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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking for a coil spring shock for a 04 FSR-xc. It has a 6.0X1.25 float r on it now, but I'm having to run 250psi in it to get any sort of decent sag -- but then I'm not able to bottom it out (and it rides fairly harsh). If I lower the air pressure to the point I occasionally bottom it out I end up using half of the travel just sitting on it.

So I'm looking for a coil shock in the 6X1.25 stock size... I'd prefer one with a lockout to. Also, what spring rate should I go with?
 

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SPDu4ea said:
I'm looking for a coil spring shock for a 04 FSR-xc. It has a 6.0X1.25 float r on it now, but I'm having to run 250psi in it to get any sort of decent sag -- but then I'm not able to bottom it out (and it rides fairly harsh). If I lower the air pressure to the point I occasionally bottom it out I end up using half of the travel just sitting on it.

So I'm looking for a coil shock in the 6X1.25 stock size... I'd prefer one with a lockout to. Also, what spring rate should I go with?
If you're that heavy, I wouldn't feel too comfortable locking out the shock. If you're lucky it might only bend the shock bolt.

Going to a platform (propedal/SPV etc) shock does help, since it rides higher at lower pressures, but selection is limited for this size.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would only lockout the shock for fireroad climbs as any platform shock is going to be woefully underpowered for my needs. My stock float r has a "propedal" sticker on it (and isn't horrible for bob, but it's there). Having my shock PUSHed would probably help stiffen the platform, but it would do nothing for the underlying problem: a progressive air spring ramping up in spring rate so quickly as to remove 30% of my 3.5" of travel...

I'm thinking my best bet would be to just put a 6.5x1.5 coil shock in my frame. The frame looks like it has enough room to handle it, and I can just pick a spring rate that will sag ~.5" instead of .3" to bring the bike within the stock geometry range... Does anyone see any problems in doing this?
 

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SPDu4ea said:
I would only lockout the shock for fireroad climbs as any platform shock is going to be woefully underpowered for my needs. My stock float r has a "propedal" sticker on it (and isn't horrible for bob, but it's there). Having my shock PUSHed would probably help stiffen the platform, but it would do nothing for the underlying problem: a progressive air spring ramping up in spring rate so quickly as to remove 30% of my 3.5" of travel...

I'm thinking my best bet would be to just put a 6.5x1.5 coil shock in my frame. The frame looks like it has enough room to handle it, and I can just pick a spring rate that will sag ~.5" instead of .3" to bring the bike within the stock geometry range... Does anyone see any problems in doing this?
At least that is a common size coil shock, just be sure you check frame clearance around the spring, and cycle the suspension with the spring out so you know it won't bind or contact anywhere. You'll have to experiment with spring rate to find how much/little sag will work. Unless you run a lot of sag, the back end could be 1+" higher than stock, so you will need a taller fork to match.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, I went ahead and got a used 6.5X1.5 vanilla off ebay. The coil spring takes up a lot more room than the air shock -- so much so, that the shock hits the horst link if I try to place it in the 90mm setting. However, it fits just fine in the 75mm hole. Since the stock 1.25" stroke on the 75mm setting yeilds a 2.36 motion ratio, the new 1.5" stroke shock actually gives 90mm of travel on the low-travel setting -- so at least I didnt loose any travel.

BUT, this wasn't without side effects; the increase in overall shock length from 6 to 6.5" raised the bike noticably. If I calculate using that same motion ratio, that extra 1/2" in shock length makes the bike sit 1.18" higher. However, that's assuming the bike was on the 75mm setting before. The stock shock on the 90mm setting made the bike sit about 1/2" higher than on the 75mm setting, so in reality the rear now sits only 1/2" higher than before.


That should make a noticable change to the bike's geometry (probably for the worse). But it should also raise the pedal off the ground more, and I've bashed this set of pedals more than any other bike I've owned (so it might not be a totally bad thing). I can't wait to get a few rides under my belt to see if it is worth it...
 

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Stratos Helix series come in 6.0x1.5 lengths/stroke shocks. Air/Oil/Coil and a fairly nice working shock with lockout as well (true lockout as the shock doesnt move at all)

Going to the 6.5 length shock shouldnt really be much a problem aside from maybe feeling more forward and quicker steering which you may like once you get used to it. Unless you go with a longer travel front fork to help make the steering feel like before. The higher bb is a major plus IMO but that may go too high with a longer travel front fork.
 

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Yes, you might want a taller fork with the 6.5" rear shock. 100mm is ok for flat singletrack and climbs, but downhill it gets sketchy. An adjustable travel 5" fork works really well. With a 6.5" shock and 130mm fork my BB is ~13.5".

The higher BB is great for pedaling sidehills, rocks etc, but standover is higher.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'd like to get a new fork anyway as the 28mm stanchions are like wet noodles when crawling down steep technical sections... And that helix stratos looks awesome. My only reservation comes from the fact that I've now "upgraded" a ~ 3-year old 3.5" travel deore-level bike to the bad side of 30lbs -- so I don't know whether its worth it to put more money in or simply save up and buy a newer 4X4 or 5x5 xc/trail bike...
 

