[mtnbikerva1]

Trying to be prepared and have a bottom bracket ready at the appropriate time when my original one wears out. I was told my bottom bracket is the 86/92 DUB specific for my SRAM EAGLE X01 super boost plus drive train.
2021/2 PIVOT Trail 429.
THANK YOU MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR!

 

[Hexsense]

No idea what ABEC rating is.
But I know it's a custom sized 40mm OD and 29mm ID. The bearing itself is not supposed to be replaced. The whole bearing is replaced together.


If you want something better, consider BBinfinite BB92 for Dub (29mm) MTB Crank Sets
Otherwise, replace with the same bb from Sram.

 

[dan l]

ABEC relates to the precision the bearing was manufactured to. Many smaller/Chinese companies lie about the ABEC ratings of their bearings and thus the quality. Therefore it does not mean as much as it should when shopping for replacement bearings.

 

[Jayem]

ABEC relates to the precision the bearing was manufactured to. Many smaller/Chinese companies lie about the ABEC ratings of their bearings and thus the quality. Therefore it does not mean as much as it should when shopping for replacement bearings.

Does it?

SKF

www.skf.com

 

[dan l]

Does it?

SKF

www.skf.com

Exactly which part of my post are you objecting to? I specifically read the skf material as a reference before posting as I consider them a reputable manufacturer.

Consider me confused.

 

[Cleaner]

ABEC cross reference to common global industry standards,
ABEC scale - Wikipedia

INA/F.A.G, SKF, NSK do not use ABEC in any of their catalogues that I have seen. If you buy a replacement bearing made by one of these manufacturers it will far exceed the quality of the Chinese made private label options sold under bike brands. Get them from an authorized distributor in your country to avoid the many counterfeits that are sold on Ebay, Amazon, etc.

You do not need an aerospace grade bearing in your bike. Stainless balls and races will work reliably. Do not waste your money on the ceramic bearings peddled by the boutique bike brands either if you want something that works and will last a reasonable life in application.

 

[mtnbikerva1]

Per SKF: Precision ABEC 5 and ABEC 7 bearings
Built for high speed, extreme running accuracy
Precision ball bearings in tolerance grades ABEC-5 and ABEC-7 are recommended for applications where high speed and/or extreme running accuracy is required.
These bearings have the same nominal external dimensions as equivalent size ABEC-1 grade bearings, but running characteristics and external dimensions are held to closer tolerances.

 

[mtnbikerva1]

SKF

www.skf.com

ABEC 3 RATING Per SKF

 

[eri]

What has happened to this thread?

Problem with quality replacement bearings is that they cost most than a new bb. And they won’t keep out mud and water any better so nuked quickly when used as bb.

Track how long your bb last, see if spending more makes sense financially.

I’ve been happy with my ck. Cane creek has some new ones that might be great - anyone tried them?

 

[teK--]

If concern is of sealing quality, why is ABEC even part of the discussion? The latter has nothing to do with how good the seals are with keeping out gunk.

I get 2 seasons out of my Dub BBs. Setting the preload correctly goes a long way, as well as removing the crank mid season and giving it all a good clean and regrease.

 

[Cleared2land]

Trying to be prepared and have a bottom bracket ready at the appropriate time when my original one wears out.

What are you doing now to service and maintain your BB?

 

[mtnbikerva1]

What has happened to this thread?

Problem with quality replacement bearings is that they cost most than a new bb. And they won’t keep out mud and water any better so nuked quickly when used as bb.

Track how long your bb last, see if spending more makes sense financially.

I’ve been happy with my ck. Cane creek has some new ones that might be great - anyone tried them?

What are you doing now to service and maintain your BB?

