[ir12daveor]

Hey All,
I have a 5.5 Intense for just over 3 months now. I ride all mountain, occasionaly in bike parks, but usually quite rocky and/or rooty alpine trails. The bike has never been more then about 1 foot off the ground and I only weigh 160lbs so it hasn't had any serious abuse. I am loving the bike, but recently had the dreaded VPP creak start.

I took out the pivot bolts and the box link and cleaned the area around the bearings and pivot bolts as it says on the replacing the bearings guide on the intense website. I checked all the bearings that they rotated and all were stiff but eventually got all except one to rotate without much difficulty. One was still stiff and notchy but did move, so having read the thread about bearing myths and facts I decided that when the box link and pivot bolts were together it should be OK.

With everything clean and running relatively free, I greased and loctited the pivotbolts and reassembled the VPP link.

Now it says on the intense instructions that grease and loctite don't mix (obviously!), but if I grease the bolts and then insert them in through the slot on the boxlink and bearings some contamination is bound to occur. Is the loctite really necessary or do the two small allen key locknut's provide enough purchase to keep the pivot bolts from opening?

Secondly, I have reduced the creaking significantly by doing this, but there is a clicking sound from the area when I stand on the pedals and power. It doesn't seem to be there when climbing seated but only when I stand up and power. Does this mean I didn't grease the bearings enough? I put two lines of grease on the pivot bolts and then rotated them as I inserted them into the box link.

Should I have used more grease?
Is there other places that need to be greased?
How do I avoid contaminating the loctite if I use more grease?

I realise these are probably really dumb questions, but I don't want to keep taking the bike back to the dealer for what are probably very small issues.

Cheers for any advice anyone can give.

 

[Randalliser]

I'm going through exactly the same thing after 3 months. All bearings pretty much seized, awful cicking and creaking. The bike is never jetwashed and always well maintained. I freed up and cleaned/regreased the bearings but it still clicks and creaks, although it's slightly better... I didn't use threadlock and am relying on the grub screws. I've got new bearings coming under warranty so I'll fit them and see what happens - I'm really pissed off with this, it's not what you expect on a high end bike after three months use. If the new bearings don't cure it it's going back for a refund or replacement.

 

[DANSPANK]

I've had this issue on a Spider 29er. My problem seemed to stem from a specific bearing - the one on the non-drive side on the frame, just behind the crank, not the one on the rear traingle.

I greased it considerably but this didn't cure it. Finally I washed it thoroughly with WD40 and regreased it. It's definitely notchy and I'm going to request new bearings under warantly, but it did initially fix the issue - at least for the next ride or two.

I'm expecting the creak to return until I'm able to replace the bearings, and even then I'm expecting to check the area for dirt all the time... But I love riding this bike so much that I'll put up with that.

 

[ir12daveor]

While all the bearings are a little dodgy on mine, that non drive side one just on the bottom bracket side of the box link is exactly the one that is worst on mine!!!

I wonder what mechanism causes this!

 

[lil'stink]

The bearings on my 5.5 seized after about 20 rides. No hosing down or really muddy rides (although several very dusty ones). It sounds like you need to replace your bearings to get the creak to go away (assuming it isn't your cranks, pedals, etc.). You should be able to get them for less than $40. I think that the grease is more important than the loctite, especially with the c-clips (correct me if I am wrong).
Needless to say I am very dissapointed in the poor durability of this design, and will be ditching the frame at the end of the season. Even if I retrofit my bike with the grease ports I have no confidence that this will prolong the life of the bearings.

 

[DANSPANK]

Humph, the bearings aren't covered by the warranty - just so that you know.

 

[ebarker9]

While all the bearings are a little dodgy on mine, that non drive side one just on the bottom bracket side of the box link is exactly the one that is worst on mine!!!

I wonder what mechanism causes this!

That's the worst on my 6.6 as well. It creaks like crazy and is loose at the end of every ride. The non-drive side bolt where the linkage connects to the top tube is a close second...loose after every ride, but quiet. It's overdue for a rebuild though, so I'll see how things are after that.

 

[fatboy66]

I ride a 5.5 EVP for about 6 months and ride it maybe two hours a week.

After the last few rides it makes annoying noises when hammering on the pedals.
I really hate to work on my bike instead of riding it on nice days.
The bike has to serve me.
I know that a good design will take some maintenance but comparing it to my old 5 spot the intense 5.5 is rubbish in every way.

I rode some intense bikes before and i liked the old m1 (horst link) the most.

I think it is time for a change for me.

 

[BlueRidgeRider]

Bearings

This the second season on my 5.5 and I finally have some serious play in one of the bearings in the bottom linkage. It's not too bad, but it's noticable.
I had broken a few pivot bolts, but that was due to cheap grade steal not design. I ride my 5.5 pretty hard in the mountains, it's rocky and rooty here, and It's usually wet.
I really like my Intense frames but It seems that it may require a lot more maintenance to keep rolling.
I just hope I don't need to replace bearings on my Socom. That has been ok so far, and It's on it's second season as well.

 

[RacinJason]

I can show you how not to contaminate your loctite with grease.

To start you can grease the bolt not the opening. You only want to use a small amount.
Its more to keep the to metal from seizing to each other.
Then put a drop of loctite in the threads of the box link and let it tack up for a little while.
Doing it this way will not let you contaminate your loctite.
Te pivot should e tightened to 15 NM Then tighten the Set screw to lock the bolt in place. Then the E clip should be installed.
You should be set from there.

You also might want to check to make sure all of your parts are installed in the proper place.
The spacers must be in-between the frame and the box link for everything to work correctly. You also might want to make sure the crush sleeve is in the swing arm and the frame. This is found in the middle of the 2 bearings and it aids in side load and it also helps hold the inner race from spinning on the bolt.

I hope that helps you.
If you have any further questions please
Emial me @ [email protected]

J

Hey All,
I have a 5.5 Intense for just over 3 months now. I ride all mountain, occasionaly in bike parks, but usually quite rocky and/or rooty alpine trails. The bike has never been more then about 1 foot off the ground and I only weigh 160lbs so it hasn't had any serious abuse. I am loving the bike, but recently had the dreaded VPP creak start.

I took out the pivot bolts and the box link and cleaned the area around the bearings and pivot bolts as it says on the replacing the bearings guide on the intense website. I checked all the bearings that they rotated and all were stiff but eventually got all except one to rotate without much difficulty. One was still stiff and notchy but did move, so having read the thread about bearing myths and facts I decided that when the box link and pivot bolts were together it should be OK.

With everything clean and running relatively free, I greased and loctited the pivotbolts and reassembled the VPP link.

Now it says on the intense instructions that grease and loctite don't mix (obviously!), but if I grease the bolts and then insert them in through the slot on the boxlink and bearings some contamination is bound to occur. Is the loctite really necessary or do the two small allen key locknut's provide enough purchase to keep the pivot bolts from opening?

Secondly, I have reduced the creaking significantly by doing this, but there is a clicking sound from the area when I stand on the pedals and power. It doesn't seem to be there when climbing seated but only when I stand up and power. Does this mean I didn't grease the bearings enough? I put two lines of grease on the pivot bolts and then rotated them as I inserted them into the box link.

Should I have used more grease?
Is there other places that need to be greased?
How do I avoid contaminating the loctite if I use more grease?

I realise these are probably really dumb questions, but I don't want to keep taking the bike back to the dealer for what are probably very small issues.

Cheers for any advice anyone can give.