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Yeah a newer more efficient FS design would prob be a better bet. I remember my friend with a GF Joshua and when he pedaled hard the bike would suck up his energy Just looking at the shock showed that as it compressed alot. I dont think I ever seen another design do that much to a shock when pedaling. But sure was plush when not pedaling hard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah, trek Y bikes (including the GF joshua) were horrible pedalers...

As far as my new geometry -- I went for a longer ride today with some steep decents and it is very noticable. I'm definitely over my hands a lot more now and it's a little less comfortable. A longer-travel shock should make it nicer when riding, but I'm already out of stand-over clearance.
 

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SPDu4ea said:
I'd like to get a new fork anyway as the 28mm stanchions are like wet noodles when crawling down steep technical sections... And that helix stratos looks awesome. My only reservation comes from the fact that I've now "upgraded" a ~ 3-year old 3.5" travel deore-level bike to the bad side of 30lbs -- so I don't know whether its worth it to put more money in or simply save up and buy a newer 4X4 or 5x5 xc/trail bike...
A fork can always be moved to another frame/bike, or sold, so it's not a totally lost investment. I'm finding my '01 is working great after upgrading the shock and fork. My main complaint is that I've changed the suspension bearings more than once, so it creaks and has some play, even with fresh bearings.

If you want a coil fork to match the rear shock, some you might look for deals on:

Rock Shox - Revelation U-turn (32mm stanchions so should be nice and stiff)
Marathon XC - ETA for climbing
Minute 1:00 - 100-130mm adjustable (and these can be found under $300)
Vanilla (can change the internal spacers but travel isn't adjustable on the fly)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
fsrxc said:
A fork can always be moved to another frame/bike, or sold, so it's not a totally lost investment.
Good point. After looking at whats available in new bikes, 30-31lbs isn't that bad either considering it's been beefed up a bit...

Went for another ride today on some different terrain. This thing climbs like a billy goat now -- I barely have to lean forward to prevent the front wheel from popping in the air. But I definitely do not feel as comfortable flying downhill and I had a minor ass-pucker moment when I went slowly down a ~12" drop-off (one tire at a time rather than sailing off it). I ended up on the verge of endoing -- riding only on the front wheel trying to use light braking to slow down, without so much brake as to push me over the bars...
 

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SPDu4ea said:
Good point. After looking at whats available in new bikes, 30-31lbs isn't that bad either considering it's been beefed up a bit...

Went for another ride today on some different terrain. This thing climbs like a billy goat now -- I barely have to lean forward to prevent the front wheel from popping in the air. But I definitely do not feel as comfortable flying downhill and I had a minor ass-pucker moment when I went slowly down a ~12" drop-off (one tire at a time rather than sailing off it). I ended up on the verge of endoing -- riding only on the front wheel trying to use light braking to slow down, without so much brake as to push me over the bars...
That's why I really like adjustable travel.

Here's a couple of examples:
Minute 1 coil fork with "wind down" travel adjust:
http://www.greenfishsports.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=921
Black air fork with IT:
http://www.greenfishsports.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=874
Jenson, Cambria, Price Point all have deals on '05 forks right now too. (not to mention ebay if you know what you're looking for)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
fsrxc said:
That's why I really like adjustable travel.

Here's a couple of examples:
Minute 1 coil fork with "wind down" travel adjust:
http://www.greenfishsports.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=921
Black air fork with IT:
http://www.greenfishsports.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=874
Jenson, Cambria, Price Point all have deals on '05 forks right now too. (not to mention ebay if you know what you're looking for)
Heh, got sniped on ebay today on a manitou black 120... Reviews seem 50/50 so I'm not sure I want to go out of my way to get one though...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
As a follow-up, I broke my lower shock bolt (clean snap at the threads). I had bent that bolt before (and replaced it) when on the air shock, and it was just barely bent when I installed the coil shock. I'll try one more of these specialized bolts, but if it bends or breaks again I think I'll have to drill and tap the holes to accept a thicker bolt...
 

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SPDu4ea said:
As a follow-up, I broke my lower shock bolt (clean snap at the threads). I had bent that bolt before (and replaced it) when on the air shock, and it was just barely bent when I installed the coil shock. I'll try one more of these specialized bolts, but if it bends or breaks again I think I'll have to drill and tap the holes to accept a thicker bolt...
You might check BETD's website, I think they sell a stronger shock bushing/bolt kit (but shipping from the UK will take a while...)
 

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Theres some places that specialize in bolts and such and you might want to try there at getting a higher grade of bolt, I forget the grade you would want but it would generally be the highest you can get for that size.

If you drill out the frame to fit a larger bolt then the spacers on the shock would need to be drilled/exchanged out as well so they would fit the larger bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I ended up getting a replacement bolt at ACE. It was 5mm longer, but the unthreaded section was the same length (so the only difference is that 5mm of bolt sticks out the other side). It's not perfect, but we'll see if its stronger.

I also pre-loaded the coil enough to clear the horst link when on the long-travel setting. I figure if I'm going to test the bolt, I might as well go all-out. So far I'm loving the 108mm of travel (but I've just gone up/down the curb outside). I'll give it a thorough thrashing tomorrow.
 
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