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Was looking for info last night and all the threads were from 2017. Looking for current opinions from who’s running them or if you tried it and went back. Currently on Eagle with a 30T and I’m happy with the set up. If I go oval do you upsize?
TIA.
 

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I really like ovals but my newest bike has a 32t oval or a 30t round minimum requirements. I did try a 30t oval but it was a no go. Anyhoo I switched from a 32t oval to a 30t round due to the fact I was having a hard time pushing the 32t oval and the round was well 2 teeth easier. I've heard reports that a 2 tooth oval was only 1 tooth harder than a round with 2 less teeth (if that makes sense) but it feels like a 2 tooth gap to me. I still really like the oval and I wish I could fit a 30t on my rig but I can't.
 

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I had one for a few months now and absolutely love it. It feels like "cheating" on technical climbs. I can clean technical features that I had hard time clearing before. I went down a size because I was looking to go down 1 size anyway. If you are happy with the current size then I suggest you go with that.
 

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I’d recommend sticking with your current tooth size. I used to run a 32 round and then a 30 round. Tried 28 oval, and while it was great for a break on super steep climbs it would mess me up on loose tech sections it was just too low. I ended up going back to 32 oval and love it but would still like slightly lower at times. Just depends on your fitness and riding conditions of course.
I wouldn’t say ovals spin easier, but they allow me easier control of how much power I’m putting down and it’s noticeable on tech and loose climbs.
 

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I've been running AB oval 30T chainrings on 29ers with 10-42 cassettes for the past few years. I really like them and will continue to use them. I can mash 30-42 up most hills in SoCal.

My wife runs 10-50 Eagle with a 30T on a 29er. Having a little less leg strength (lb for lb), she needs a little more gear...and it takes some stress off her knees.
 

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I did try one for a few rides but didn't like it. Was on a 32 round and tried a 32 oval. I would struggle at higher rpm and couldn't match the cadence properly. Theoretically it makes sense to me and obviously it works for lots of others but I didn't enjoy it. No harm in trying though, maybe grab a second hand one or one of the non branded ones as a tester (the oval shape and clocking is pretty much the same for the majority of them i believe)
 

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I have a 30T oval Wolftooth & briefly used a Raceface 30T oval. I honestly can't tell a difference between round & oval. Maybe if I had 2 identical bikes one round one oval I could make out an incremental difference.
 

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I have the 30t 1x on my beater bike whose idiot designer didn't put a fd mount on. It's ok. I ride both oval and round and my riding has been impacted less than going from black to red.
 

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I clean techy stuff easier (more traction with oval), less "stall" time at bad torque angles with the cranks.

My knees hurt less with oval than round.

I cannot spin fast (over 90 RPM) with oval compared to round. It is more suited to slower cadence IMO.
 

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Only run Oval CR's...

It's a chainring, similar price to round, why wouldn't ya??

Rule of thumb is, if you're running a 30t round... a comparable oval would be 28t i.e. it's 28t (wide) at it's narrowest point and 30t (wide) at it's widest.

You'd probably be ok w/ a 30t Oval though.

I run 30(Oval)/11~42 on my AM HT 29er & on my big bike, I run 28(Oval)/11~50...

Could have got away with 30t Oval on my 160mm FS 29" rig. Have found though, I'm using more of my cassette i.e. 4 largest cogs = uphill, 4 middle cogs = traversing, 4 smallest cogs = DH.

Don't go near smaller 3rd on my HT o_0

Oval FTW!!

'Born to ride!'
 

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I'd use the same size. They smoothen out the tourque, but don't add power. For me they spin well, and work well at low rpm.

I added an 26T AB oval ring to my fatbike because deep snow made my round ring going from spinning to being stuck in one revolution. The oval resolved that.

Because it was so great I also added an 36T to my hybrid. Complete different riding, but also seems beneficial on steep hills or spinning high.

I
 

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I need to add that an oval ring has caused me to have to replace my rear derailleur clutch every season, something you should be aware of.
That's a bit concerning, considering I'm installing XX1 AXS on my bike and a replacement derailleur for that drivetrain is no joke in terms of cost. What kind of derailleur are you running?
 

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I swapped a 32T Sram stock chainring on my FEX 9.8 for a 30T Absolute Black oval- 2 rides and very impressed. Smoother power delivery on difficult uphill sections and long climbs, really like it so far. If there is a negative, it seems gear changes perhaps not as smooth as stock Scram set up. Could this be install, don't know, maybe others could chime in here. Definite recommend giving a try.
 

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I like the oval for high effort stuff, especially low RPM high effort. I don't notice it much at high RPM's, but does feel weird at low efforts (which when racing XC never happens). I currently have a round on my bikes, but will be going through and getting ovals as the opportunity arrives.

I need to add that an oval ring has caused me to have to replace my rear derailleur clutch every season, something you should be aware of.
I have about 2000 miles on my XX1 with oval, no problems.
 

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Why/how does the ovality affect the clutch ? :eekster:
Theoretically the ovality is shortening then lengthening the chain & the derailleur would compensate (constantly moving). I just installed a new short cage derailluer and the instructions have you set the suspension @ max growth & factor in any oval chain ring growth. I spun the cranks and watched the derailluer to find this point and to be honest I could not detect enough derailluer movement for compensation. I'd think normal riding would put way more stress on a clutch.
 

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I run Shimano, the clutch is $10 or so. I tried re-greasing it, but it didn't even last a ride. I now replace the clutch once a year as a maintenance bit.

That's a bit concerning, considering I'm installing XX1 AXS on my bike and a replacement derailleur for that drivetrain is no joke in terms of cost. What kind of derailleur are you running?
 
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