[dipper]

I know there's at least a couple of you Knolly lads running 2010 66 RC3 Ti's and i seem to remember there being some talk about a showdown with the totem. did it ever happen?

I'm currently running 2009 66 RC3's and am either going to go for the new RC3 Ti or possibly the 2010 totem but having never spent much time on a totem I'd like to hear from those who have used both.

be interesting also to hear from anyone thats ridden the older 66 and the new one. is there much difference other than the weight?

by the way, in case it's not common knowledge just yet I heard from an official Fox source that there will be a 180mm 36 this year. woo hoo!:thumbsup:

ta

 

[Dominator13]

Not sure about this!?

Dip-
I have no knowledge of anyone that has tried the 2010 Totem. I don't think they are out yet?
The 66Ti is a lot plusher in the beginning of the stroke than the previous Totem. People have removed the flood gate and this improves this. The rest of the stroke on the 66 is incredible. Very progressive and I have rarely used all of it.

As far as FOX goes, they should finish and put out the 170mm 36 that they've been working on before they put out a 180mm!?

 

[craigstr]

2010 66 RC3 Ti

I had an 08 66 RC3 that was junk. It developed bushing play and the dreaded crown creak all in the first two weeks of riding. The 2010 model has none of that and is much plusher in the initial 2 inches of travel, it has great mid stroke feel and then the last inch of travel feels bottomless, I have bottomed mine repeatedly and I couldnt even tell when it happened. The 2010 doesnt have the top out clunk that the 08 had and the new 20mm axle is a big improvement over the 08/09 version. In regards to a 180mm 36, I would think they would need to go to 38mm stanchions otherwise they might loose some stiffness in the fork. Fox needs a 180mm fork in their line.

 

[jsoates]

Yes, we need someone to try the 2010 Totem with the downhill spec. I'm considering it but won't be able to try it till spring 2010. My 08 66 ATA is up for sale after coming back from Marz Canada, with all new parts.

 

[dipper]

My current 66 RC3 has been spot on(mind you it's not that old!). I like the sound of the bottomless feeling of the new one as mine bottoms out fairly easily with a solid clunk that can overwhelm the tyre. I'm @ 210lb and on the standard spring. I believe a heavier Ti spring is an option from new on the 2010 model?

the fox lad i spoke to said it was a 180mm 36 probably due mid 2010. wether they go up to a 38mm chassis or not I've no idea but it would make sense. however i also reckon the 36 chassis could handle 180mm. look at the 150mm 32's. they seem to be managing ok.

 

[knollybikes.com]

Hi dipper!

Personally, i just switched from a 2009 RC3 to a 2010 66 TI the previous week and took the new fork out for some test rides this past weekend.

Right off the bat, the 2010 is a noticeably better fork than the 2009 model, for many reasons: some performance based and some for other reasons.

Firstly, cosmetically, the fork simply looks better . As craigstr mentioned, the new 20mm QR axle is WAY better than the previous design and perhaps reason to switch right there!

Also, as he said, no play, no slop, no creaks, pings, weird noises at all - it simply works.

Weight has been reduced in the 2010 model: I measured a fairly substantial approx. 0.8 pound difference between the 2009 and in 2010 forks.

With my 2009 fork, I occasionally had problems with bottoming it out; I haven't had any feeling like that on the new fork (even though I'm just starting to ride it). However, I'm pretty confident that I won't have the issues that the 2009 had this way.

Damping quality is excellent: smooth, progressive and very easily tunable. You also don't need a lot of air pressure in this fork: I'm using a standard size air shock pump and I'm not using anymore than maybe 8 "pumps" from the shock (at 210 pounds). The air spring affect is very noticeable and quite easy to tune.

The only thing that I would say is to ensure that you loctite your low speed compression adjuster knob set screws when the fork is new.

We want to see Marzocchi kill it this year and I think these new RC3 Ti forks could do the trick in the FR world. The new 888 Ti might just be the best FR dual crown fork ever made. While the 2010 Boxxers are excellent performance wise, they are definitely race oriented forks. The new 888 features a wider turning radius compared to the Boxxer and perhaps a more "fun, playful" feeling. The Boxxer perhaps feels a bit more "planted" at really high speeds but a bit numb compared to the 888. Anyway, both are great forks, but have different strengths and weaknesses.

So, perhaps not a direct comparison, but the new 2010 66 Ti looks really promising. Of course, like any new product, we'll all have a better idea of the fork's capabilities after it has spent some time on the market, but overall we are very stoked with the new RC3 Ti versions of some of Marzocchi favourite forks.

Cheers!

 

[dipper]

cheers Noel. thats exactly the kind of feedback i was hoping for. I've been mostly riding fox stuff the last few years(and the odd 66) but I've always had a soft spot for Marzocchi so I'm also hoping they come good this year.

