[toyota200x]

I have an Access hardtail that requires a 80mm fork. At the moment I have a '98 Z1 bomber with 100mm or travel. Can I loosen the bolts on the crown that clamp onto the sanction and clamp lower down on the sanctions so the front end of my bike will act as if the fork had 80mm of travel. Will this harm anything?
If this won't work does anyone recomend or have a good 80mm fork?

Thanks!

 

[.Danno.]

Even if that was possible it's a bad idea because the crown will bottom out on the lowers when you take a big hit. The stanchions could still move 100mm, but you'd have less than 100mm of stanchion showing. Bad combo.

Depending on the internals sometimes you can lower the fork by lenghening the top out spring and shortening the main spring(s).

 

[toyota200x]

Any other thoughts?

Anyone have a 80mm travel fork the want to get rid of ??

 

[skywaybuzz]

80 travel is no fun, run it at 100.

 

[connorsvw]

On the older Z2 I recently overhauled there is a ridge at the top of the crown which prevents the stanchions from moving upwards...and even then the adjustment knobs may strike your downtube when you turn hard.

 

[zarr]

I have an Access hardtail that requires a 80mm fork. At the moment I have a '98 Z1 bomber with 100mm or travel. Can I loosen the bolts on the crown that clamp onto the sanction and clamp lower down on the sanctions so the front end of my bike will act as if the fork had 80mm of travel. Will this harm anything?
If this won't work does anyone recomend or have a good 80mm fork?

Thanks!

Do you know where I could pick up that fork? I have a Z2 that has only 65mm travel.(want more travel).Looks identical to your fork. It's mounted on a 96 GT Karakoram frame I never finished building up.

 

[logbiter]

I have an Access hardtail that requires a 80mm fork. At the moment I have a '98 Z1 bomber with 100mm or travel. Can I loosen the bolts on the crown that clamp onto the sanction and clamp lower down on the sanctions so the front end of my bike will act as if the fork had 80mm of travel. Will this harm anything?
If this won't work does anyone recomend or have a good 80mm fork?

Thanks!

no can do, unless you modify the crown, as connor said. I'd try it at 100mm, see if you like it. If I had a need for 100mm travel I'd trade ya, but I really don't need another Z2 and I've got a 105mm marathon for the 'long travel' bike that I'm happy with.
Otherwise, perhaps try a WTB/trade ad for $2?

 

[logbiter]

Do you know where I could pick up that fork? I have a Z2 that has only 65mm travel.(want more travel).Looks identical to your fork. It's mounted on a 96 GT Karakoram frame I never finished building up.

The 98-99 models were 75 - 80mm travel, depending on which model Z2 (a-bomb=70-75, bam=80). '96 models were 65mm & '97's were 70 or 75, I forget which.
As for finding one, fleabay is yer best bet, they're up there regularly. I haven't been keeping an eye on prices for many months, but a yr or so ago you could grab one for around $75-100 in decent shape.

 

[zarr]

Rigid fork question

Sorry, i entered some info incorrectly.(tried to erase)

 

[LarryG]

You can take the legs off and add 20mm spacers under the topout springs. You probably don't have to cut the main springs; you'll just have a little more preload than usual. I own a few of the old Bombers & saw this tip in one of the overhaul manuals, I forget which one. Marzocchi may even still sell the 20mm spacers. You can call them; they're usually pretty helpful.

 

[toyota200x]

You can take the legs off and add 20mm spacers under the topout springs. You probably don't have to cut the main springs; you'll just have a little more preload than usual. I own a few of the old Bombers & saw this tip in one of the overhaul manuals, I forget which one. Marzocchi may even still sell the 20mm spacers. You can call them; they're usually pretty helpful.

I had rebuilt this fork and added new Enduro Seals so I am just wondering if it is the main larger springs that you add these spacers too. Top or bottom?

I love my Z1 100mm travel fork but when climbing steep singletrack the front end just wants to wheelie and wiggle around. It makes it tuff to climb. Any sugestions?

 

[skywaybuzz]

When I put a 130mm Z1 on a DBR X Link years ago I had that wheelie problem at first up steep climbs, just took short time to get used to it by changing your body position more forward and using different muscles. I have no problems at all when I ride it now.
When you add" 20mm" spacers(never done this,youd have to make them out of metal or plastic or buy something at the hardware store to work and fit,easy enough thou) to existing bottom springs or use longer bottom springs the fork is being restricted how much it extends back up.thus your top springs won't have the same room as before forcing you to push(preload them,stiffer)to screw in the top caps. I've only modded 80mm. Z2 marzocchi forks to get a little more travel, but with old Z1's Marz sold the spring kits for 100(longer bottom springs,shorter top springs) or 130 travel(shorter bottom springs,longer top springs) Hope this helps.

Edit you may have to change your saddle's nose angle back down a bit if you lengthen the front fork.

 

[LarryG]

I had rebuilt this fork and added new Enduro Seals so I am just wondering if it is the main larger springs that you add these spacers too. Top or bottom?

I love my Z1 100mm travel fork but when climbing steep singletrack the front end just wants to wheelie and wiggle around. It makes it tuff to climb. Any sugestions?

The topout springs are short springs on each leg that only get compressed when the fork is sitting without a load on it (#14 in the picture). This is from the 98-2000 Marzocchi manual:

Marzocchi now offers two different travel reduction kits. The first reduction kit will work with any Bomber fork to reduce the travel by ¾". Basically, add one additional top-out spring to each side to make the fork top-out ¾" lower, therefore reducing the travel and overall length of the fork. This will preload the compression spring and add negative travel, creating a better spring rate for the shorter travel. The other kit offered is to reduce a 5" travel fork down to 4". The kit replaces the stock top-out spring with a longer top-out spring to shorten the length of the fork a full inch. Then the compression spring is replaced with a shorter spring made specifically for 4" of travel.