If you're pushing that bike hard enough that a thru axle actually matters over QR, the rest of it will not hold up all that long. Best to just wait till it's bike upgrade time IMO.
9x100 thru axle?
I have a giant talon 2 with 9x100 QR and im not sure if my rear is 10x135 or 9x135. does anyone know if there are any thru axles or bolt on's to put on it.
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i get that but is there any temporary options such as just a nice strong QR or 9x100 thru axleIf you're pushing that bike hard enough that a thru axle actually matters over QR, the rest of it will not hold up all that long. Best to just wait till it's bike upgrade time IMO.
Not that I'm aware of without replacing the wheels & fork.
You can run a 135x10mm through axle in any 135 QR frame. You'll need a 135x10mm through hub and the axle. It's unlikely your current hub is convertible so you're looking at a new hub and rebuild or shop used. You might score a smoking deal on a 135x10 built rear wheel. As for the fork, you're stuck with QR.
As for your frame being135x10 or 135x9. All 135 frames that use a QR are 135x9 but they will all take a 10mm through axle.
As for your frame being135x10 or 135x9. All 135 frames that use a QR are 135x9 but they will all take a 10mm through axle.
DT Swiss RWS Skewers if you wheels will take it.
Otherwise a Shimano QR skewer generally has the strongest/best clamping interface.
Otherwise a Shimano QR skewer generally has the strongest/best clamping interface.
Thru-BOLTS will work. Not thru-axles. They require different dropouts on the frame.You can run a 135x10mm through axle in any 135 QR frame. You'll need a 135x10mm through hub and the axle. It's unlikely your current hub is convertible so you're looking at a new hub and rebuild or shop used. You might score a smoking deal on a 135x10 built rear wheel. As for the fork, you're stuck with QR.
As for your frame being135x10 or 135x9. All 135 frames that use a QR are 135x9 but they will all take a 10mm through axle.
The axle specification for regular front QR is 9x100, and for rear qr it is 10x135. These use a hollow axle with a 5mm QR. To change to a thru-bolt, you need hubs that can accommodate a 9mm thru bolt for the front and a 10mm thru bolt for the rear. DT Swiss RWS thru bolt is probably the best widely available example of this.
Anyone that says the rear is 9x135 is mislabeling the rear axle spec. Lots of manufacturers do this. Lots of riders do this.
DT makes both RWS 5mm skewers AND 9/10mm RWS thru-bolts. The skewers would be a drop-in improvement but would be a small one. Probably as good as shimano skewers, but different. thru-bolts would be a little bit larger improvement, but probably would require new wheels.DT Swiss RWS Skewers if you wheels will take it.
Otherwise a Shimano QR skewer generally has the strongest/best clamping interface.
You can run a 10mm through axle on any 135mm frame. It was something a lot of riders did before 142. The through axle attaches via a nut rather than threading into the frames dropouts. I still have a 10mm through axle made by Trek that I ran on a few different 135x9 frames before 142 took over. All you need is the axle, and a hub that will accept it.Thru-BOLTS will work. Not thru-axles. They require different dropouts on the frame.
The axle specification for regular front QR is 9x100, and for rear qr it is 10x135. These use a hollow axle with a 5mm QR. To change to a thru-bolt, you need hubs that can accommodate a 9mm thru bolt for the front and a 10mm thru bolt for the rear. DT Swiss RWS thru bolt is probably the best widely available example of this.
Anyone that says the rear is 9x135 is mislabeling the rear axle spec. Lots of manufacturers do this. Lots of riders do this.
that is not a thru-axle. that is a thru-bolt.You can run a 10mm through axle on any 135mm frame. It was something a lot of riders did before 142. The through axle attaches via a nut rather than threading into the frames dropouts. I still have a 10mm through axle made by Trek that I ran on a few different 135x9 frames before 142 took over. All you need is the axle, and a hub that will accept it.
a thru-axle requires closed dropouts on the frame, whereas a thru-bolt can fit into open dropouts.
I see what you're saying but people called them through axles because the 135x10mm hubs were called through axle hubs.that is not a thru-axle. that is a thru-bolt.
a thru-axle requires closed dropouts on the frame, whereas a thru-bolt can fit into open dropouts.
Technically people should have called them through bolts. I guess it depended on who you talked to and how they referred to 10mm axles. I guess the fact that there were other bolt style configurations for 135 many just called bolt on through axles through axles.
The language was sloppy AF then and it is sloppy AF now. on the hub side, the distinction doesn't matter as much (nowadays, the hubs that will fit a thru-bolt are the same ones that fit a thru-axle and a QR, just with different endcaps).I see what you're saying but people called them through axles because the 135x10mm hubs were called through axle hubs.
but on the frame/fork side, the difference is ENORMOUS. Unless your frame has removable/replaceable dropouts, you cannot fit a thru-axle onto a frame with open dropouts. you need a thru-bolt.
@Harold. Yeah it was hardly official as to how the industry and people referred to 135x10. People around me always called them through axles back then. The trek 10mm axle I still have was marketed as a through axle back then. Today it definitely makes more sense to call them bolt on axles rather than through.
OP, good luck finding this configuration as it wasn't super common and only trended for a short period of time before 142 took over. I would say if you can score a killer deal on a used rear wheel and an axle go for it. I wouldn't spend much to go 135x10 though. If you tell us what rear hub you have someone might be able to tell you if it's convertible. If you have the OEM hub I give it a .01 chance it's convertible. It you happened to have a king, i9, or similar from that general era there's a good chance it's convertible, but caps might be tough to source?
OP, good luck finding this configuration as it wasn't super common and only trended for a short period of time before 142 took over. I would say if you can score a killer deal on a used rear wheel and an axle go for it. I wouldn't spend much to go 135x10 though. If you tell us what rear hub you have someone might be able to tell you if it's convertible. If you have the OEM hub I give it a .01 chance it's convertible. It you happened to have a king, i9, or similar from that general era there's a good chance it's convertible, but caps might be tough to source?
RWS skewers are nice and all, but even if he manages to get them or a thru bolt and make it all work, the bulk of the flex in that bike is in the frame pivots. Still a waste of time if you ask me.
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