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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Righto,

Some of you may have seen my previous post about changing the head angle of my 6.6. I've had a few pm's about the spacers I had made up and I finally got round to taking pics and taking measurements. So here you go....

The total change to bottom bracket height amounts to just 7mm. While that is not a lot, it translates to a far far better handling bike. The change to the head angle is something I don't know how to measure but I can tell you this: the bike feels the way all you 6.6 owners wish it did. It is NOT as slack as a Slopestyle (I have an SS to compare it to) and remains an AM bike. However, it rails turns better and feels way better at speed. Small change - big result.

In my origional post I said I "may" be prepared to have some of these made up if there is enough interest. I probably can't be bothered but if I was overwhelmed with request I may.

Here are the pics which show you the spacers which essentially reduce the relative length of the shock.
 

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So i doesnt affect

So it does not effect the climbing usually slacked out bikes cant climb that great. The intended purpose is all mountain it would have come from the factory that way being they test the heck out of the prototypes and determine what geo and angles work the best for the intended application. That said it would be interesting to see how the mod would perform because I do use my bike (6.6) a lot for downhill terrain and a slightly slacked bike would be better considering the BB is pretty high. It would be interesting to check it out.What is the $$
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Downhilldoug said:
So it does not effect the climbing usually slacked out bikes cant climb that great. The intended purpose is all mountain it would have come from the factory that way being they test the heck out of the prototypes and determine what geo and angles work the best for the intended application. That said it would be interesting to see how the mod would perform because I do use my bike (6.6) a lot for downhill terrain and a slightly slacked bike would be better considering the BB is pretty high. It would be interesting to check it out.What is the $$
I always found that the 6.6 wanders a bit on climbs. With the HA slacker it is no worse. I do use the travel reduction function of my Talas forks on steep climbs.

What is interesting is that now, with the HA a little slacker, I ride my Talas in the 140mm setting on most flowing trails opting for 160mm only when the going gets fast/steep/gnarly. With the slacker HA and the shorter fork, it is awesome in tight single track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The cost:

Chaps,
When I had them made, they cost me $88 Australian ($60USD). However this was a one off job and hence more expensive. A run of 10 or 20 will bring the cost down by as much as 40-50%. I won't do this for the money, but if there is not enough interest I don't think I'll do it at all. If I get 10+ orders I'll look into it and do it on the basis of charging cost + postage + 10 bucks for my effort. That means they'll cost you (assuming the cost comes down on a run of 10+) about $40 - $455USD I am guessing.

Alternatively, find yourself a little engineering company who is happy to do small jobs, take them your spacers and have some made up yourself - it's not hard.
 

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I think what buildyourown is refering to is a pin/axle solution (w/ bushing and spacers) as it comes on CCDBs just that the drilling in the axle is off-center. Might even be a little easier (and cheaper) in production. TF-tuned (http://www.tftunedshox.com/mount-kits/mount-kits-and-bushings.html) might make some custom for us. I'll ask since I'm interested in this issue myself and let you all know.
 

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Zuzi beat me to the link.
The alum ones are notorious for wearing prematurely. Instead of the bushing wearing as they are designed to do. Replacing with a one peice steel shaft fixes this.
Might not be a big deal normally but if you are paying a premium for custom ones, might as well make them as durable as possible.
And yes, as a Machinist, they would be cheaper and easier to make.
 

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... talked to Tim F. today

... sorry, no custom mounting kit available with off-center bolt holes. This is because he has them made over seas and lead time for shipping is 3-4 months and production is not really flexible over there. He recommended to try my luck at "betd" (UK company). I will also try at "Brunn" (german company) who make custom bike parts and prototypes. However bushings and spacers could be ordered from TF.
 

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Betd will make em!

Received a quote from Betd. They will sell you a pair with steel axles, bushings, spacers and rubber seals for 47,- Pounds Sterling. This includes shipping to Austria, so I guess it will be the same for other EU countries.

If you're interested ask for Dan - he's into this topic now. And tell him I send you ;)
 

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This is actually really interesting, but what about tire clearance? Are you sure that the tire won't hit the seat tube at bottom-out?

The sag "concept" of the VPP is probably also a little bit off with the custom made reducer, but that doesn't necessarily make the bike perform bad in real life.

Another option could be to run a 7.5x2.0" rear shock instead of the 7.875x2.25" that's original, but that would put the sag even more off. But I guess tire clearance wouldn't be an issue (not implying that it is an issue with the custom reducers).

Anyway, I hope these turns out to be working with no problems, since it could turn the 6.6 into an even better bike.

Are the BETD reducers the "Strong bushes" as the seen in this link http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/items.asp?CategoryID=92&Name=Strong+Bushes?
 

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@dbug ... what did you tell them (Betd) regarding the off-set. A certain amount (I was thinking of 2.5 mm off center) or did you leave it up to them to off-set as much as they possibly can?

@evensen ... if you used a 7.5 x 2.0" shock you'll loose .75" (ca. 20 mm) in travel - not for me anyway. And yes, they should use their standard strong bushes.
 
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