I just got the 429 Enduro Tuesday night, built it and did first ride of 14 miles on various terrain of up and down. No mud or water crossings. I try to avoid getting water in places where grease is supposed to be. I hardly ever wash the bike only concern is a clean and lubed drivetrain.
Like I said before I like to have my replacement BB waiting in the wings, so I have it when I need it. I trust this federal administration especially, to continue to put us in a recession or depression and continue to destroy everything including the supply and delivery of products. This is why I am trying to discern, is it better to buy 2-3 OEM BB (if they only last a season and are draggy, low quality unit as a whole) or if possible to buy a replacement that will last longer and perform superiorly to the multiple OEM DUB BB.
I really like my SRAM products over my Shimano, so I do not have what I consider a unreasonable hatred of the SRAM BB. Trying to be prepared for the future, properly.

 

[Cleared2land]

Problem with quality replacement bearings is that they... won’t keep out mud and water any better so nuked quickly when used as bb.
Track how long your bb last, see if spending more makes sense financially.

If concern is of sealing quality, why is ABEC even part of the discussion? The latter has nothing to do with how good the seals are with keeping out gunk.

No bearing, regardless of ABEC quality will continue to perform as intended if bearing contamination can't be kept in check. Seals work as intended when operating in a marginal contamination environment, but there are some standard practices that can be incorporated to minimize or eliminate water, dirt/dust from even reaching the bearing seals.

Servicing and maintaining your bearings will significantly extend the service life, but it’s your call if you would prefer to just replace them on a regular basis. I prefer maintaining them over replacement. It’s cheaper and easy enough. I have a Wheels Manufacturing BB that has a bit over 8.400 miles on original bearings still running strong.

 

[mtnbikerva1]

What has happened to this thread?

Problem with quality replacement bearings is that they cost most than a new bb. And they won’t keep out mud and water any better so nuked quickly when used as bb.

Track how long your bb last, see if spending more makes sense financially.

I’ve been happy with my ck. Cane creek has some new ones that might be great - anyone tried them?

Ok maybe I need to clarify.
I KNOW what makes for a quality cartridge bearing is:

A) materials used/alloys etc that is used to manufacture the races, treatments, coatings, bearings, seals, retainers, etc.
B) the ABEC rating is a way to quantify the bearings quality or lack there of, how round the bearings are
C) Seal material placement and number of seals, along with quality of manufacturing and quality control
D) Quality standards and quality control of the unit as a whole
E) Also the receptacle that the bearing is going into is important also.
F) Almost forgot GREASE quality and possibly zirks to fill with grease and push water out, or a way to get old grease and unwanted stuff out and new grease in.

 

[eri]

I just got the 429 Enduro Tuesday night, built it and did first ride of 14 miles on various terrain of up and down. No mud or water crossings. I try to avoid getting water in places where grease is supposed to be. I hardly ever wash the bike only concern is a clean and lubed drivetrain.
Like I said before I like to have my replacement BB waiting in the wings, so I have it when I need it. I trust this federal administration especially, to continue to put us in a recession or depression and continue to destroy everything including the supply and delivery of products. This is why I am trying to discern, is it better to buy 2-3 OEM BB (if they only last a season and are draggy, low quality unit as a whole) or if possible to buy a replacement that will last longer and perform superiorly to the multiple OEM DUB BB.
I really like my SRAM products over my Shimano, so I do not have what I consider a unreasonable hatred of the SRAM BB. Trying to be prepared for the future, properly.

Everyone’s riding conditions are different. Probably doesn’t make sense financially to buy parts you aren’t sure you need. Some folks in dry regions go years on sram bb.

My trails are sometimes like creeks, I ride in mixed snow and mud and go through low end bb/headset pretty quickly. It kept happening until I bought better parts, now they’re lasting. For hs I’m using a cane creek 110. For bb I have a pf30 from Chris king. The ck let’s me purge grease from inside, it overfills bearings but unit has been flawless now for >5000 miles of singlespeeding. I actually have saved money spending $100 for close out ck, $50 aftermarket grease tool and $14 of grease over the 9+ SRAMs I’d have gone through by now. I purge grease 2x year, same as when I service my fork.

clear2land has a technique to service bb bearings that I’ve never been able to achieve. My single experiment with (the cheapest) wheels bb it lasted 6 months instead of 3, I wasn’t able to get bearing seals out without destroying the rubber edges, the ball bearings were brown nuggets and quality replacement bearings were >$45. I wasn’t going to try it again. I guess I’m an idiot I have never been able to get rebuilt non serviceable bearings back together properly.

