[RetroG]

Curious to know the following:

Height, inseam,type of frame, frame size, effective top tube length, stem length of your ride and how it works out for you. Also, do you have any freaky body characteristics like short arms, torso, legs etc. I'm trying to size a new frame. My current ride is too small, 17" frame w/22.2" ett. I'm just shy of 6' with a measured inseam of 33"

 

[Big K]

We're about the same..

in Cannondale, this is a "large".. there are a lot of variables involved including unique geometry of the bike and your own preference of riding position. I'd suggest you go to an LBS and talk with somebody who knows what they are doing.. they are usually good at trying to find the right fit. That said, generally speaking, you're probably looking at a "large" in whatever brand you want.. sounds like your current frame is way too small.

 

[Guyechka]

a little taller

I'm 6' 1" with a 34 1/2" inseam. I can (and probably should) stick with 20" frames with at least 24" TT lengths, but I don't. I have a 19", 19 1/2" and 20", all of which have 23" TTs. That means I'm riding in a more upright position, which I like. But I'm also shifting my weight around a lot. I see it as a compromise. I'd rather have a slightly smaller frame than be stretched out. Makes the bike more controllable.

Your predicament reminds me of when I bought a Fat Chance Yo Eddy in a medium size (17") and had to sell it a year later because it was just way too small. I lost a lot of money, but what was saddest was that I knew that was the best bike I would ever own. If only it had been the correct size. I learned my lesson!

 

[DakotaJockey]

I'm 6'1" with a 33" inseam, and I ride a 18.5" Giant NRS frame, but the NRS has a nearly 24" TT on the 18.5".
Someone 5'11" to 6'1", depending on upper torso length, should look for a 23.5" TT at the min.
Different manufacturers have diff. TT lengths. Base your decision on whether to go smaller or bigger on this, not standover.

 

[JmZ]

It's about the proportions.

I'm 5'11" / 6'0", but with a 30" inseam. I'm comfortable on bikes with a 22.5 inch top tube. Doesn't matter if it's a 15" or 17" bike. I know - I've got both.

I've had:
2 15"s (Jamis/Ventana)
1 16" (Univega)
2 17"s (Specialized, Specialized)
1 Medium (effectively a 18")(V-link)
3 18"s (Rocky, Schwinn, Schwinn)

And the ones that have fit best have been the 15-17" frames, but I also tend to longer stem lengths. Probably has something to do with starting riding in the very early 90's. I don't expect anyone else to fit to a bike properly by just copying my setup. Fit is annoyingly individualistic, and like the guy with the Fat Chance noted below... getting the right fit can make, or break, a bike. I've sold off my Specialized's, my V-Link, Schwinns and Rocky, all at least partially, due to fit.

JmZ

Curious to know the following:

Height, inseam,type of frame, frame size, effective top tube length, stem length of your ride and how it works out for you. Also, do you have any freaky body characteristics like short arms, torso, legs etc. I'm trying to size a new frame. My current ride is too small, 17" frame w/22.2" ett. I'm just shy of 6' with a measured inseam of 33"

 

[applegreenheckler]

get fit!!!!
A good bike shop will do a proper fit (measuring tools of some sort, not just saying yeah it looks right) for free or at a discounted rate with bike purchase. The shop I go to does the fit for free with bikes $1000 and up and for $35 on bikes under that. This is also true from the rest of the better bike shops in my area. A proper fit should take into account more than just height but also age, fitness level, flexability and how it is going to be ridden.

 

[carl1266]

I'm about your hight with a little shorter inseam (32.5). I recently built a HT with a 18'' frame (Access XCL). TT is 23'' and standover 28''. With a 120mm stem I feel very comfortable. A fit only tells you which size you should ride in theory. It does not take into consideration if you FEEL comfortable on the frame. In other words it can only point you in a direction but I wouldn't never buy a bike purely based on a fit. Maybe that's just me.

 

[Dwayne]

in Cannondale, this is a "large".. there are a lot of variables involved including unique geometry of the bike and your own preference of riding position. I'd suggest you go to an LBS and talk with somebody who knows what they are doing.. they are usually good at trying to find the right fit. That said, generally speaking, you're probably looking at a "large" in whatever brand you want.. sounds like your current frame is way too small.

Definitely see how a bike fits before buying one blind. For example, I'm pretty damn close to RetroG's measurements, and my medium Prophet felt much better than the large I tried (tried both on the trails first, too). Really comes down to personal preference sometimes.

 

[meloh1]

Actually the effective TT of the NRS is a tiny bit less than 23 1/4". I'm 6' 1 1/2" with a 34.5" cycling inseam and ride a medium NRS. Some people think it looks small but I'm very comfortable on the bike. Giant spec'd them with a fairly long stem (at least on mine). It approximates my road ride fairly well (23 1/2" TT). I agree with the others. Forget about the "size" of the bike and fit by the TT length.

 

[Yeti_Rider]

I'm 5'11"

Curious to know the following:

Height, inseam,type of frame, frame size, effective top tube length, stem length of your ride and how it works out for you. Also, do you have any freaky body characteristics like short arms, torso, legs etc. I'm trying to size a new frame. My current ride is too small, 17" frame w/22.2" ett. I'm just shy of 6' with a measured inseam of 33"

and my Medium Yeti ARC has an effective top tube length of 22.5" and I run a 130mm x 6 degree stem with flat bars. fits me just about perfectly.

YR

 

[SHIVER ME TIMBERS]

get fit!!!!
A good bike shop will do a proper fit (measuring tools of some sort, not just saying yeah it looks right) for free or at a discounted rate with bike purchase. The shop I go to does the fit for free with bikes $1000 and up and for $35 on bikes under that. This is also true from the rest of the better bike shops in my area. A proper fit should take into account more than just height but also age, fitness level, flexability and how it is going to be ridden.

yep I was thinking the same think...don't skip on this

 

[Guyechka]

get fit in front of the computer

You can also go to Wrench Science and take their fit analysis, which I thought was pretty accurate. You will look silly, however, jamming a book in your crotch and marking the measurement. Of course, the best way is to have someone at a shop do the measuring, since they are the ones with the expertise (usually). Doing it at home is so much fun, though! Plus, if you try to be as careful as possible with your measurements, you will end up with a good idea of where to begin.

 

[logbiter]

Curious to know the following:

Height, inseam,type of frame, frame size, effective top tube length, stem length of your ride and how it works out for you. Also, do you have any freaky body characteristics like short arms, torso, legs etc. I'm trying to size a new frame. My current ride is too small, 17" frame w/22.2" ett. I'm just shy of 6' with a measured inseam of 33"

Me: almost 6', 31" inseam.. so short legs and long torso.. long arms? hmm, take a 33-34" armed shirt.
current bikes that fit well- Santa Cruz Tazmon Large: ~23" effective TT, 150x15 stem & 1+" setback post... good standover @~28"
& a ~'97 20" norco TNT (~23.25 effective TT, similar frame to late 90's steel team, ~28.5" standover, w/ 140x17 stem & 1" setback post).
Since I've always ridden long stems, they don't bother me.. it took me years & a few bikes to figure out that I preferred a bike w/ long TT & even then like a seatpost w/ setback and long stem (by todays standards), but like JmZ, I've been riding mtn bikes a while, since '88 for me, so 130-135 stems are my standard (unless I can find a some sweet high rise 150ish stems, like my moots 140x17 & titec ti 150x15).