make sure you thread the bolt more than half way in . . . halfway of what? also, which freewheel remover do you use? tia[/QUOT

You need to undo the hex bolt in order to take of the wheel. Once you take it off and loosen the caps that covers the bearings. Screw back the bolts in the axle before you wack it w/ a rubber mallet. I wish I have photos to show you but my digicam is not working.

Or better yet, try this link.

http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Hub/product_121841.shtml
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Pigtire said:
siss-yman said:
sorry for my ignorance, but i'm not following. make sure you thread the bolt more than half way in . . . halfway of what? also, which freewheel remover do you use? tia[/QUOT

You need to undo the hex bolt in order to take of the wheel. Once you take it off and loosen the caps that covers the bearings. Screw back the bolts in the axle before you wack it w/ a rubber mallet. I wish I have photos to show you but my digicam is not working.

Or better yet, try this link.

http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Hub/product_121841.shtml
thanks.
 
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