I've got a 55 Ti sat here alongside the new lyrik 170 DH and I have to say the lyric looks the better quality(having never ridden either) and is a fraction lighter. I see marzocchi still have them nasty decals.

I guess the visual comparison between the totem and 66 will be much the same. On saying that, if performance of the 2 are similar then I'll still be going marzocchi I reckon(despite the fact that the white totems will suit my color scheme better!) as like I said, I've a soft spot for them

 

[Dirty D]

I couldn't believe how smooth, and supple the travel was in the beggining sroke of travel, the first ride down the trail - not even broken in yet.

After spending nearly two years on an 08 66RC3, I just learned to deal with it's flaws, like the slop in the bushings, and the creaky like a rocking chair sounds from the crown. I stil loved the ease of servicability, seals that never gave me issues, and the reliabilty of the open-bath design.

If the 2010 doesn't suffer from the same flaws in the long run, like the 08/09 this fork will be a winner. So far the new fork has been solid.

As mentioned above, the new axle design is nothing short of slick.

D

 

[craigstr]

I have a good feeling about durability

I got mine in early October and beat the crap out of it for about 7 weeks before the snow fell. Dominator 13 got his about the same time and is still riding it hard, last I spoke with him it was as tight as a drum. My 08 showed all its flaws in the first two weeks. I think they have a winner. There is something about the plushness of this fork that just makes me gleam with confidence. I dont get into the technical geometry stuff as much as I should but I think the A2C on the 66 puts the DT HA in a sweet spot. Somebody needs to compare the DT witha 36, Totem, & 66 and see what the HA is.

 

[Dude!]

I am going for the Marz 66 RC3 Ti!

I rode Dom's bike this week - it was amazing. The front fork gobbles up the trail, but you can still pop the bike when you need it. It made my DT with PUSHed Talas feel like a hardtail. Ignoring potential biases in cockpit setup - it rode very well - steep climbs, log hops, it made big drops feel like...ummm....nothing. The only downside is that is suffered a bit in the tight twist medium pace singletrack - this is geometry related.

Craigstr - my headtube angle with the DT in the middle setting with Talas and 2.4 tires is 66.5 deg.

I am going to use Cane Creek Zerostack Reducer (1.5 to 1.125) Headset, which will reduce the relative A2C of the Marz 66 by 10mm (as oppose to the full 20mm), owing to the short lower stack. This will modify the geometry by 0.5 deg (as oppose to 1 deg). Theoretically, I should be able to obtain a similar angle to my current set-up by using the upper DT setting, the only downfall it potentially too high of bottom bracket. I will have to tinker with this. However my calculations suggest this would be the same bottom bracket height using a regular headset in the middle setting - so this is a wash. In the end, the zerostack allows the DT to be 0.5 degree steeper while maintaing a lower bottom and I can now use a plethora of stems :thumbsup: . The 1.5 stem selection stinks.

I will take pictures and measurements when it arrives - I am also getting a CCDB - woohoo!

BTW - I do not want to ride Dom's bike anymore - First ride - I ended up with a Knolly DT, Second ride - Marz 66 and CCDB:thumbsup: ! Note to self - no more riding Dom's bike, no more riding Dom's bike...

Jamie

 

[knollybikes.com]

I rode Dom's bike this week - it was amazing. The front fork gobbles up the trail, but you can still pop the bike when you need it. It made my DT with PUSHed Talas feel like a hardtail. Ignoring potential biases in cockpit setup - it rode very well - steep climbs, log hops, it made big drops feel like...ummm....nothing. The only downside is that is suffered a bit in the tight twist medium pace singletrack - this is geometry related.

Craigstr - my headtube angle with the DT in the middle setting with Talas and 2.4 tires is 66.5 deg.

I am going to use Cane Creek Zerostack Reducer (1.5 to 1.125) Headset, which will reduce the relative A2C of the Marz 66 by 10mm (as oppose to the full 20mm), owing to the short lower stack. This will modify the geometry by 0.5 deg (as oppose to 1 deg). Theoretically, I should be able to obtain a similar angle to my current set-up by using the upper DT setting, the only downfall it potentially too high of bottom bracket. I will have to tinker with this. However my calculations suggest this would be the same bottom bracket height using a regular headset in the middle setting - so this is a wash. In the end, the zerostack allows the DT to be 0.5 degree steeper while maintaing a lower bottom and I can now use a plethora of stems :thumbsup: . The 1.5 stem selection stinks.

I will take pictures and measurements when it arrives - I am also getting a CCDB - woohoo!

BTW - I do not want to ride Dom's bike anymore - First ride - I ended up with a Knolly DT, Second ride - Marz 66 and CCDB:thumbsup: ! Note to self - no more riding Dom's bike, no more riding Dom's bike...

Jamie

Hey Dude!