Unless you are seeing bb as profit center and are expecting to resell for profit during the dark times ahead… in which case buy 10000…. It’s More sensible to see how long your first bb lasts before you go long In sram bb. Rather than constantly swap cheap bb I’d seriously look at cane creeks new bb, they’ve got one with skf bearings designed to be steam cleaned in abattoir. Cane creek is a solid company and stands behinds their products.

 

[Jayem]

Ok maybe I need to clarify.
I KNOW what makes for a quality cartridge bearing is:

A) materials used/alloys etc that is used to manufacture the races, treatments, coatings, bearings, seals, retainers, etc.
B) the ABEC rating is a way to quantify the bearings quality or lack there of, how round the bearings are
C) Seal material placement and number of seals, along with quality of manufacturing and quality control
D) Quality standards and quality control of the unit as a whole
E) Also the receptacle that the bearing is going into is important also.
F) Almost forgot GREASE quality and possibly zirks to fill with grease and push water out, or a way to get old grease and unwanted stuff out and new grease in.

Load rating?

 

[Hexsense]

Rather than constantly swap cheap bb I’d seriously look at cane creeks new bb, they’ve got one with skf bearings designed to be steam cleaned in abattoir. Cane creek is a solid company and stands behinds their products.

It's PF92 to dub. Canecreek don't offer that, simply because this standard require non industry standard bearing size.
I can count the number of company offer such standard in one hand...
Even less if we only consider the full shell bb and not just a pair of bearing that press directly into the frame (wheelsmfg and enduro is in this case of bearing directly into the frame).

 

[eri]

Ok maybe I need to clarify.
I KNOW what makes for a quality cartridge bearing is:

A) materials used/alloys etc that is used to manufacture the races, treatments, coatings, bearings, seals, retainers, etc.
B) the ABEC rating is a way to quantify the bearings quality or lack there of, how round the bearings are
C) Seal material placement and number of seals, along with quality of manufacturing and quality control
D) Quality standards and quality control of the unit as a whole
E) Also the receptacle that the bearing is going into is important also.
F) Almost forgot GREASE quality and possibly zirks to fill with grease and push water out, or a way to get old grease and unwanted stuff out and new grease in.

You’re totally right. Bearings have been engineered well for more than 100 years, it’s totally figured out. Except bicycle bb are a terrible application for normal high speed ball bearings. The bike bb sucks water in across the seal carrying grit. The water emulsifies the grease and rusts the balls, the grit eats everything. Everything matters but in bike application it’s the seals that matter most.

Not many people build a bike bb that’s designed for its conditions. old shimano un51/71 lasted forever with great seals that were kept inboard, skf made a special bike bb that also lasted forever. Both of these were designed systems and worked really well. Most bb use standard hs bearing with inadequate seal exposed to the elements and they don’t last riding watery trails.

 

[mtnbikerva1]

Load rating?

Good point!
Type of load is and quantity is important.

 

[Jayem]

You’re totally right. Bearings have been engineered well for more than 100 years, it’s totally figured out. Except bicycle bb are a terrible application for normal high speed ball bearings. The bike bb sucks water in across the seal carrying grit. The water emulsifies the grease and rusts the balls, the grit eats everything. Everything matters but in bike application it’s the seals that matter most.

Not many people build a bike bb that’s designed for its conditions. old shimano un51/71 lasted forever with great seals that were kept inboard, skf made a special bike bb that also lasted forever. Both of these were designed systems and worked really well. Most bb use standard hs bearing with inadequate seal exposed to the elements and they don’t last riding watery trails.

Don't forget the shock loads, ramming your pedal/crankarm into a rock.

I'd go through those UN-71 BBs at least once a season, back when we weren't riding as hard or in as challenging conditions. They would develop play and get rough.