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I have read many posts here talking about early model ETSX's that fail and was wondering if anybody out there has an older model that didn't break. I have an '03 model that is still kicking with no problems. With people that did have them break, how did you first notice it? I love my '03 (although i am sure the newer models are more efficient pedal wise, i think i am going to send rear shock to Push to be serviced and Propedal added, any opinions taken or experiences welcomed) and would hate to lose it (although Rocky is good on their warentees).
 

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I've got an early 2004 ETSX-70 model that I purchased in November '03 and (touch wood) so far so good no problems. I added a PUSH'd RP3 to it and a PUSH'd TALAS and it made a huge difference in the way the bike felt, much more plush and yet no bob problems.
 

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Hi,

I noticed mine was starting to crack by simply having a good look around the likely failure points - and found a dark line in hte grey laquer just below the lower suspension mounting point. Had to strip frame anyway to service bearings, and when stripped, I could hold the frame at differnt angles and in the sunlight it looked suspicious. Local shop confirmed that it was start of crack. Note: That other than this line appearing, bike still rode as normal - although obviously crack propogation would have reached a critical point and the tube would have failed - as others have 'experienced.'

I then rang UK distributor, sent them digital pics, and they set about sorting the new frame from RM. Once I had cut off the b/bracket shell from failed frame, they sent me the new one. (I still have the old one, and might turn it into a lamp bracket or table leg or summat....)

Hope that helps.
 

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replace the upper shock pivot

AND use the longest seat post you can find.

Both have been mentioned in other threads. Unfortunately too many are skeptical of what this
achieves. If the upper shock pivot is seized or has a high rate of stiction the initial travel
forces are immediately transfered into the frame, specificaly the seat tube. Eventually
causing frame failure. Get rid of the Fox aluminum reducers and use a true bearing shaft
that has a perfect interference-free fit. BETD offers a perfect solution. It is what I'm using.
However, even these require regular service to keep them 100% stiction free. Simply
remove them and lightly polish the shaft with some emery cloth. You will also be
surprised how this dramaticaly improves suspension performance. I also use a BETD
pivot for the bottom of the shock. This isn't really necessary since this pivot hardly moves.

The longer seat post: this is highly controversial, however it helps minimize one of the forces
that causes seat tube failure. In the absence of a freely moving upper shock pivot there is
both a tension force and a flexing force applied to the seat tube. A long seat post helps
to minimize the flexing force. The only way to minimize the tension force is to have
perfectly freely moving shock pivots.

Note that both of these methods apply to any ETSX model year, particularly the shock pivots.

michael
 

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I rode my 03 ETSX frame hard XC for 3 years, had a great time on it on all sorts of terrain. Though I never hucked it, the frame finally cracked a couple weeks ago where the top-tube is welded to the seat-tube. Rocky said they will take care of me with a new one.
 

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2003 Etx-30

I'm still riding my original ETX frame. I've replaced the frame bushings twice and I also run a long seat post. Additionally, I'm still using the original Rock Shox SID rear. It's also been rebuilt twice but I'm going to replace it soon.

It's a great bike, it's really a shame that the early model frame issues problem scared a lot of folks away.
 

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Earlies etsx

I also have a 03 ETSX model and haven´t had any problems, altough a friend of mine with the same model experienced a crack on his frame and was supplied with a beautiful black ETSX 90 directly from RM
 
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