Awesome - glad you figured out what you want to do upgrade wise! However, one thing: you may run into issues if you get a 1.125" steerer 66Ti and also get a lower zero stack headset: there is a good chance that the fork crown will hit the down tube. You should order the headset with a conventional lower cup: the Cane Creek 1.5-->1.125 headset (not the zero stack one) has a zero stack upper cup and a regular lower cup. This will keep your stack height reasonably low (and about 10mm lower than if you go with a 1.5" steerer which would require a conventional upper cup) and avoid any chance of the fork crown / down tube interference).

Cheers,

 

[Dude!]

D'oh!

Thanks for the heads up!

It is still okay that my original idea will pan out as planned. I have played with the AM personality of the DT...I now need to explore DT's other personality....

Thanks again for all of your assistance with shock discussion:thumbsup:

Cheers,
Jamie

 

[craigstr]

Isnt it all the anodized parts?

I rode Dom's bike this week - it was amazing. The front fork gobbles up the trail, but you can still pop the bike when you need it. It made my DT with PUSHed Talas feel like a hardtail. Ignoring potential biases in cockpit setup - it rode very well - steep climbs, log hops, it made big drops feel like...ummm....

That makes Dom's bike ride so good? Isnt Mango faster?

 

[craigstr]

Blah...Blah...Blah....

I am going to use Cane Creek Zerostack Reducer (1.5 to 1.125) Headset, which will reduce the relative A2C of the Marz 66 by 10mm (as oppose to the full 20mm), owing to the short lower stack. This will modify the geometry by 0.5 deg (as oppose to 1 deg). Theoretically, I should be able to obtain a similar angle to my current set-up by using the upper DT setting, the only downfall it potentially too high of bottom bracket. I will have to tinker with this. However my calculations suggest this would be the same bottom bracket height using a regular headset in the middle setting - so this is a wash. In the end, the zerostack allows the DT to be 0.5 degree steeper while maintaing a lower bottom and I can now use a plethora of stems :thumbsup: . The 1.5 stem selection stinks.

I will take pictures and measurements when it arrives - I am also getting a CCDB - woohoo!

BTW - I do not want to ride Dom's bike anymore - First ride - I ended up with a Knolly DT, Second ride - Marz 66 and CCDB:thumbsup: ! Note to self - no more riding Dom's bike, no more riding Dom's bike...

Jamie

That is what I read...just say "now it will rip!"
You can ride Dom's bike now, you are running out of things to have to buy! Everytime I let somebody ride my DT, they come back in awe.

 

[Dude!]

Dom's bike could be faster.....

I noticed a hint of resistance owing to the bright red saddle knob....what an eye sore

That makes Dom's bike ride so good? Isnt Mango faster?[/QUOTE]

 

[craigstr]

Mango is faster!

It was proven that it has something like 7 times less drag then any other color, except black and white.

 

[OldschoolBMXer]

Moving from a Fox 36 Talas

I just put the fork on and have 4 rides on it (there abouts). Like Dirty said, first ride impression was impressive and it seems like there was no obvious weirdness moving from a 160 - 180 fork. That's more of a testament to the bike geo's than anything. But I've gone from a '09 Fox 36 air to a '10 Fox 36 coil and didn't like how the coil felt so I was really hesitant with the 66.

At first the fork is just smooth and felt a little soft but playing with the preload and low speed dials for a couple runs, I eventually put it back to almost factory settings. 2 clicks up on the LS and 2 clicks up on the preload after I felt the spring tighten (maybe 4 clicks up total). At 165# geared up, this setting works really well for me.

I definitely appreciate that extra travel for jumping but more importantly, the fork has really improved how the bike feels. Small bumps, ruts just sucks it up. I still need to get it in some rocks but it's reasonable to assume it'll be outstanding there as well. The bonus is, it looks badass on the black bike.

There's a couple riders I know who just put Totem airs on their bikes. And the thing I was skeptical about were the stock seals -- first ride, they leaked. It's so bad, one of them carries a towel around to wipe it off at each stop. There's after market seals that are offered that work better but just seems silly that the company would put out an otherwise good working product with a few crappy rubber seals. I think if you can work around this, they seem to be another good option.

 

[8664]

Damping quality is excellent: smooth, progressive and very easily tunable. You also don't need a lot of air pressure in this fork: I'm using a standard size air shock pump and I'm not using anymore than maybe 8 "pumps" from the shock (at 210 pounds). The air spring affect is very noticeable and quite easy to tune.

The only thing that I would say is to ensure that you loctite your low speed compression adjuster knob set screws when the fork is new.

Cheers!

thanks, i am 210lb and pump it up the 66rc3 ti positiv air chamber with 8 pumps,
works great now!!

 

[knollybikes.com]

thanks, i am 210lb and pump it up the 66rc3 ti positiv air chamber with 8 pumps,
works great now!!

Cool - glad that you're stoked!

I'm going to start fooling around a bit with this fork: I think a slightly increased oil volume and a slightly lower starting pressure could be really good. We'll see when I have the time to do this though!

Cheers!