How about lowering your stem?! I went from 90 to 60mm, and lowered it a bit. Still confident on the descents, more traction on the climbs.
575 Front End Wander
Heyall, I just recently picked up a 575, it'd built up with a 150mm fork, and I love the bike, but have noticed that climbing, the front end does tend to get light, and want to wander making it a bit tricky on a few climbs. I did add a little more air to the rear, which I felt helped keep the front end down, but I was barely at the low end of the recommended sag.
I am coming off a 4" CC bike, so clearly I know it will not be quite as easy to climb. Just wondering what others' thoughts are on this, and if it happened. I love the bike most of the time, but I do sometimes get a little down when the bars are moving back and forth, and I'm hunched down like a madman trying to keep it down.
Also, I assume I could run a longer stem, but I like my current geometry with a 90mm stem. Would love to go to 70mm, but I am afraid that might make it worse.
Thoughts or suggestions?
I am coming off a 4" CC bike, so clearly I know it will not be quite as easy to climb. Just wondering what others' thoughts are on this, and if it happened. I love the bike most of the time, but I do sometimes get a little down when the bars are moving back and forth, and I'm hunched down like a madman trying to keep it down.
Also, I assume I could run a longer stem, but I like my current geometry with a 90mm stem. Would love to go to 70mm, but I am afraid that might make it worse.
Thoughts or suggestions?
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
buy a Lyrk U-turn....
Turn 'er down for the ups and open 'er up to 160mm for the descents. Best fork IMHO for the '08-current 575:thumbsup: Other than that, put that tip of the saddle where the sun doesn't shine, as that's the only way to keep that front end down on super steep climbs.:eekster:
Turn 'er down for the ups and open 'er up to 160mm for the descents. Best fork IMHO for the '08-current 575:thumbsup: Other than that, put that tip of the saddle where the sun doesn't shine, as that's the only way to keep that front end down on super steep climbs.:eekster:
In my experience I think its the rear suspension that contributes to this on the 575. Lots of time it will go to deep in its travel and the front end will get light.
Tinshield what do you mean it will go too deep in it's travel. And yeah, I've thought about getting a Talas for it, but then again, I just bought a new bike, hard to justify spending more money on the thing. I think that's what gets me down a little, I just want to like it the way it is, makes you wonder maybe there was another one out there. I didn't demo it, just bought it based on stellar reviews, and have ridden and loved the Blur which often times people say is equally as good. I do notice if I keep the rear end a little stiff, it does tend to climb like a beast, and it also looks like I am getting the full travel...
When the rear suspension compresses the front end will become lighter as weight is transferred rearward. The bike has a lot of travel so there's a lot of variations as it compresses. Have you tried running more propedal?
I have the same issue. I've heard 2 suggestions for fixes:
1. longer stem puts more body weight over the front
2. shorter stem produces less leverage when pulling on the bars
I'm going to bum a couple loner stems from the LBS, and try them out on a trail that my front end always wanders on.
1. longer stem puts more body weight over the front
2. shorter stem produces less leverage when pulling on the bars
I'm going to bum a couple loner stems from the LBS, and try them out on a trail that my front end always wanders on.
Straight or setback seatpost? Handlebar width?
Thanks for the replies. Currently I am running the propedal most of the time on 3, I have a straight stem, with 27" bars.
Keep the suggestions coming!
Keep the suggestions coming!
My 575 seems to climb the best when I stay
seated and sit on the nose of the saddle. Then
if I need to I will lean over the bars. As for air in
the rear shock I run my weight with my gear on.
Best, John
seated and sit on the nose of the saddle. Then
if I need to I will lean over the bars. As for air in
the rear shock I run my weight with my gear on.
Best, John
My wandering problem was from the stem. When I built my 575 I had no idea what to put on for a stem, most bikes I looked at with the similar geometry/travel showed 90mm stems. I had 90mm for a couple months and felt like I was all over the place, there was no such thing as a slight jerk to get you back on track. I tried a friend’s 105mm and instantly felt better, more controlled, yet rediscovered a feeling I never felt so far with the 575…OTB, 2x within a week (very impressed with Yeti paint). I guess the 90mm made me lazy as far as getting my weight back when needed. I settled on a 100mm, but before I try it I tried the 90mm again last night, I had lots of wandering and over exaggerated turns. I’ll be trying the 100mm tonight.
I couldn't imagine a 70 or 60.
I couldn't imagine a 70 or 60.
Throw away that Long Stem. It is dead. If you need longer stem to get more weight up front on a 575, you either have a too small frame or you need to work on your technique... Never been happier than when I went for a 60mm stem a bit lower than the 90mm (which is as long as a stem can get before it turns into a Long Stem (R.I.P.)
Traditionally the 575 came with a 10 degree rise stem and a 2" rise bar. I prefer a 0 degree rise stem and something near a 1" rise bar. It makes a big difference in climbing. First I'd move to a 1" rise bar. Then desided what length stem would work with a 0 rise.
Still appreciating the feedback;
I hear you guys about adjusting stem and bar combinations, but all in all, it seems like with those options, you are really only adjusting hand position. Understandably it does make a bit of a difference, I guess I'm just not sure how much of a difference. I'll try some of those suggestions and go from there. Hell, if worse comes to worse, I'll go the Talas direction next year, I am sure dropping the front end to 130mm on climbs will definitely keep the nose down.
I hear you guys about adjusting stem and bar combinations, but all in all, it seems like with those options, you are really only adjusting hand position. Understandably it does make a bit of a difference, I guess I'm just not sure how much of a difference. I'll try some of those suggestions and go from there. Hell, if worse comes to worse, I'll go the Talas direction next year, I am sure dropping the front end to 130mm on climbs will definitely keep the nose down.
not sure if you're talking to me, but i'm 5'-9 on a medium, if i got a large i wouldn't reach the pedalshssp said:Throw away that Long Stem. It is dead. If you need longer stem to get more weight up front on a 575, you either have a too small frame or you need to work on your technique... Never been happier than when I went for a 60mm stem a bit lower than the 90mm (which is as long as a stem can get before it turns into a Long Stem (R.I.P.)
. i am on a 140mm fork if that makes a difference. i'll stay in the 90-100 stem range, thanks for the advice (if it was for me).I came upon this thread after taking out my new ride with non-adjustable forks (2008/9? 26" rebas @ 100mm) I was wandering all over the place. One thing that helped me out quite a bit was moving my saddle rails as far forward as I could. This bike (RM Blizzard) has similar angles to my ETS-x, which has the talas, and man, as mentioned, what a difference lowering the front end makes! I'm going to try a slightly higher rise bar. Like you I ran through the same list of things to change, stem, bars, etc. I even tried playing with tire pressures.
It's like riding in the 90's again.
It's like riding in the 90's again.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
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