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This is the dropout on the 69er frame I am going to get soon, and want to convert it to belt drive. What do you guys think would be the best way to make it belt drive compatible? I have a few ideas, but just want to know what the professionals think ; )
 

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I'm getting a loud popping noise from the belt riding up the rear cog and snapping down in place upon hard use. Like going up hill or sprinting. The frame is flexing. So unless your sure the frame in question is strong enough don't. I'm working on a solution. One that some people might not want to try, I have to do more testing, and waiting on some stuff.

Tim
 

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Better to start from scratch.

An aluminum frame is going to be a PITA to modify so that you can pass the belt - and I'd bet dollars to donuts that you'll have front sprocket/chainstay interference problems as well.

If you already have the belt bits, try installing the crank/sprocket and see if everything clears. If so, you might be able to find someone to add a coupling of some kind to the seatstay and heat treat the frame, but you're going to be spending some serious $.

I would just get a custom or off-the-shelf frame that will already accept a belt, honestly. This mod is a LOT more work than it might seem.

-Walt
 

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Walt said:
An aluminum frame is going to be a PITA to modify so that you can pass the belt - and I'd bet dollars to donuts that you'll have front sprocket/chainstay interference problems as well.

If you already have the belt bits, try installing the crank/sprocket and see if everything clears. If so, you might be able to find someone to add a coupling of some kind to the seatstay and heat treat the frame, but you're going to be spending some serious $.

I would just get a custom or off-the-shelf frame that will already accept a belt, honestly. This mod is a LOT more work than it might seem.

-Walt
Totally agree with this sentiment!
 

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Yea, I'd second the other issues Walt et al brought up. However, I think this frame could be made belt drive compatible with only a mechanical coupler built into the drop out. I'd split the drop out between the two fasteners for the slider, then make an external plate that is held in place with said fasteners. Best would be to have it lock into the cavity that is cast into the dropout, but it would require machine work and prob. isn't necessary.

Bottom line, prob more trouble than it's worth, especially when you look at the time invested vs. benefit.
 

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Linnaeus said:
However, I think this frame could be made belt drive compatible with only a mechanical coupler built into the drop out. I'd split the drop out between the two fasteners for the slider, then make an external plate that is held in place with said fasteners. Best would be to have it lock into the cavity that is cast into the dropout, but it would require machine work and prob. isn't necessary.
Wouldn't the slider hold the dropout together if you split it? Especially if it is keyed into the dropout slots?
 

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Yes in theory it would, but an external support plate wouldn't weigh much, is easy to fabricate, and would be extra insurance. Whether or not a keyed drop out would add functional support would depend on how you decide to split the drop out. You've got to overbuild unless you are willing to break a lot of frames to find out what is the practical minimum.
 
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